Best coilovers for application

[seangti]

I'd be running quite a bit more pressure in the front than 32-34, it'l help with tyre wear and stop the sidewalls/shoulders being worn out prematurely. Also makes the car a little more predictable/progressive on the limit. As Karl suggested ~40psi in the front and around 36psi in the rears. I have ran up to 44/40psi split, but was a bit too skittish. I'll have a rear sway bar going on this weekend as I agree with your experience. Though next track day isn't till August to give it a work out. (and those pressure are on cold tyres)

but we may be going off track for the intent of this thread.

[vwthunder]

I have ran up to 44/40psi split, but was a bit too skittish. . (and those pressure are on cold tyres)

So when hot they go up about 8psi or 6, so that would make it 50psi or over ouch

[leitch]

To those of you who have installed your own coilovers..

I have a set of V1s coming in a week or so.. Am I going to need spring compressors to get my stock rear springs out of their seats? Or will removing the dampers drop the rear beam enough to just pull them out?

[Blitzen]

To those of you who have installed your own coilovers.. I have a set of V1s coming in a week or so.. Am I going to need spring compressors to get my stock rear springs out of their seats? Or will removing the dampers drop the rear beam enough to just pull them out?

No, you won't need them for the rear...

[s4mmie]

Thread revival.

I'm about to throw my hard-earned at some KW V1's.
Last minute questions. I thought about going to the Bilstein shocks with spring combo or a 'Cup' kit all of which seemed to be well matched components. As already covered in this thread, any setup is still a coil and a shock absorber so what I want to know is:
Will the ride from the KW V1s be as good(comfortable) as a matched kit like the H&R cup kit at the same height.

I'm only going the coil-over route so I have the option to adjust the ride height. I know I'll only want around 35-40mm drop, but, still having the option to adjust will be nice and worth the extra dollars, IF the ride comfort level is similar.

[Preen59]

You should find the ride to be quite comparable, if not better.


KW have twin tube dampers, which means they have separate high and low speed valving for bump and rebound. This means that while they can be firm when you push the car into a corner, they can also soak up the bumps.

[s4mmie]

Thanks Chris, good to know.
Any updates on my coils/adapters?

[noone]

Sam,

Lots of options, you can also look on Polo UK forum and Seat Cupra forum for opinions.

Lots of variables, lots of things will affect the ride comfort, wheels, tyres, changes to geometry,sway bars, etc.

I'd consider doing the top hats, bearings and control arm bushes at the same time.

Sorry if I'm covering what you already know.

[s4mmie]

More information is better than no information
Think I'll stick with the KW's, nobody has anything bad to say about them really.
I'd kick myself later for not getting them for the adjustability...
See how I go.

[Preen59]

Thanks Chris, good to know.
Any updates on my coils/adapters?

Hahaha. "Shipping Monday", I have been told. Never can trust these damn north americans, though.

[Preen59]

Think I'll stick with the KW's.

Smart move.

But, I guess i'm a bit biased.

[kaanage]

FK Konigsport and Silverline X coilovers have adjustable rebound damping (Koni so they're not cheapie no-name) if you want even more adjustability for the same sort of money.

Just throwing out there as an option.

[kaanage]

KW have twin tube dampers, which means they have separate high and low speed valving for bump and rebound. This means that while they can be firm when you push the car into a corner, they can also soak up the bumps.

The twin tubes are for the not for separate damping valving - it's the construction KW choose to use (along with most other damper manufacturers) to allow for the volume of the piston rod displacing the oil when the damper is compressed (and vice versa when it is extended).

Twin tube dampers have the damper shaft connecting to the damping piston in an inner tube and the fixed end of the damper has a connection path (holes) to an outer tube which is only partially filled with oil so on compression, the oil displaced by the shaft flows into the gas space (all quality dampers have this space pressurised to increase the foaming temperature of the oil).
Monotube dampers use a 2nd separator piston to separate the oil in the fixed end from a gas reservoir which compresses as the shaft intrudes on compression.

See KW damper basics /// optimal performance and outstanding driving dynamics, these are the characteristics of a KW damper

In theory, the monotube design allows for greater damping control purely due to the large area for valving. In practice, both systems work equally well as the more expensive twin tube dampers (including those made by KW) have the rebound damping valves at the path connecting the inner and outer tubes to increase the area for the complex (primary operation) valves - it's not double as the bypass valves still require area for oil flow. Like any good marketing statement, in the above link, KW overstate the disadvantage of the opposing design (the higher gas pressure) - it only acts over a very small area (the shaft cross-section).

All quality dampers also have different high and low speed compression damping rates but only off road dampers (and really expensive ones at that) have separate high and low speed rebound rates (and it's not needed for road use, either).

[s4mmie]

I dont like tooo many options Good to know though
I just want something I can set and forget, not wonder if I've got them on the best settings all the time, it would drive me crazy! (little bit of OCD kicking in )

[noone]

Yeah, I get you. What we don't want is to say, yeah, that's the way to go, then you find them too stiff.

Weitec and KW's are supposed to be very similar, not a soft ride, but I have lots of the other variables I mentioned.