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Tiguan cluster retrofit red MFD -> white MFD or ?? colour "premium" MFD
This would be an interesting swap for me except I think the tacho may be an issue. The MK6 dash is for a four cylinder and mine is a six cylinder. Lots of work to do but does give a nice updated look
For White to premium(color) cluster upgrade I think don't need a connector swap assuming premium clusters has same 32 pin connectors on them. Now problem is how to find a matching premium cluster hmmm...
Yes I think for later model 2011+ Tiguan it's just a straight swap white -> colour MFD, and immo matching. There are a few posts on vwvortex etc etc. for swap in Golfs. I will try find a colour MFA to swap in the next few weeks for experimentation and post results here. The beauty of the immo clone method is that I can at any time swap back to the old red MFA cluster with no need for immo coding or anything... car will start (the only thing is KM won't match anymore because old cluster can't know about accumulated KMs while it's sitting in the cupboard )
5N092088X eg 5N0920882 or 5N0920883 is part number for Tiguan premium cluster with colour MFA with KMH I have seen on eBay. If third last digit is "8" then it's KMH and "9" means MPH. A and B is for petrol and C is for diesel as far as I can tell. Also second-last digit is "8" for premium colour MFA. Note with Tig 4motion and ebrake you need the specific Tiguan cluster for it to work (extra fuel sender, and brake warning indicator signal is inverted compared to Golf etc, ie +ve signal not ground signal)
Yes I think for later model 2011+ Tiguan it's just a straight swap white -> colour MFD, and immo matching. There are a few posts on vwvortex etc etc. for swap in Golfs. I will try find a colour MFA to swap in the next few weeks for experimentation and post results here. The beauty of the immo clone method is that I can at any time swap back to the old red MFA cluster with no need for immo coding or anything... car will start (the only thing is KM won't match anymore because old cluster can't know about accumulated KMs while it's sitting in the cupboard )
5N092088X eg 5N0920882 or 5N0920883 is part number for Tiguan premium cluster with colour MFA with KMH I have seen on eBay. If third last digit is "8" then it's KMH and "9" means MPH. A and B is for petrol and C is for diesel as far as I can tell. Also second-last digit is "8" for premium colour MFA. Note with Tig 4motion and ebrake you need the specific Tiguan cluster for it to work (extra fuel sender, and brake warning indicator signal is inverted compared to Golf etc, ie +ve signal not ground signal)
Thanks a lot for the info. I will try to source a matching cluster meanwhile I am very interested of hearing how you will progress with new color (premium cluster) as well. If I could find a matching part hopefully appreciate some help with cloning part of the install
2013 Tiguan 155kW DSG | Leather | Bi Xenon's | Park Assist 2.0 | Panoramic Sunroof | RCD 510 | RVC | MDI
Mods: APR K04 v3.1 | HPA Haldex | S3 Intercooler | Custom 3" Quad Tip Exhaust | Carbonio Intake | WL HD RSB | GFB DV+ | Koni Yellow Sport Struts & Eibach Springs | HP LCAs | Custom Audio ( Alpine MRX V70 , Audison Bit Ten , Dynamat , Stealth Sub ) | Car Tablet | CB Radio | Sports Pedals | RLine Door Sills | Wheel Arch Extensions | 3 Bar MAP & BKR8EIX | RT VCDS .... Performance: 0 - 100 km/h, 5.0 seconds ( Racelogic PBox tested ) Tiguan Build Thread
But, usually the DIYers don't post the stuff ups in the forum, only the good stuff.
...and hardly ever we read to whom the credit goes for the job completed or done.
I have to agree with you about this Transporter. But DIYers learn things from few different ways, some have lot of background knowledge in mechanical and other disciplines of engineering (may not directly relevant to the car or system they work on), some learn from other DIYers, some learn from online, some have born talent. But at the end they have to experiment and do it, of course they stuff it up some times but at the end the day knowledge, satisfaction and money saved is far outweighs the stuff ups.
When I see DIY stuff posted in internet, most of them have coming from people work on same field, automotive, embedded systems , software, robotics and many other fields. And experts in these field actually encourage others to try and learn stuff, but sadly in Australia I rarely see this happen!
2013 Tiguan 155kW DSG | Leather | Bi Xenon's | Park Assist 2.0 | Panoramic Sunroof | RCD 510 | RVC | MDI
Mods: APR K04 v3.1 | HPA Haldex | S3 Intercooler | Custom 3" Quad Tip Exhaust | Carbonio Intake | WL HD RSB | GFB DV+ | Koni Yellow Sport Struts & Eibach Springs | HP LCAs | Custom Audio ( Alpine MRX V70 , Audison Bit Ten , Dynamat , Stealth Sub ) | Car Tablet | CB Radio | Sports Pedals | RLine Door Sills | Wheel Arch Extensions | 3 Bar MAP & BKR8EIX | RT VCDS .... Performance: 0 - 100 km/h, 5.0 seconds ( Racelogic PBox tested ) Tiguan Build Thread
Finally got a "premium" cluster with the colour MFA and am happy to report it's (almost) plug and play swap! For a facelift Tiguan there would be only a few steps:
1) Go to someone local with an immo tool like AVDI and read the cluster IMMO data and save as a .HEX file. This file is very small <1kB and contains all the immo data from the car, including the "component security" code, which are the bytes that have been burned into the key transponder. Cost ~ AU $100, takes all of 30 seconds at the auto electrician. Looks like this:
2) Buy a new or used cluster online preferably from a tacho specialist (rather than a wrecker) - numerous overseas eBay sellers are gurus in instrument clusters and have the tools and knowledge to adapt the new cluster to your car using just the HEX file from above. Cost EUR 300-700+ including coding and shipping, depending on the cluster condition, how many scratches...
3) Swap your cluster - takes less than 5 minutes. Unclip 1 trim piece, undo 2 torx screws with a magnetic driver, the cluster slides right out - then unlatch the plug at the back. Fitting is reverse of removal. Then use VCDS to code the odometer value.
4) "You now have the premium colour cluster. Prepare to get laid." (That's a quote from another forum, love it ) Some pictures for your amusement below.
- Open up your cluster to clean out any dust behind the glass
- Swap boring red needles for sexy blue needles. You need to solder 4x SMT blue LED diodes but they are quite large in size and doable with even basic solder skills and a crappy $5 ***** smith iron.
Thanks for the wealth of information YellowLemon.
I've been wanting to change my white MFD to a full colour for a while, but have not been able to obtain a replacement. I'm considering buying one new from the dealers, but looking at ETKA, even with your helpful info that the second last digit is an 8 if a colour MFD, I still have a few options to choose from.
ETKA shows the following 300KM/h parts which I assume would be the blue needle variety
- 5K6 920 882 BX
- 5K6 920 882 EX
- 5K6 920 883 BX
- 5K6 920 883 CX
For the GTi 280km clocks it gives
- 5K6 920 882X
- 5K6 920 883X
Any idea what the difference is? What is the part number of the red needle version you bought?
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