What cheap mods should I do first? (Polo GTi)

[Bassik]

Hey guys,

So I finally bought myself a Polo Gti, must say it's a big change from my DC2. The handing is great but I wouldn't go as far as to say I feel entirely strapped "in". Power is definitively there and gear changing seem fine. It's my first Euro car so I'm still reading the manual and seeing what all the light buttons do lol.

So let me know what's the first mod you guys got done and this would be in relation to styling and performance. I don't want to spend thousands but I don't mind spending a bit. I didn't get Xenon's (wishes I did) so I'm looking for cheaper option.

Oh another thing does anyone know if you can change the void sunglasses container above head to the same as the Golfs?

[The_Hawk]

There is the usual little updates like NAV and RVC on the interior for extra functionality. You could also consider a button to open your garage (if you have an electric garage, or installing one if you don't ).

Extra guages like boost might be up your alley...

Wheels to personalise your ride or painting brake calipers...

A tune is relatively cheap and effective otherwise it's onto things like exhaust/intake/downpipe... and of course suspension mods.

...neon/LED under the car...

[gavs]

To answer your last question first, I don't think so, it's different console.

The first mod I did was new brake pads because I think the factory ones are rubbish. After that rear swaybar, currently in the process of working on an RCD510+reverse camera+tv+digital gauges install, after that it will be exhaust, intercooler, tune, tyres....

The cheapest mod you could do that gives the biggest instant improvement is a swaybar but the one I recommend most is better brake pads.

[Bassik]

To answer your last question first, I don't think so, it's different console.

The first mod I did was new brake pads because I think the factory ones are rubbish. After that rear swaybar, currently in the process of working on an RCD510+reverse camera+tv+digital gauges install, after that it will be exhaust, intercooler, tune, tyres....

The cheapest mod you could do that gives the biggest instant improvement is a swaybar but the one I recommend most is better brake
pads.

I also think the most important is a sway bar, I'm feeling the need to lower down that body roll. Any you recommend? Brake pads will come when I'm just about due for new ones.

[MJKooLio]

Front Sway bar? Whats the best option to buy in Aus?

Also, which are the best HID headlamp globes? Keen to get some

---------- Post added at 09:59 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:49 PM ----------

These good?

H7 Xenon HID Headlight Conversion Kit for Can-Bus Systems on Newer...

5000k?

[gavs]

Any you recommend? Brake pads will come when I'm just about due for new ones.

Front Sway bar? Whats the best option to buy in Aus?

I'm running whiteline and it's a rear. Not much point in upgrading the front swaybar without also adding a rear as you will just increase the tendancy to understeer. You might remove some of the body roll, sure. But it doesn't mean you will be able to carry higher corner speeds.

For the front you can look at Eibach, KW, Whiteline etc, most will have a reseller locally, otherwise, look through the european based tuning shops and ask them to ship to Oz.

Front Sway bar? Whats the best option to buy in Aus?

Also, which are the best HID headlamp globes? Keen to get some

---------- Post added at 09:59 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:49 PM ----------

These good?

H7 Xenon HID Headlight Conversion Kit for Can-Bus Systems on Newer...

5000k?

Um, no they're not because they're illegal. The best xenon/HID option you have was to have ordered it on the car. I'm sorry to sound like a grouch but if there is one thing I cannot stand, it's people who put these kits in reflector-lamp headlights that have never been engineered to have the correct cutoff points etc for HID globes. It's dazzling and blinding for other motorists and is (in my opinion) biggoted and dangerous for other road users. If you want better light output, look at some high-quality aftermarket globes from someone like Osram or Philips.

It's a pet hate of mine and why I spent the extra $1600 as an option because more and more I am seeing idiot 4x4 owners with these kits installed and I would really like to take to them with a Louisville Slugger, problem is a can't bloody see to smack them with it.

Try looking into the sun for 10 seconds, then you will get the impression of what other road users deal with....

Rant over

[Bassik]

I'm running whiteline and it's a rear. Not much point in upgrading the front swaybar without also adding a rear as you will just increase the tendancy to understeer. You might remove some of the body roll, sure. But it doesn't mean you will be able to carry higher corner speeds.

For the front you can look at Eibach, KW, Whiteline etc, most will have a reseller locally, otherwise, look through the european based tuning shops and ask them to ship to Oz.



Um, no they're not because they're illegal. The best xenon/HID option you have was to have ordered it on the car. I'm sorry to sound like a grouch but if there is one thing I cannot stand, it's people who put these kits in reflector-lamp headlights that have never been engineered to have the correct cutoff points etc for HID globes. It's dazzling and blinding for other motorists and is (in my opinion) biggoted and dangerous for other road users. If you want better light output, look at some high-quality aftermarket globes from someone like Osram or Philips.

It's a pet hate of mine and why I spent the extra $1600 as an option because more and more I am seeing idiot 4x4 owners with these kits installed and I would really like to take to them with a Louisville Slugger, problem is a can't bloody see to smack them with it.

Try looking into the sun for 10 seconds, then you will get the impression of what other road users deal with....

Rant over

Nice one Gav. I have to say I agree and not to mention aftermarket HID kits just don't do it's justice. I'm looking at just getting standard high quality halogen globes, most probably Phillips. I had no choice in the say buying second hand, I would have liked the option.

