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  • #31
    38 does wonders to your tyre wear too

    thumbs up for that one lol
    What’s behind you doesn’t matter..

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    • #32
      Originally posted by fuzion View Post
      38 does wonders to your tyre wear too

      thumbs up for that one lol
      It also helps if the tires have stiff sidewalls, I've had problems with tires in the past with weak sidewalls, too much give is annoying.

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      • #33
        So after considering my options moving forward, I've decided to go for something different. Could be a V8, 2seater or something else...
        I've listed my car for sale for $20k, see how it goes.

        For anyone interested, recent updates:
        Installed catch can for 1000kms, collected nothing, so removed.
        Found QFM pads to be noisy combination with 312mm setup, so now running Bendix Ultra (quiet and good for non-track work).
        Being serviced today ahead of sale, will be looking toward a detailing if interest is low.

        Happy for anyone wanting a view to PM me, I'm on here most days more than once...
        Location: Sydney, Lower Nth Shore (St Leonards).

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        • #34
          Get a Honda.

          DC2R or DC5R. Good for track, good for street, good for commuting, good on fuel consumption, easy to work with, great engineering, reasonable to insure

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          • #35
            You dont want to part out your car lol

            So many goodies, sorry to see you sell it, you put a lot of time, work and $$$ into it
            MODS- TOO MANY

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            • #36
              Originally posted by pog View Post
              Get a Honda.

              DC2R or DC5R. Good for track, good for street, good for commuting, good on fuel consumption, easy to work with, great engineering, reasonable to insure
              And become another statistic on the road for the slowest drivers that hold up peak hr traffic... if speed kills, save lives and buy a honda
              2016 Golf R, APR Stage 1
              2010 Polo GTI 9n3, 4 Program APR Tune, PD160, White line front and rear sway bar

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              • #37
                I may part it out, I think it's worth what I'm asking, but if I strip out some of the gear... I'll wait and see...

                $20k for a fast Polo, worth a test drive I'd say...

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                • #38
                  I'd say for $20k you'd have to get someone who knows that what you've done with the Polo is quality. Most people will see the others on sale for a few K cheaper and be happy with that, or want to buy a stockie and modify it themselves.

                  Good luck with your sale Noone, sad to see it go
                  MY2008 VW Polo GTi / GIAC Tune / Forge FMIC / Forge 007 DV / N75 Race / BMC OTA / KW V1 Coilovers / Whiteline Front&Rear Swaybars + Toe-In Shim / Weichers Front&Rear Strut Braces / Full Non-Res Milltek Exhaust / 17" Bora Sport

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                  • #39
                    Originally posted by flat6 View Post
                    And become another statistic on the road for the slowest drivers that hold up peak hr traffic... if speed kills, save lives and buy a honda
                    I doubt you have driven one, especially the DC2R which is as good as a FWD hatch gets.

                    If you're worried about speed, my STOCK Clio 172 is only marginally behind my GIAC'd 9N3 Polo GTI in a straight line... but kills it around the bends. That said, you notice hills, and you do notice when you're caught in the wrong gear.

                    But yeah, high revving NA hatches aren't for everybody... but a chipped 9N3 with only 150-165kw (depending on supporting mods) lugging around 1190kg isn't exactly 'quick' in a straight line compared to just about any other modern performance car.
                    Previous Rides: Polo GTI, Mx5 10AE, MY05 WRX WRP10, Renault Sport Clio 172
                    Current Ride: Evo 8 MR, Fabia MK3

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                    • #40
                      Probably due to the Polo not being a performance car.

                      Can we keep this thread to my car please?

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                      • #41
                        Originally posted by break View Post
                        I doubt you have driven one, especially the DC2R which is as good as a FWD hatch gets.
                        Sorry i didnt clarify, its mainly civic & accord drivers, Ive driven preludes, they got go but lack class. Problem with honda is the brand name its self has been tarnished by nannas and riceboys and honestly the looks of their current cars, where do the AA batteries go..

                        The polo is no race car, its a fast comfortable hot hatch that passes by relatively un-noticed, people think its a golf, its purpose is to get you around town, fast! and it does it a lot more comfortably than most comparable cars like.

                        The Clio 172, great little car but I bet its not as comfortable as the polo around town
                        2016 Golf R, APR Stage 1
                        2010 Polo GTI 9n3, 4 Program APR Tune, PD160, White line front and rear sway bar

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                        • #42
                          Car is looking good mate. (hint to get it back on topic)
                          Originally posted by seangti
                          The price of the car rarely indicates driver ability/lap time.

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                          • #43
                            Ben forgot to ask do you have a pic of the repainted centre console or did you just repaint it the same colour?
                            Originally posted by seangti
                            The price of the car rarely indicates driver ability/lap time.

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                            • #44
                              I don't seem to have 1 on Photobucket, I'll take one...

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                              • #45
                                So, I'm thinking of 2 new options, be interested to hear what people thought;

                                Opt 1: Swap my Polo for another unmodded Polo (plus cash) and sell that one (prob easier)
                                Opt 2: Part it out.

                                Realisticly, I'm only going to get a swap + cash on here.

                                For the parts, I was thinking something like:
                                Seat intake: $150
                                FMIC: $700
                                Splitter: $100
                                Rear Sway: $150
                                Strut Bracce: $100
                                312mm brakes (Carriers, calipers, rotors, pads and spare pads): $300 + swap for stock
                                I could sell the Coilovers, front sway for $500 if someone could give me their stock coils, shocks and do the install...

                                All up, if I could get these prices, I'd have a stockish car with still some nice mods, APR chip, etc for $2000, meaning getting $18k for a closer to stock car would likely be easier. I'm happy to spend a day working on my car to get it back to normal or something like stockish...

                                Thoughts?

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