Loose subframe bolts

[Eddy]

When my subframe had creeped it didn't make any noises - it just drove terribly. Tramlining, ridiculous torque steer etc. It was a total pig of a thing.

http://www.vwwatercooled.org.au/f127/tramlining-excessive-torque-steer-32346-2.html

No clunks though

Hoyhoy.

Ya got to tell me Stuwey, did the cam sleeves help.

[s4mmie]

Not counting my chickens just yet, but tried to replicate the problem twice out the driveway (it would do it every time without fail) and no noise. I'll let the wife drive tonight and see what happens...

They weren't loose but I gave them a 1/4 to 1/2 turn more anyway and checked the drop links, all good.
I'll give it a few more times before I call it, but if it's fixed I'll be ordering the new bolts and lock tabs.

I have to give Jmac a call about his Cupra R bush kit as well as I noticed one is starting to split.
Should the arm bolt sit fairly central to the bush housing? Mine sit all over the place, just wondering how much movement is ok with the stock bushes?

[Stuwey]

Hoyhoy.

Ya got to tell me Stuwey, did the cam sleeves help.

The subframe has all been out since then, and went back together all ok. To be honest I've not fitted them yet, simply no time to myself, and no spare cash to pay anyone else to do it they're sitting here mocking me.

All in good time, when funds allow.

[kaanage]

Should the arm bolt sit fairly central to the bush housing? Mine sit all over the place, just wondering how much movement is ok with the stock bushes?

Check this video!

[noone]

This thread sparked a lot of interest quickly...

The cheap ones to check and the obvious ones are swaybar links, swaybar binding (although the stock one probably wont bind like the whiteline ones used to do for me). rear control arms look like crap if they are worn.

Strut top bushes are rubbish, I've been through 2 sets and have contemplated changing them again. I dont think they are up to wide tyres, wider tracking, uprated swaybars and the other geometry changes that come with dropping it.

My car does few kms (just about to hit 40K in my 2006), no issues with the subframe bolts that I know of, but my KW's would have gone in around 10K kms ago, so checked fairly recently really.

If you are serious about getting new bearings, get the tops as well. you can get it all pretty cheap from the UK. If we get a groupbuy togeather, I'll jump in.

Borrowed:
6N0 412 249C Is the top mount bearing.
6Q0 412 331 B Is the rubber top mount.
N 104 018 01 Is the hex nut for the top of the strut.
N 101 277 07 Is the hex bolts that hold the top mount to the car

[Stuwey]

Cars only got 40000ks on it...

Well I'm well over double that....

[kaanage]

Well, my throttle transition clunk has gone after my mechanic replaced the passeger front wheel bearing on the diagnosis from Burwin Volkswagen. He doesn't think there was anything wrong with the wheel bearing but I'm glad the clunk is gone and the old bearing can be a spare for when I kill one of the others.

The funny thing is that the clunk was less noticable after I got the car back from Burwin VW even though the service manager said they didn't do anything - I wonder if they tightened the hub nut a bit while checking the car.

[s4mmie]

Good to hear mate, I'll have to remember that one as I think I have the same clunk.

Well, I've left it for a bit as I didn't want to call it too early...
Tightening the subframe bolts has definitely improved the situation, even the missus said the car was unusually quiet.
So I'll be ordering the replacement bolts and lock tabs which are these for anyone interested:



Or these:

IN STOCK: DBC Tuning-Wholelsale Pricing On OEM VW/AUDI Parts



But... I don't think it's completely cured the problem. So I'll be getting the strut top bearings, LCA bushes and checking the hub bearings/bolts.

[csimpson]

Ha, wow, those DBC bolts are $10, but $107 shipping.

I'd be definitely keen for a cheap place to buy a set of bolts and lock tabs, and any installation info if you've already found it. The clunking is driving me crazy.

[s4mmie]

Haha, I think if you emailed them postage would be more reasonable. I'm going to give VW parts a call and see if they can get them in with the part #'s listed. Here's a thread I found helpful in my searches:
Those With Suspension / Subframe Popping or Clunking - VW GTI Forum / VW Rabbit Forum / VW R32 Forum / VW Golf Forum - Golfmkv.com

[csimpson]

They're $14US at ECS Tuning: http://www.ecstuning.com/News/MKV_Su...cer/ES2102460/

I will throw in 2 with my next order of things.

[Bflat]

Well, my throttle transition clunk has gone after my mechanic replaced the passeger front wheel bearing on the diagnosis from Burwin Volkswagen. He doesn't think there was anything wrong with the wheel bearing but I'm glad the clunk is gone and the old bearing can be a spare for when I kill one of the others.

The funny thing is that the clunk was less noticable after I got the car back from Burwin VW even though the service manager said they didn't do anything - I wonder if they tightened the hub nut a bit while checking the car.

Greg, did you have a slight 'grinding'/'abrasive' noise coming from the left wheel (the one with the dud bearing?)

The reason I ask is because Adam (Hazrd) had me listen to his front right which we may think is the bearing going (mainly on hard left turning).

??

[kaanage]

Nah, there was absolutely no noise at all besides the clunk (well, there were the usual cabin rattles and buzzes + the diesel growl) and the old bearing is as smooth as silk when rotating it which is why my mechanic doubts it was actually the bearing causing the clunk. I could sell it, I guess, as it was over $200 for the new one.

[Bflat]

Nah, there was absolutely no noise at all besides the clunk (well, there were the usual cabin rattles and buzzes + the diesel growl) and the old bearing is as smooth as silk when rotating it which is why my mechanic doubts it was actually the bearing causing the clunk. I could sell it, I guess, as it was over $200 for the new one.

Hmmmm, it's interesting that yours made no noise at all.....

I'm still trying to work out what my 'clunk' is when i'm reversing out of my driveway each morning......I'm thinking the strut top mounts/bearings are stuffed....I'm gonna be lazy here and ask where the best place to get new gear is for such a problem?

[csimpson]

Bflat: I've done a fair bit of reading on a lot of subframe/LCA/bearing/strut-mount issues recently. I'm going to make a new thread tonight and round-up all of the information, possible solutions and store links that I've used thus far in hunting things down.