With the sway bar does it make a noticeable difference? I really feel the difference between my DC2 and the new Polo. I'm kinda having second thoughts as my driving experience has changed a lot.

Should have gotten a Golf!!!!!!

[gavs]

It depends on how far you push the car, in the GTI I found there to be less of a difference compared o my mk4 golf because the limit to where you really notice the difference is much higher in the polo, even though bar a few tweaks, the suspension is very very similar. Is it worth it though? If you were in Melbourne I'd show you a few roads that clearly show the differences between having and not having the rear anti-roll bar

[Bassik]

It depends on how far you push the car, in the GTI I found there to be less of a difference compared o my mk4 golf because the limit to where you really notice the difference is much higher in the polo, even though bar a few tweaks, the suspension is very very similar. Is it worth it though? If you were in Melbourne I'd show you a few roads that clearly show the differences between having and not having the rear anti-roll bar

I appreciate that gavs, however as you mention I am not in Melbourne. I realistic only want it if it will noticeably reduce the body roll. I like to enjoy taking corners hard, not all the time but at least when I feel like it.

---------- Post added at 11:49 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:48 AM ----------

There is the usual little updates like NAV and RVC on the interior for extra functionality. You could also consider a button to open your garage (if you have an electric garage, or installing one if you don't ).

I'm interested in the garage door button how can I get my hands on one?

[kaanage]

I realistic only want it if it will noticeably reduce the body roll.

You will need both a stiffer front and a rear anti-roll bar to reduce the roll and keep the car balanced. The rear is a simple install while the front requires the subframe to be removed.

But is it the transition roll (which slows the steering response) that is the issue or the final 'set' that the car takes in a long sweeper?
If the latter, then a stiffer front anti-roll bar + a rear anti-roll bar will be needed (or stiffer suspension - both springs and dampers as stiffer springs alone is a BAD idea).
If the former is the issue, then you could find that upgrading to stiffer dampers could also improve the transient response (but the final 'set' will still be the same).

[Bassik]

You will need both a stiffer front and a rear anti-roll bar to reduce the roll and keep the car balanced. The rear is a simple install while the front requires the subframe to be removed.

But is it the transition roll (which slows the steering response) that is the issue or the final 'set' that the car takes in a long sweeper?
If the latter, then a stiffer front anti-roll bar + a rear anti-roll bar will be needed (or stiffer suspension - both springs and dampers as stiffer springs alone is a BAD idea).
If the former is the issue, then you could find that upgrading to stiffer dampers could also improve the transient response (but the final 'set' will still be the same).

Sorry I'm not entirely sure what you are saying?

The issue is that when taking corners I feel the car stick (which isn't the issue) to the road but as a result I feel myself (the drive) getting pulled over on each corner. To extremes some would say it's like driving a boat. In relation to my DC2 I felt nothing it was like the car was on rails no body roll whatsoever.

A mate from work reckons I wouldn't be able to get the same driving experience as they are two entirely different cars with different chassis's. I'm starting to think he is right...!!! Problem I would like to be able to reduce the body roll if it can be done.
Thankz

[gavs]

What kaanage is saying is that there are 2 types of body roll, the initial roll which happens when you first turn into a corner and then there is the roll that is the initial difference between the car reacting after your steering inputs.

To try and compare the 2 is impossible though, you are talking about a car that had extra spot welds, reinforced shock mounts, reinforced chassis areas with integrated bracing across shock towers. Include factory fitted front and rear anti roll bars, (please correct if wrong) double wishbone suspension at the rear and rose-jointed suspension links on roll bars instead of bushes.

The GTI is macpherson on strut front, torsion beam rear, rubber bushed shock mounts, single front anti roll bar, rubber bushed suspension links.

To get the same effect, what I would do is this and no, it won't be cheap.
Coilovers that are custom tunable like KW v3 to get the compression and rebound sorted. Add front and rear anti roll bars, minimum 24mm diameter, stock front is 22mm from memory.
Replace rubber anti roll bar bushes with polyurethane.
Replace front control arm bushes with polyurethane.
Replace rear control arm bushes with solid-bonded rubber.
Replace torsion beam bushes with high-duro polyurethane.
Rear upper stress brace.
Front lower stress brace.

Then, if still not sorted:
Weld-in rear stress brace.
Seam weld all panel joints.
Weld-in top tower brace.

If still not sorted, buy a lotus.

[MJKooLio]

Didn't know guys! Sorry.

[Bassik]

Ok wow that sounds to expensive. Maybe I have to get over he fact they are completely different?

I must say I don't mind if there not entirely the same.

[kaanage]

I'm guessing that the Polo has rather lower NVH levels than then Integra at the moment - ie quite a step up in refinement. The mods that gavs has rightly listed as being required to make the cars remotely comparable would make the Polo buzzing, shaking, droning a pain in the a$$ to live with.

To reduce the steady state roll, start with the heavier front anti-roll bar and add one to the rear. At the same time, change the front anti-roll bar mounts to the polyureathane ones and then evaluate if that's enough.

It shouldn't affect the ride too much and will also be cheaper than the coilovers (or stiffer springs + dampers) which is the next step (lowering with these will reduce roll as bit as well as the increased roll stiffness).

After that, start looking at the bushes and then the braces.

Most of all, have fun with the car (and the best place is the track )