Tiguan Rear Swaybar - Installation & Reviews

[tigger73]

Well this can happen with the brackets supplied on the rear sways:

http://www.vwwatercooled.com/forums/...tml#post853987

But resolved under warranty with thicker ones supplied.

I'll have to take a look at the rears. I didn't think the brackets were too flimsy looking putting them on but certainly will be keeping an eye on them.

Do you have any photos of your upgrade brackets? I'll take a shot of mine tomorrow and post it up.

[aussietig]

No sorry ... but they were just thicker than the ones that tore.

Apparently I had an older batch (but purchased last year).

You probably already have the thicker one I'm using.


Anyhow the purpose of my post is just an FYI in case anyone ever hears clunking noises from the back.

Could be the bracket failing on the RSB set on hard.

[Tiggy1]

No sorry ... but they were just thicker than the ones that tore.

Apparently I had an older batch (but purchased last year).

You probably already have the thicker one I'm using.


Anyhow the purpose of my post is just an FYI in case anyone ever hears clunking noises from the back.

Could be the bracket failing on the RSB set on hard.

Onya Aussietig - once again you've "been there, done that" and discovered the benefits (and failings ) for your fellow Tig owners
Wondering whether my clunking noise (going fwd as well as reverse) is something to do with this - requires further investigation I feel. If nothing else, might be more encouragement for me to replace ASB (my excuse anyways)
I take it you've only done the RSB? You haven't noticed any undue imbalance with not having the front done as well? Apart from the difficulty of doing the front compared to the rear (and possible problems as discovered by Tigger73) am thinking of doing rear only in order to lessen natural built-in understeer/push?!

[Tiggy1]

Yes front sway bar requires the whole front subframe to be dropped in order to get the old sway bar out and the new one in. Definetely not a job to be done on the driveway.

Rear sway bar installation was a piece of cake in comparison. Though I did have to put my wheels back on and head out to Bunnings to pick up a 10mm spline bit in order to undo some of the bolts. Once I got that it was a relatively straight forward job.

Hi Tigger73,
by "spline bit" I'm guessing you mean torx bit? Bought a set of these not long after I got the car as I noticed they used these everywhere (flaming krauts - gotta be different )
Cheers

[Tiggy1]

No the rear bar doesn't come with new linkages. Will have to do some further investigation here as I don't want to break my car.

Was more to do with links at either end I believe - may not be an issue as looks like WLASB is all one piece. I will have to have a closer look to see what it attaches to.

[Tiggy1]

I'll have to take a look at the rears. I didn't think the brackets were too flimsy looking putting them on but certainly will be keeping an eye on them.

Do you have any photos of your upgrade brackets? I'll take a shot of mine tomorrow and post it up.

Hi Tigger73,
am curious to see what your d-brackets are like, the ones on Aussietig's (that failed) are certainly flimsy looking

[tigger73]

Hi Tigger73,
by "spline bit" I'm guessing you mean torx bit? Bought a set of these not long after I got the car as I noticed they used these everywhere (flaming krauts - gotta be different )
Cheers

Not torx. The rear brackets are held on by 10mm spline bits just for something different.

A lot of trims have torx bits but I believe the more "structural" parts use spline bits as there are more teeth.

Also the bolts at each of the ends have a smaller spline socket so you can stop the bolt spinning (otherwise you have to use multigrips on the other end to grab the round head). My set of spline bits went down to 6mm and it's smaller than that.

Here's a shot looking at the end of the bolt:

[tigger73]

No sorry ... but they were just thicker than the ones that tore.

Apparently I had an older batch (but purchased last year).

You probably already have the thicker one I'm using.


Anyhow the purpose of my post is just an FYI in case anyone ever hears clunking noises from the back.

Could be the bracket failing on the RSB set on hard.

OK here's the photos - first the one off your car that busted:



And now the one that I have installed on my car:



It's a bit hard to tell from the photos and I have no idea how "old" my bar is and how long it may have been sitting in someones stock. Though if it starts making "funny" noises will definitely get under and check it out.

Actually one of the bolts from the rear bar started coming loose so I had some noises from the rear. Tightened it up and got the workshop to give it a once over when they were installing the font bar.

You can see they've put hose clamps next to the other clamps just to make sure the bar doesn't slip sideways on its mounts.

[tigger73]

I take it you've only done the RSB? You haven't noticed any undue imbalance with not having the front done as well? Apart from the difficulty of doing the front compared to the rear (and possible problems as discovered by Tigger73) am thinking of doing rear only in order to lessen natural built-in understeer/push?!

I had the rear bar only on for a week and it was a very noticeable difference though I am also running stock springs.

With front done as well the car is a lot flatter all over. Actually the stock rear bar is a lot "lighter" than the front stock bar. That's the very technical pick it up and feel how much weight is in the bar "scientific" in the garage kind of measurement.

