New R36 Owner

[Matt86]

Hey guys,

Have an R36 that I am picking up within the next two weeks.
I was a regular on OzAudi for my B5 A4 1.8T quattro which I still have. However this is my first VW..

Have been looking at B8 S4's and R36 Passats for some time and ultimately the R36 won as it was far cheaper and I wanted a wagon.

It has no service history.. But everything felt fine and I got it for a cheap price. No smoke out of the exhaust, no lack of power and best of all no timing chain rattle from a cold start! It also has some modifications that suggest that it's likely been well looked after in it's previous life but likely has some issues as well (I was able to run some VCDS) before making the deposit.





I will get some more photos of the front brakes when I get the car and take the wheel off so I can determine what they actually are.. Obviously they're AP Racing but they don't make an R36 kit so likely off another car?

It also has the GruppeM Carbon intake that I may sell.. I have a stock airbox that I can use to pass roadworthy and may just keep it.

Also has what appears to be This

Now it has 165,xxxk's. I know that I should expect the timing chain will likely need doing within a year or so of driving and planning on replacing the tensioner as soon as possible, as well as a Haldex service once I pass the roadworthy and likely the box and brake fluids for good measure.

Also looking for some nice looking/priced rims between Adelaide and Melbourne as I'll be driving it back to Tasmania in around two weeks that and a drivers side door card in good condition as well as some of the "trunk" trim that is scratched up.

I've also attached the log, which shows that 99% of the issues with the car are due to a flat battery which VCDS wouldn't let me clear without registering the car..? Looks like the only real "issue" was the P000B - Slow Response which happened once at 159,012km which being once I assume was a hiccup? Am genuinely after some thoughts on that as I cannot find anything about it online only the intake cam having a slow response.

All of the other errors are "voltage too low" or "fault in basic settings" - in relation to the front window regs and a short to ground on a headlight which is being replaced.

012408 - Throttle Control 
               P3078 - 002 - Airflow at Idle too Low - Intermittent
             Freeze Frame:
                    Fault Status: 00110010
                    Fault Priority: 0
                    Fault Frequency: 1
                    Reset counter: 255
                    Mileage: 124109 km
                    Time Indication: 0
                    Date: 2020.08.30
                    Time: 10:32:57

             Freeze Frame:
                    RPM: 656 /min
                    Load: 27.4 %
                    Speed: 0.0 km/h
                    Temperature: 87.0°C
                    Temperature: 24.0°C
                    Absolute Pres.: 970.0 mbar
                    Voltage: 13.335 V

000011 - Camshaft Positioner (Bank 1 Exhaust) 
               P000B - 008 - Slow Response - Intermittent
             Freeze Frame:
                    Fault Status: 00101000
                    Fault Priority: 0
                    Fault Frequency: 1
                    Reset counter: 255
                    Mileage: 159012 km
                    Time Indication: 0
                    Date: 2021.11.12
                    Time: 02:49:03

             Freeze Frame:
                    RPM: 1160 /min
                    Load: 20.4 %
                    Speed: 37.0 km/h
                    Temperature: 34.0°C
                    Temperature: 12.0°C
                    Absolute Pres.: 1020.0 mbar
                    Voltage: 14.097 V

009488 - ECM/PCM Power Relay Sense Circuit 
               P2510 - 001 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
             Freeze Frame:
                    Fault Status: 00100001
                    Fault Priority: 0
                    Fault Frequency: 1
                    Reset counter: 255
                    Mileage: 165281 km
                    Time Indication: 0

             Freeze Frame:
                    RPM: 0 /min
                    Load: 0.0 %
                    Speed: 0.0 km/h
                    Temperature: -40.0°C
                    Temperature: -40.0°C
                    Absolute Pres.: 0.0 mbar
                    Voltage: 0.000 V

000256 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70) 
               P0100 - 004 - Supply Voltage - Intermittent
             Freeze Frame:
                    Fault Status: 00100100
                    Fault Priority: 0
                    Fault Frequency: 1
                    Reset counter: 255
                    Mileage: 0 km
                    Time Indication: 0

             Freeze Frame:
                    RPM: 0 /min
                    Load: 0.0 %
                    Speed: 0.0 km/h
                    Temperature: 37.0°C
                    Temperature: 27.0°C
                    Absolute Pres.: 1000.0 mbar
                    Voltage: 0.000 V

[prn31]

What year model is your R36? The newer models (MY10 onwards) seem to have less issues with timing chains. There was a guy on the forum who had problems with cam adjusters, which turned into a money pit. Have a look at this thread:
Cam adjuster issues 2010 R36

I would probably get it checked out by a VW specialist as a precaution. It could be nothing or it could come back to bite you.

