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GTI Running in tips - Post rebuild

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  • #16
    ^ good point Brad about 5th and 6th gear.

    The worst thing you could do in the Polo GTI is let it labour around in 6th or 7th gear at 60kph at very low revs....not good for an engine full stop, let alone a freshly rebuilt one. Use the paddles on your steering wheel / manual mode and keep the engine in a higher RPM range as much as you can. Load it up (up hills etc) to seal the piston rings, and vary the revs as much as you can (eg don't sit on a freeway for hours on end at 2,500rpm).

    IF you do have to drive on the freeway, then at least drop the car back a gear or two, raise the revs and vary your speed a bit. If you slow down (traffic dependant of course) to about 70-80kph and then give the throttle a nice squeeze back up to 110kph then that would be good too. No need to rev the freckle out of it, but use the revs.
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    • #17
      Originally posted by dening View Post
      Hi All,

      So my GTI is in right now getting it's rebuild to sort the oil consumption, this is a rebuild they are calling "base engine" replacement from what I have been told.

      Just wondering if anyone who has had this done can tell me what running in method might have been successful for them following this fix?

      I know it's still a bit hit and miss with these things, but I was thinking I'll just to drive relatively easily in manual, varying revs and let the engine warm up before giving it any real load.

      Thanks in any advance for any help.
      Did the dealership replace a new lower block or they rebuild the engine? If rebuild, did they rehone the cylinder walls?If they did, what stone grit did they use? IF replace a factory lower block then less worries and just drive up a mountain varying the rpm between the gears in M mode. Use engine brake to cruise down the mountain and finally straight to a workshop to replace the engine oil and filter out with OEM oil or Mobil 1 5w30ESP(my personal recommendation).

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      • #18
        Originally posted by kevinctr View Post
        Did the dealership replace a new lower block or they rebuild the engine? If rebuild, did they rehone the cylinder walls?If they did, what stone grit did they use? IF replace a factory lower block then less worries and just drive up a mountain varying the rpm between the gears in M mode. Use engine brake to cruise down the mountain and finally straight to a workshop to replace the engine oil and filter out with OEM oil or Mobil 1 5w30ESP(my personal recommendation).
        Why you're asking? I'm sure they've done it properly.
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        • #19
          You can't hone bores on late model VW's as they have a silicon compound coating the sleeve. Honing the bore ruins the coating and kills the engine.
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          • #20
            It was complete base engine replacement, so have been doing a variety of driving to load the engine up a little and not using automatic to get some varying revs.

            I've done a few hundred kms now so I'm just going to drive how I want, I really doubt I'm going to make a huge difference now. If they've fixed it they've fixed it, if not they can do it again.

            Sent from my GT-I9197 using Tapatalk

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            • #21
              Originally posted by Snail Style View Post
              You can't hone bores on late model VW's as they have a silicon compound coating the sleeve. Honing the bore ruins the coating and kills the engine.
              This is why I reckon a re-ring is pretty ineffectual. Not enough bore roughness to force the rings to bed in. Used to have the same issue on BMW motorbikes with Nickasil bores. The fix was to relign them with ci/steel inserts. There was a bit of meat to play with though and I doubt modern engines allow that luxury.
              carandimage The place where Off-Topic is On-Topic
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              • #22
                Irrespective of what others have said here, it doesn't matter how you drive it initially, if the tolerances on everything are still too open, then you will still end up with an oil-burner.

                I flogged mine in the first 200kms, no oil consumption issues. Others have babied theirs and had no oil consumption issues.

                It's just luck of the draw.
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                • #23
                  Originally posted by gavs View Post
                  Irrespective of what others have said here, it doesn't matter how you drive it initially, if the tolerances on everything are still too open, then you will still end up with an oil-burner.

                  I flogged mine in the first 200kms, no oil consumption issues. Others have babied theirs and had no oil consumption issues.

                  It's just luck of the draw.
                  In the end that's the conclusion I came to. I'm driving it the way I need to, the car should be able to do that...and if it can't I will part ways with it.

                  Sent from my GT-I9197 using Tapatalk

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                  • #24
                    For every tough luck story there is also a successful one....so I tend to agree with Gavs and besides, its not like these engines have zero run in from a manufacturing standpoint.
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