Some Arteon quirks (vs other models)

[LRDV8R]

but to my ears the bass levels even at -2 are too high at anything above background volumes....am I nuts or are you guys finding the same?

I have the same S&S Dynaudio system in my Arteon. The key for me here in your comment was "but to my ears" - I've spent some years working for Sony and my father having been an audio engineer/technician gave me some insights into the nuances of sound and the subjective nature of audience listening.. that said- I've just come out of a car with a BOSE system and enjoyed the rich sound stage it provided but acknowledging that it wallowed deeply in the low hz range with lots of bass often distracting even .. I find the Dynaudio system in Arteon well detailed in the mids and bright clear highs but to your point I have noticed that the bass (although not as deep as I'd like or maybe am used to) extends rather flatly higher up the sound spectrum cutting into the detail in the lower mid ranges. It does vary on sound source though (mp3's tend not to be as dynamic depending on sample rate in the file- streamed mp3's even worse). Also, try the sound setting 'authentic' to balance bass with detail but again... the sound experience is quite subjective... luckily there's lots of settings to try to find that personal sweet spot!

[HiddenTaco]

Also, try the sound setting 'authentic' to balance bass with detail but again...

I find authentic to be the best setting.

At first, I felt like the system has too much bass but learned to enjoy it. My mate who is much more of an audiophile than me put it this way, "You just haven't heard what your music is meant to sound like until now"...

[DAS AUTO]

Thanks Guys, great insight. I definitely agree on the subjective nature of the listening audience. It's interesting too how my tastes have changed as I've gotten older.
I'm going to go back to 'authentic' and give that a go. I'm sure I can find that sweet spot.

I have something else in the works to address the levels of sound in the 30 - 150 Hz range......stay tuned

[DreamensioN]

I've had it where I've been in traffic and it'll start proximity beeping at me like the car that pulled up next to me is way too close, when in actual fact they are over in their lane and the expected distance away.

Ok so more of an update on this... it happened today several times - and I think I know what it might be.

Driving into work this morning, the M3 into Brisbane was its usual crawl as you get to just past the Woolloongabba entrance to the Clem7, and this Mini Cooper Countryman (looked newish) was coming up beside me on the left. As he approached and got to within a few meters of the rear passenger corner of my car - my proximity sensors went off. He would of been maybe 2-3m away from the car. We were both doing a slow crawl aswell (10kph-20kph tops).


He went past me, and a few more cars went by without triggering my sensors. The cars that went past were some ute, a Corolla, Hyundai something or other sedan etc. A little while later I got back up to the Countryman, and then I edged infront of him. As I did, he set off my sensors again. And this happened another 2 or 3 times while we were in traffic together.


So - I have a theory.... it's a false positive (obviously) - but it's triggered because the Countryman also has sensors that are "broadcasting". My sensors are also "broadcasting" (due to being under a certain speed limit - so they automatically come on), and while they are broadcasting they are looking for the reflection - which is how they work. They are being triggered incorrectly because they were picking up the other cars broadcast (instead of their own reflection).


So why doesn't it do this with every car that has sensors - as most cars do these days? - Well I think the reason for this is because of the frequency they are broadcasting on. Maybe the Countryman and the Arteon use the same sensors tuned to the same frequency. Maybe other cars use different sensors or they scan in a different range. One possible reason for the proximity sensors going off at what seems to be random intervals in traffic is because there are only so many different frequencies the sensors can be set to. And every once in a while you get beside another car that has the same frequency, and you just basically ping off each other.


So in other words - it's quite possible aswell that while my sensors were being triggered in the Arteon - old mate in the Countryman was also having his sensors go off.


Anyway - this is my theory based on absolutely no research other than the drive into work this morning.

[HiddenTaco]

We must test this! Unfortunately, I don't see many Minis...

It might have something more to do with height of sensors matching rather than frequency.


Has anyone else felt like the car doesn't detect stationary cars well?

I use Cruise Control with everything turned on A LOT and feel like the radar can only pick up moving objects. Easiest example is at a red light...

You are in a lane with car moving in front and car has it detected
Light ahead is red
You switch into a lane with a stationary car ahead
Car seems to only notice the car at a point where a collision is likely

My guess is that the camera object detection isn't that great. So when the radar (by design) doesn't pick up a stationary object the car thinks the road is clear.