[Matt86]

What year model is your R36? The newer models (MY10 onwards) seem to have less issues with timing chains. There was a guy on the forum who had problems with cam adjusters, which turned into a money pit. Have a look at this thread:
Cam adjuster issues 2010 R36

I would probably get it checked out by a VW specialist as a precaution. It could be nothing or it could come back to bite you.

I see..

The vehicle has dealership warranty for a month or so. I plan to get it and clear the code and see if it comes back. Worst case I can book it in and get a flight back to Melbourne from Adelaide and grab the car another time..

The number of occurences is once and it was over 5,000km ago. No dash lights at all and no codes were cleared before I got it and it wouldn't let me clear it without registering which I should have done..

It's a 2010.5 with the newer seats, etc
The VIN plate states that it was built in the second month of 2010.
If worst comes to worst I will get my mechanic and myself to replace the cam adjusters if needed when it's back here. I will have my cable with me and be scanning it throughout the trip/over a few days to see if anything pops up that is serious.

I should likely get it checked if it comes back, I need to find a suitable VW Specialist in Adelaide for that though. Spoke with someone from a specialist that was smaller. I again do not want to touch anything major until I get it home if it seems ok as it will have dealer warranty. That will become irrelevant once I am in TAS as I will have to change a few things and I won't be paying a mechanic money to do any of that :p (Things like an intake, etc as it has the GruppeM intake which is illegal here)

[sn809]

You can try a few guys, @transporter comes to mind in Adelaide. I would trust him with my car

[Matt86]

Matt's R36 Wagon

So bit of an update with this as it's been a long time.

Decided to be a bit more vocal in the community here rather then just be someone who lurks to buy/sell stuff and going to make this my "build" or more realistically ownership thread.

Car was damaged during shipping and nobody took responsibility.. Great





Have replaced all discs and pads with Bedix Ultimate in the front and Swag for the rear (Swag were very cheap).

Sad to say these aren't the worst pads that I've seen..






Removed the AP's unfortunately as (at the time) the wheels just didn't clear them and it was too much for rotors and pads (ultimately I could have done it but I don't race the car).

Bought a sub and amp and had a change of mind - oops

"Serviced" the K&N Filter for the GruppeM Intake, I do like this but I can't say I'd pay $900 for one..





Got some dynamic black mirror LED's installed, was actually scary removing the mirrors and trying to not crack/break them.
Got black front indicators as well, reduced light output (will go with LED's to counter this I suppose at some point) but they look nice.





Ended up finally putting my Forgestar F14's on the car, and I have to say it looks somewhat alright and suits it. I'm still not an overall fan of them (more on this later). Additionally got an alignment as expected.





Installed a Sony XAV-AX5000 (stock speakers.. for now), having some issues with wiring the handbrake to this (if anyone can help - I'll actually make a separate post)



Front bumper was replaced by insurance as it was badly damaged during shipping and both headlights were replaced with Phillips 4300k Whitevision Gen 2's. Connector for the reverse sensors was replaced (but still not working..)



Replaced Haldex and rear diff fluid, some brake fluid was replaced previously as well, gearbox fluid was replaced with the clutch packs.

Got a new (used) boot blind, was really shocked to find out that VW want $850 retail brand new.. Actually a joke, found a used one (in overall decent condition for $220 shipped - shipping was a large cost)

Replaced all spark plugs - dropped almost 1L / 100k of highway driving which is actually insane. Unsure if the old ones were "bad" but I have no history of the car so figured it was money well spent and I was correct.



Ordered ECS Subframe locking collar kit (was making some noise when reversing and this solved it - subframe shifting!)
Found out that the ECS Poly Dogbone Mount Insert are for US cars and do not fit any Australian/"Euro" cars.. Ask me how :/

Had tint applied to the car, 25% on the front and 30% on the rear. The rear still appears to be darker for the most part due to the front screen letting light in but it's very close. As it currently stands are below.





