Rear view camera for tiguan - install completed

[Transporter]

Without reaching for the wiring diagram; I'd take the voltmeter and check the voltage at the rear light with the reverse gear sellected. If, you use just the test light, make sure it's LED test light, suited for the work on today's cars. Not the one your dad had used on the FJ Holden.

[aussietig]

Firstly thanks to CADman for this original thread with pics & instructions.

Wouldn't have gone ahead with this install without it!

Nevertheless ... thought I'd add some more and help others to avoid the hours of sore finger tips and scratches that I endured.


VCDS Coding

I actually did the coding upfront (and not at the end as suggested), once I tapped into the power supply of the RNS510 wiring harness (following CADman's instructions) and connected the RVC onto the end of the cable supplied.

This way I could check for sure that RVC was powering up and showing up on my RNS510 display before running any cabling.

NOTE 1: At this stage you will see RVC icon on the display when you put car into Reverse (without engine on). But will just get a black picture if you press on the RVC icon as haven't connected RVC to reverse trigger wire.



Doing coding upfront to enable RVC (i.e. Module 37 - Navigation, Byte 3, checking the Bit 6 box) also allows you to check and make sure that the RVC plug on the back of the RNS510 is secured properly. Getting this assurance will save you pulling out the unit later on, if there was a bad connection and one less problem or re-work to worry about.

NOTE 2: Do not leave too much slack in the cable supplied behind the head unit. Just enough to pull the unit out and access the back to unplug. Otherwise, you may run the risk of not having enough cable to reach the handle. Lucky for me, there was just enough with say 5cm spare only. You seriously don't want to come up short right at the very end.


Running cable in back seats

CADman mentioned one bolt securing the back door trim. Here's what it looks like:



Realistically, you only need to lift up the magazine holder trim to feed the cable to the boot.

NOTE: It's extremely difficult and not worth the effort, removing top part of the rear door trim and seat belt, to try and feed the cable strictly right along the side of the car. Just in between this magazine holder trim and the backseat is fine!





Once you're past the back seat and into the boot section, force the cable back into the RHS (bottom) panel of the boot.

You will need to undo the two screws holding the chrome hook (if you have 147TSI or 155TSI) and the parcel shelf, to loosen the whole top half of RHS (bottom) panel.

NOTE: No need to undo the bolt right at the front bottom of the RHS (bottom) panel of boot.

Once loosened, pull the RHS (bottom) panel towards the middle of the boot, to run the cable behind the RHS (bottom) panel and towards end of the boot.

CADman's original pic for reference, but have marked the location of screws with 2 red 'X's:




Tapping into Reverse Wire Trigger

Here's where the set of 3 wires is for the reverse lights:



Never had a multimeter and so unplugging the black socket to see if that affected the reverse light helped locate the right set.

NOTE: CADman mentioned 2 blue wires. They were actually 2 blue/black wires in my MY2011 Tig.



CONTINUE ON NEXT POST

[aussietig]

Running cable and extension for Reverse Wire Trigger up to the top of boot

CADman suggested running it behind the black weather seal rubber (pictured above) all the way to the top.
However, you can run it behind the RHS (top) side panel of the boot.
It is just held on by one lug, once you remove the light grey roofline end trim.



NOTE: CADman suggested 3 metres of 4mm gauge wire for this extension.
However the actual reverse trigger wire is about 1mm gauge (same as the yellow wire on the cable supplied).


From top of boot to RVC handle

Here's the actual recommended route following the original wiring:



NOTE 1: You could instead go the RHS of the bootlid if you're a rebel.

NOTE 2: You do need to remove all the end connectors from the RVC wiring harness supplied.
This will actually require cutting the wires clean off the power supply and re-wiring it.
The other wire just requires removing the antenna like end plug.
Otherwise there's no way you can feed the cable and the extension for reverse trigger wire through the black rubber tubing from roof lining to boot lid.


Removing old handle and fitting RVC handle

Supposedly the easiest part, fricken took me ages.

Bloody son of a b!tches made the holes for the two bolts behind the handle just snug on the boot lid and the bolts are actually on an uneven level.



So the previous advice of not needing to remove the entire black trim/bar, to remove the handle was not correct in my experience.

What happened was prying out the handle with a small screwdriver actually didn't work and ended up just removing the outer skin of the handle only.

Because of the small holes provided, the handle just wouldn't come out with the two bolts stuck in the hole by its own thread.
Again the fcuken uneven level of the two bolts didn't help and meant it was impossible to remove the handle without first removing the whole black bar/trim that holds both the handle and the two licence plate lights.

NOTE: You do need to remove the handle by first removing the whole black bar.



Installing the new RVC handle, required the complete reverse. First fit the handle to the whole black bar and then hold & feed the whole bar into the two bolt holes behind the handle (with force and on steep angle pointing down to ground.)

NOTE: There's no way you can put the handle back in if you've fitted the whole black bar back into place first.
The connector behind the actual camera is too big and just won't allow you to find the two bolt holes behind the handle.



Now you should re-wire the two end plugs on the cable supplied and also join the reverse trigger wire extension to the yellow wire on the cable supplied.

Then connect the two end plugs on the cable supplied to the RVC handle.

Final Testing of Unit

Suggest you now do final testing of the unit to see if it works, before putting all the trims back on the boot lid.



NOTE: To test properly, requires a quick drive in reverse and engine started.
I made the mistake of assuming seeing a black screen on the display as meaning something was wrong.
The black screen is actually the RVC in sleep/standby mode and needs to wake up with some speed/movement in reverse gear.

Have to say that the display at night time produces the greatest benefit and the main reason why you need to have the RVC and do this mod.

Where it's actually pitch black to the naked eye, it lights up the whole back and gutter very clearly and without any additional lighting.
In other words, much more effective than say adding more lights or brighter bulbs on the back for better visibility & etc.


Reinstalling all trim on boot lid

Definitely need to reinstall in the reverse order:

1) large back panel;
2) 2 side panels that have clips for rear parcel shelf;
3) top panel of boot lid.

NOTE: If you followed the route pictured for running your cabling, then you may have only just pulled out the LHS panel of the boot lid.
However, it's extremely difficult putting back the large back panel, with a side panel present.
So suggest removing both side panels on the boot lid.


Anyhow hope all this additional info helps the next DIY install!

[Bambazonke]

Good write up Aussietig to support CADman's original write up. I worked from the boot lid to the front of the car and did however manage to thread the 2 power cables intact through the one black rubber tubing and the camera cable through the other using patience,Vaseline and good old coat hanger wire. I laced the camera connector with vaseline and pushed pulled it through and hooked the power wires onto a hook I fashioned out of a wire coat hanger I learn't from wiring up central locking on my old E30 in my youth

P S how are the fingers feeling after ripping off the panels?

[iamthestig]

Yes, great info AussieTig. The only thing is that I think you may have dampened my thoughts on actually undertaking the install !

But at least I can see what I am up against !

[aussietig]

Good write up Aussietig to support CADman's original write up. I worked from the boot lid to the front of the car and did however manage to thread the 2 power cables intact through the one black rubber tubing and the camera cable through the other using patience,Vaseline and good old coat hanger wire. I laced the camera connector with vaseline and pushed pulled it through and hooked the power wires onto a hook I fashioned out of a wire coat hanger I learn't from wiring up central locking on my old E30 in my youth

P S how are the fingers feeling after ripping off the panels?

I actually electric taped the two power cables and the camera cable altogether, as one gigantic python and pulled it through just the one black rubber tubing.

Definitely was cursing CADman for recommending 4mm gauge at that point, pulling this python through with no lubricant.

That probably cut my hands the most, pulling the fencing wire that I used to attach on the end of it.

Hands still recovering! Still a little sore and swollen.


I should point out that the biggest PITA is when the clips come off the trim and either fall inside boot lid or on the ground and need to be retrieved. Or the clips don't come off with the trims and stay in their place on the metal panels and you need to pull them out one by one with some pliers. So suggest not installing at night time or under poor light.


Now would I do it again?

Hell NO!!! I'll pay the b@$t@rd$ whatever they ask for (next time) to have it factory fitted!

[Bambazonke]

I am feeling the same way about my fog light installation getting cold feet about buying the kit from Germany as they don't appear to supply any details of where to connect the wire loom to the main loom somewhere under the main fuse box in the engine compartment. did you get my PM re photos?

Iamthestig it's character building! The local agent has a bit more respect for me after seeing the fruits of my work.

[whiskywallah]

Hi aussietig.
Great write up.
How do you remove the black trim bar wih handle and lights.
I've undone the 2 obvious bolts and removed both lights but can't work out what else is holding it in?

Ive not removed any other trim yet. Is that the clue?

[aussietig]

Yes ... need to first remove the large back panel trim of boot lid and undo the two nuts holding the handle in place.

Then the black trim bar is just held on by two screws (which you need to unscrew) and clips.

Pry with say credit card (if you don't want to scratch the paintwork) and pull off trim.

Hopefully the removal of the black trim bar will also remove the handle from the two holes on the boot lid.

[whiskywallah]

Thanks everyon for all the photos and notes.
RVC installed and working with ANS810.

Note to self..... Buy a car with RVC already fitted!

[Transporter]

lol, but you can say, hey that's my reverse cam and I've installed it myself!

[aussietig]

lol, but you can say, hey that's my reverse cam and I've installed it myself!

Yep good idea BB!

Just updated my signature and given myself a medal/trophy!

[Suffolk]

Yep good idea BB!

Just updated my signature and given myself a medal/trophy!

Hi Aussietig, I I'm having a problem with rvc.
Just to clarify, camera came with one black cable with blue plug that connects to the back of rns510. Then I have three other cables, yellow brown and red.
Please tell me if this is correct?
Red to live cigarette Jack?
Brown to earth?
Yellow to blue black plug in reverse plug?
Which blue black wire?
Labelled 1 or 2? Plug is numbered.

I tried plugging camera and now the black screen doesn't come up anymore.
Did coding again still don't come up?

Thank you in advance.

[Bambazonke]

Hi Suffolk

I can't remmember which black/blue wire it is, as I used a multimeter to detect 12.5 v when reverse gear is selected, the other blue black wire i suspect carries a signal back to the CAN Bus as there was no voltage recorded from it when reverse gear was activated. If you were getting a black screen (blue screen on RCD510) beforehand then it sounds like you have a bad connection with the black camera cable itself, as the black screen only kicks in once a positive signal is received from the reverse light circuit. Suggest you double check the connections into the back of the RNS510 as Kamold has come accross this issue before when assisting other dubbers when doing coding for RVC installations.( i am assuming you had the radio on at the time to check).

All your other connection assumptions are correct. The blue plug should connect to the RVC and in my case I had a big rectangular black plug that fitted into the back of the RCD510.

[aussietig]

If you're not even getting black screen, then definitely problem with connection with red & brown wire that supply the power.


If just black screen, then problem with the yellow (on cable supplied) to blue/black reverse trigger wire of Tig.

Or as suggested, loose connector in the back of the unit.