Our cars don't have lidar. The technology feels acceptable considering the lack of lidar. I'm starting to understand how these Tesla drivers end up in trouble.

[Blackpaladin67]

Put 2 Arteons next to each other to check sensory bounce


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[LRDV8R]

Has anyone else felt like the car doesn't detect stationary cars well?

Yes, I've let the car roll forward a couple of times in stationery queues and my nerve has broken leading me to touch the brakes before the car has stopped.. in moving traffic it seems to call out the collision warning but MUCH later than previous vehicles I've owned with this technology.

[HiddenTaco]

Yes, I've let the car roll forward a couple of times in stationery queues and my nerve has broken leading me to touch the brakes before the car has stopped.. in moving traffic it seems to call out the collision warning but MUCH later than previous vehicles I've owned with this technology.

Thanks. Not just me then.

Another quirk is that the HUD Cruise Control distance indication is not very intuitive (or I'm a bit dumb).... On the HUD it adds bars as you press the button which I thought meant you were lessening the gap between the bars and the car ahead. Wrong! The more bars the further away it will maintain.

It was only after seeing it in the AID did it click in my brain.

[DreamensioN]

Thanks Guys, great incite. I definitely agree on the subjective nature of the listening audience. It's interesting too how my tastes have changed as I've gotten older.
I'm going to go back to 'authentic' and give that a go. I'm sure I can find that sweet spot.

I have something else in the works to address the levels of sound in the 30 - 150 Hz range......stay tuned

I listen to a lot of electronic music. Older people might call it "doof doof" music.

I have my settings on this:
Dolby Pro Logic = On
Sound type Dynamic = Selected

Custom settings:
Treble = +6

Middle = +5

Bass = -3

Subwoofer = +7

I find that sounds best to me for the music I listen to. It cleans up the bass a lot and lets the subwoofer do most of the bass notes and the "punch" from kick drums etc. It also adds brightness to the top end.

[Blackpaladin67]

Yes, I've let the car roll forward a couple of times in stationery queues and my nerve has broken leading me to touch the brakes before the car has stopped.. in moving traffic it seems to call out the collision warning but MUCH later than previous vehicles I've owned with this technology.

Have you adjusted the setting for the alert?


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[LRDV8R]

Excellent question- currently set on medium.. maybe I'll set it to far and try it out.. see if activates any more often..

[DAS AUTO]

Thanks Guys, great insight. I definitely agree on the subjective nature of the listening audience. It's interesting too how my tastes have changed as I've gotten older.
I'm going to go back to 'authentic' and give that a go. I'm sure I can find that sweet spot.

I have something else in the works to address the levels of sound in the 30 - 150 Hz range......stay tuned

Had to break out some old "Kerfing" skills to create the round enclosure.
Dropped in the factory Dyn sub while I'm waiting for the Kicker to arrive from 'merica...Noticeable difference with just a larger enclosure - 18.7 litres. Much better lows and bigger output.

Stage 2 next weekend fingers crossed

[LRDV8R]

I'll admit it... I had to google 'Kerfing'... I've only ever built square sub-boxes.. I'm assuming the 18 litre enclosure sits within the design perimeters for the subwoofer you're ordering- are you matching the ohms and watts rating to what's provided for the factory unit or are you amplifying as well?

[DAS AUTO]

I'll admit it... I had to google 'Kerfing'... I've only ever built square sub-boxes.. I'm assuming the 18 litre enclosure sits within the design perimeters for the subwoofer you're ordering- are you matching the ohms and watts rating to what's provided for the factory unit or are you amplifying as well?

Yeah the sub that’s coming has a recommended enclosure volume range from 5 to 21 litres. I’ve gone with the dual 2 ohm voice coil unit to be the same as the factory Dynaudio sub so as to retain the factory amp.
Not sure on the max power output of the Dynaudio amp but it think it’ll be plenty.

Overall plan is to keep the car as close to stock as possible so that I can reverse any changes and keep full use of the spare tire and boot space. In my younger years running 2 gauge down a car to power a multiple amp racks and 12 inch subs would be a given...hopefully my current plans will be enough for a little while.

[DreamensioN]

Anybody else get air/wind noise like the drivers door isn't sealed properly when doing 100kph?

I haven't into it in any great detail - but it's just something I've noticed. Like the rubber isn't sealing 100% and I get wind/air leak noise at high speed.