Parking sensors are still not working, was getting an error for two shorts to ground and a supply voltage, I suppose I was a bit hopeful with the error being a singular sensor.. As it's had a prang in the front at some point some genius has taped together the wiring loom for the parking sensors, which is also the loom for the coolant temp sensor and the indicators as some of you may know. Made the decision to not chase somebody else's wiring nightmare and just get another loom. Found one used and now waiting on this to arrive and will swap it out later. Got a used loom and all four sensors for the price of a singular new sensor (VW Quoted me $290 for a new loom and 2 weeks waiting.. this was the best price I could find).



Have some refurbished BBS Speedlines on the way this week or next week (pics soon!)

Fair to say I've fallen in love with my R36 despite the horrible start to the story. I've barely driven my B5 A4 at all, the only time I recall recently is when teaching someone to drive manual and I've actually considered.. selling it.

Up Next:
Coolant Change
Potentially changing Coolant Temp sensor
Mk6R/Gti wheel Swap (waiting for a good deal to be honest)
Blue BBS Center Caps
Finding a used Dynaudio setup to swap in
Reverse camera
New shocks and potentially lowered springs (Thinking Bilsteins) which I found a pair of fronts on Facebook brand new for sale cheap but it's not a good time right now for this.

Oh and I also got custom plates and I've done the cabin air filter (old one was mouldy.. gross)

Also unsure why some of the photos came out sideways? If someone can fix that up or explain how to fix that'd be amazing.

[Matt86]

What year model is your R36? The newer models (MY10 onwards) seem to have less issues with timing chains. There was a guy on the forum who had problems with cam adjusters, which turned into a money pit. Have a look at this thread:
Cam adjuster issues 2010 R36

I would probably get it checked out by a VW specialist as a precaution. It could be nothing or it could come back to bite you.

In my case this ended up just being low/bad quality oil it seems.. Which isn't amazing, I've had it appear twice now and it seems to be far less frequent with oil changes. I may try a known working sensor and see how that goes as well when I get time.

[prn31]

Hi Matt,

If you search my build thread you will see that I’ve had some similar issues to you. One of my parking sensors was changed under “warranty” but the cheapskate dealer put a non-genuine one in. Didn’t fix the issue – sensors continuously beeping. Ultimately we pulled the front bar and found wiring loom patched up after previous accident damage(?) and we replaced the loom with a new one, which I think was $400 plus.

I also fitted a factory lowline RVC, which my mechanic fitted – quite a fiddly job as a lot of trim has to be removed and pushing the wiring through the rubber tubing near the tailgate is difficult especially if you have a power tailgate.

I’ve purchased a Dynaudio system to retrofit. It wasn’t cheap but did include the complete door cards to make it look like a factory fit. Unfortunately some of the locating brackets in the door cards have broken, which means sourcing a damaged card so that we can cut and plastic weld the brackets to the Dynaudio door cards. My guy also insists we buy a new set of Christmas clips for the job – I don’t want to introduce any new rattles to the interior.

Regarding shocks, I installed new Bilstein B8s (don’t use B6s) with new top mounts on the standard springs. The ride is marginally firmer but a lot more controlled than my standard shocks, which were shot after 130K.

Paul

[Matt86]

Hi Matt,

If you search my build thread you will see that I’ve had some similar issues to you. One of my parking sensors was changed under “warranty” but the cheapskate dealer put a non-genuine one in. Didn’t fix the issue – sensors continuously beeping. Ultimately we pulled the front bar and found wiring loom patched up after previous accident damage(?) and we replaced the loom with a new one, which I think was $400 plus.

I also fitted a factory lowline RVC, which my mechanic fitted – quite a fiddly job as a lot of trim has to be removed and pushing the wiring through the rubber tubing near the tailgate is difficult especially if you have a power tailgate.

I’ve purchased a Dynaudio system to retrofit. It wasn’t cheap but did include the complete door cards to make it look like a factory fit. Unfortunately some of the locating brackets in the door cards have broken, which means sourcing a damaged card so that we can cut and plastic weld the brackets to the Dynaudio door cards. My guy also insists we buy a new set of Christmas clips for the job – I don’t want to introduce any new rattles to the interior.

Regarding shocks, I installed new Bilstein B8s (don’t use B6s) with new top mounts on the standard springs. The ride is marginally firmer but a lot more controlled than my standard shocks, which were shot after 130K.

Paul

Oh wow, with the loom. I'm surprised a third party sensor has issues (if it was a decent brand) but that makes sense with the front end damage. I'd expect some patched up damage to be OK, but the extent of mine is quite bad (at least four spots that I can see) so quite happy to get a new loom and sensors. Was it a big/hard job?

I was going to go with OEM+ with a head unit, but ultimately I wanted the Sony that I got as it has a glass screen. The Reverse camera is the last on the list to be entirely honest, I have a power tailgate too (I don't actually like it - everyone keeps pressing down on it!)

Dynaudio is one of the last options for me as well. In terms of door cards, I assume you need a Dynaudio optioned car door card or will any B6 Passat door card do? Christmas clips aren't too badly priced overall, I likely need to do mine as well at some point as some as some of my interior rattles.

What's wrong with B6's? I'm not going to get those as I'm feeling the cost of the Speedlines that I just got right now and will do some more research later on. Just had to order some center bores for the speedlines tonight from 66.6mm to 57.1mm for around $15 on ebay (Aluminum).

Thanks for the response
Matt

[prn31]

My panelbeater replaced the wiring loom. I don’t think it was a hard job, just fiddly and time consuming. I still have the aftermarket parking sensor, which has been behaving itself of late.

The RVC is the first thing I did on my R36. I don’t think I could live without it.

You can put in the Dynaudio speakers without changing the door cards. It’s not a must do,but I like the recognition of having the Dynaudio system and know of someone who has the speakers but was chasing the door cards for that “complete look." Have a look at this retrofit guide. R36 Dynaudio Retrofit Guide

With the Bilsteins the B6 are suited for cars with standard suspension/ride height, whilst the B8s are designed for cars that have been lowered or have sports suspension, which is what the R36 has. The B8s are matched to the less suspension travel of the R36 – it won’t quite work with the B6 – the car will bottom out too easily.

[Matt86]

My panelbeater replaced the wiring loom. I don’t think it was a hard job, just fiddly and time consuming. I still have the aftermarket parking sensor, which has been behaving itself of late.

The RVC is the first thing I did on my R36. I don’t think I could live without it.

You can put in the Dynaudio speakers without changing the door cards. It’s not a must do,but I like the recognition of having the Dynaudio system and know of someone who has the speakers but was chasing the door cards for that “complete look." Have a look at this retrofit guide. R36 Dynaudio Retrofit Guide

With the Bilsteins the B6 are suited for cars with standard suspension/ride height, whilst the B8s are designed for cars that have been lowered or have sports suspension, which is what the R36 has. The B8s are matched to the less suspension travel of the R36 – it won’t quite work with the B6 – the car will bottom out too easily.

Ahh yes, so B8's it'll be then! As for the door cards I reckon I'd live with the stock ones. My drivers door is a bit rough so I'd consider the swap if i found a full set for a good price. I'll have to look at wreckers.

Thought I'd post my new wheels, decided to slow down with the Passat once I've done the wiring loom and likely source some interior LED's and a reverse LED (25% tint + night + reversing) isn't fun with the stock bulb.

Picture of wheels for thread update. BBS Speedline 19x9 ET33 CB of 66.6.
One tyre has a slow leak at the moment, so going to leave it and drive the Audi for a bit until the hub rings arrive and then I'll get the tyre shop to look at it again as well as an alignment (rear has a lot of toe).
Also waiting on the seller to send center caps, as he purchased them for himself personally and they arrived broken.

[Matt86]

Soooo long time since I've updated here.

I now have a Supersprint Catback exhaust which sounds good overall.

Had the oil changed as you'd expect and a general checkup.
Replaced the PCV Diaphragm, the old one wasn't torn but it was very old and fell apart in my hands.
Rocker cover gasket was replaced here too
VW Diagnosed issue as HPFP
This was later suggested to be the Vaccum Pump
I then later (as per VW's advice) found that the issue was the timing chain noise
Timing is OK and I'm OK to drive this for now, but will consider doing this soon.

Front hubs (and bearings) were replaced (Threads were stuffed from someone running non-hub centric spacers)..
All

Replaced Coilpacks (5 of 6), one of these is GLUED into the car. I'm yet to get this out without damaging the wiring..
This stopped the random intermittent misfires on dead cold start, no errors were reported but it is definitely better.

Replaced all brake lines with ECS Braided lines and a brake flush (Bendix Super Dot 4) while I was in NSW at a mates Garage.

Coolant Change - Done
* Also changed the coolant tank, that annoying heater core flange and gasket.

Potentially changing Coolant Temp sensor
*Wasn't needed

Mk6R/Gti wheel Swap (waiting for a good deal to be honest)
* Had a deal for this fall through, not too fussed at all I've come to like the R36 wheel over time.

Blue BBS Center Caps
* Settled for Red stickers to cover fake Audi center caps, they look OK

Finding a used Dynaudio setup to swap in
* Ended up getting some 6.5 speaker adapters and will get some speakers at some point, not in a rush.

Reverse camera
* On The Way (taken almost 2 months in the mail)

New shocks and potentially lowered springs (Thinking Bilsteins) which I found a pair of fronts on Facebook brand new for sale cheap but it's not a good time right now for this.
* Got a set of used Koni Yellows that arrived today and H&R Lowering Springs (25mm drop)
* Getting new dust boots, bump stops and strut tops as well

To Do;
Finish suspension - parts on the way and install this
Timing Chain Stuff - Have put through for a quote on this, still looking to source OEM/Quality parts. Am going to just replace the sprockets, despite it adding a big cost to the parts now it's small in relation to the labour costs.
Find a plastic under tray (I hate these, but it's useful to have)
Replace that last coilpack
Speakers + Sub

[Jakeys]

Hey mate, if you are looking at doing Dynaudio retrofit still, I have the R36 Dynaudio amp at home, I have been meaning to sell it but haven't gotten around to it yet. Any interest? I bought it for my car and briefly fitted it with the stock speakers, but I ended up doing an RCD330 infotainment swap which doesn't support the Dynaudio amp properly as it doesn't have the same VCDS adaptions, so I went back to stock amp. It is plug and play for MY08-09 but VW changed the amp plug for MY10, I have the adapter for that. (Which is extremely rare, FYI.)

[Matt86]

Hey mate, if you are looking at doing Dynaudio retrofit still, I have the R36 Dynaudio amp at home, I have been meaning to sell it but haven't gotten around to it yet. Any interest? I bought it for my car and briefly fitted it with the stock speakers, but I ended up doing an RCD330 infotainment swap which doesn't support the Dynaudio amp properly as it doesn't have the same VCDS adaptions, so I went back to stock amp. It is plug and play for MY08-09 but VW changed the amp plug for MY10, I have the adapter for that. (Which is extremely rare, FYI.)

It pains me to say this but..

I don't have a stock head unit, so it would therefore wouldn't work at all if I'm correct?

How much are you after anyway, incase it would work / I know someone who may be interested.

[Jakeys]

It pains me to say this but..

I don't have a stock head unit, so it would therefore wouldn't work at all if I'm correct?

How much are you after anyway, incase it would work / I know someone who may be interested.

I'm not sure to be honest! In theory it would if the stock one does, but I don't really know. I was chasing $250.

[Matt86]

I'm not sure to be honest! In theory it would if the stock one does, but I don't really know. I was chasing $250.

I'll have to pass, as much as I hate to say it. It'd require me to re-wire it from what I have found.

Anyway big update for now.

Finally got my 3sub12 and Helix G-One installed, I don't really push it at all but it's a nice smooth subtle bass.

The bigger aspect of this is my suspension!

Replaced;
· Used Koni Yellow Shocks
Front: 8741 1488 SPORT
Rear: 8040 1352 SPORT
· Used H&R Lowering Springs
Part Number: 29162
· Lemforder Strut Mounts – Original mounts were still fine, I still have these
· Suspension Strut Bearings – Passenger side fell apart in my hands, these were also thicker then the original
· Rear Shock mount (these honestly looked fine previously, however they did come with new bolts which were too short so had to use the originals

Car sits insanely low now, I can't say that I feel that it's super convenient for a daily drive but I'll see how I go. I can always put the stock springs back into it to raise the front up and keep the Koni Yellows as they should be short enough being R36 springs (as opposed to B6 Passat which sits 20mm higher). It does ride a LOT better overall.