It should take a workshop with a hoist perhaps half an hour to fit the rear bar. It's pretty much bolt off and bolt on. If you're going to do it yourself be really careful as there's quite a bit of tension in the bar and it will spring out. Do the outer bolts first and then when the tension is off do the centre mounts. Suggest taking wheels off when you do it to as it will help to take tension off the system.

Whiteline recommend getting the bars professionally installed - definitely recommended on the front and for the cost of the bits it's probably not worth doing the rear to be honest.

[Tiggy1]

Not torx. The rear brackets are held on by 10mm spline bits just for something different.

A lot of trims have torx bits but I believe the more "structural" parts use spline bits as there are more teeth.

Also the bolts at each of the ends have a smaller spline socket so you can stop the bolt spinning (otherwise you have to use multigrips on the other end to grab the round head). My set of spline bits went down to 6mm and it's smaller than that.

Here's a shot looking at the end of the bolt:

Aha - with you now. Thanks for the heads up, no doubt I would have been caught out and be cursing too

[aussietig]

Your D bracket looks the same thickness as the flimsy ones.

But more importantly the proper whiteline ones should be a gold colour.

If it wasn't raining, I would get down there and take a shot for you.

Later perhaps!

[Tiggy1]

OK here's the photos - first the one off your car that busted:



And now the one that I have installed on my car:



It's a bit hard to tell from the photos and I have no idea how "old" my bar is and how long it may have been sitting in someones stock. Though if it starts making "funny" noises will definitely get under and check it out.

Actually one of the bolts from the rear bar started coming loose so I had some noises from the rear. Tightened it up and got the workshop to give it a once over when they were installing the font bar.

You can see they've put hose clamps next to the other clamps just to make sure the bar doesn't slip sideways on its mounts.

The mounts don't appear too different (apart from the metal centre bit that clamps on the bar) - is the outer strap a thicker gauge material to the original one (bit hard to tell in pics)?
(Ditto Aussietigs post - the inner clamp should help it from moving along the bar, but outer clamp still looks like a weak point!)

I presume the hole closest to the bar itself would be the "softer setting". The outer one would have more leverage and make it stiffer I'm presuming

Was going to have a look under there anyway, to see if I can find the cause of the rattle/knock I already have - will be a good chance for me to see what's involved in changing it (if I can get my fat ass under there without a hoist that is )

Cheers

[aussietig]

I presume the hole closest to the bar itself would be the "softer setting". The outer one would have more leverage and make it stiffer I'm presuming

If you look at my pic, that's the hardest setting.

The shorter the bar when connected to the arm links, the stiffer it is.


Who knows whether it was lateral movement that caused my bracket to break.

Still have them on hard with the new thicker D brackets provided by Whiteline.
Touch wood ... so far so good!

But I really don't expect any further problems, given the Tig only does shopping and school runs.

However, I also did have problems with the original bolts becoming loose.
They did have to go with a thicker gauge thread when re-fitted by Pedders under warranty.

So much like other VW parts, best to consider ordering new set of bolts if doing this mod.

Have had knock and rattle problems in the past with strut mounts when I changed shocks and springs in a Mk5 GTI.

[Tiggy1]

If you look at my pic, that's the hardest setting.

The shorter the bar when connected to the arm links, the stiffer it is.


Who knows whether it was lateral movement that caused my bracket to break.

Still have them on hard with the new thicker D brackets provided by Whiteline.
Touch wood ... so far so good!

But I really don't expect any further problems, given the Tig only does shopping and school runs.

However, I also did have problems with the original bolts becoming loose.
They did have to go with a thicker gauge thread when re-fitted by Pedders under warranty.

So much like other VW parts, best to consider ordering new set of bolts if doing this mod.

Have had knock and rattle problems in the past with strut mounts when I changed shocks and springs in a Mk5 GTI.

Ah - shows how good my grasp on suspension geometry is
Managed to borrow a hoist and got underneath for a good look - the puniness of the "drop-links" (if that's what you call them) that go from the ends of the RSB up to top arms still concerns me but. I'm pretty sure Tigga1 got the Neuspeed ASB's because they also provide beefier links as well. Looking like the old Tig's underpinnings aren't as tough as I'd thought/hoped - I believe I found the cause of the knocking/rattle....

It appears that on one of my (few) off-road excursions I may have given the RH rear suspension arm a bit of a whack which split the rubber in the bush where arm mounts to the chassis (or started it on its way anyhow). Grabbed this arm and gave it a shake and heard the very same rattle/clunk! Comparing left to right it is cocked off to one side as well. Good news is finding the cause, bad news is that I might be hard-pressed to claim it on warranty (especially considering the matching scrape on the underside of the fuel tank and front engine guard on that side)
Oh well, wil be happy to have my nice quiet Tiggy back.

[aussietig]

Okay ... here's the thicker bracket from whiteline: