What have you done to your Gen2 Tiguan today?

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

It’ll depend what gear each dyno was run in. Some will run in 4th and some in 5th. If you want a “happy” result they’ll run it in 3rd gear


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You should always run up a car with a gear that's 1:1 - if you want less stress on the motor you would change the ramp rate.

So in the DQ500, you would select 4th gear

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

Depending on what gear is used for the run either 4/5/6 the ratio is changed to get a derived RPM output.

TCF total correction factor, this can be applied to compensate for atmospheric pressure difference depending on altitude where the car was tuned, also applied based on ambient air temperature.

TCF = 1.0 could mean (depending on what has been set as the ideal environment) ambient air temperature is 23 degrees and atmospheric pressure is registering at 100kpa.

[tigger73]

It’ll depend what gear each dyno was run in. Some will run in 4th and some in 5th. If you want a “happy” result they’ll run it in 3rd gear


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[REXman]

Good result. Nice to hear that you got your tune sorted.

Hey I just noticed on the dyno sheet, my new ratio says 4.860:1, where the old one said 3.750:1. I called up and asked about it and was told as this is a hub dyno there isn’t inertia to worry about.

Is this a thing? Any tech experts that can explain? What’s TCF?


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[tigger73]

Good result. Nice to hear that you got your tune sorted.

[REXman]

What have you done to your Gen2 Tiguan today?

Cheers everyone I will probably do the rear sway next and see if that is enough given it’s not too expensive.

In other news got my car back with the cooler and revised tune- a much more respectable 220kws! I’m super happy and the car hauls a## now!

It’s double points so I have literally only given it a bit on a short road in some back street, and the odd 2 sec burst here or there, but traction light came on and it puts you back in your chair now.

On the dyno, Jim did about 5 runs in a row and the car kept making the power figure without and drop in output, which was a testament to the CTS intercooler and tune. Heat soak is a non issue so strong repeatable power runs. Surprisingly, given how big this intercooler is compared with a stock unit, it actually gained power across the entire rev range showing that the stock one was quite restrictive.

Dyno was run on the past Friday when it was 32.5 degrees so a conservative power figure you could assume. Bring on winter!!

Photo of stock VW vs CTS intercooler.



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[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

Everyone says they like oversteer and when they have to deal with it on a day to day basis work out that it is not such a great idea after all. There are two kinds of oversteer, steady state which highly skilled drivers can utilise but usually prefer it dialled back to neutral/understeer and rear end breakaway which is out of control/wet yourself oversteer and no one likes that.

Can't agree more here! and another reason you see so many P platers cars wrapped around trees - because first suspension mod they did was find the thickest rear ARB on Whiteline catalogue to reduce body roll and activate grip, nek minnit lift off oversteer.

[Ozsko]

Get the springs right which can mean multiple sets = money ? repeated times & then get some adjustable dampers from someone who knows how to set them up on a damper dyno to suit the spring rate, Murray Coote can help there. They are not shock absorbers they are dampers as their primary job is to dampen the spring oscillation when the spring is compressed hence the point about raised spring rates and damper control. Disconnect them and take a car for a drive and you will quickly work out what they do. Carry on, just my favorite little rant when suspension is discussed. Everyone says they like oversteer and when they have to deal with it on a day to day basis work out that it is not such a great idea after all. There are two kinds of oversteer, steady state which highly skilled drivers can utilise but usually prefer it dialled back to neutral/understeer and rear end breakaway which is out of control/wet yourself oversteer and no one likes that.

[Sydneykid]

I always do the rear swaybar first (on a FWD biased 4WD), it's the best bang for buck handling upgrade by a long way. Plus if your halfway handy with a spanner it's a DIY exercise, no special tools required.

People choose springs first because of the "look" and workshops recommend springs first because they make more money.

The problem with upgrading springs only is matching them with the damper rates in the shocks. That's why OEM lowering is pretty conservative, 10mm etc. Which means that they don't need to increase the spring rate too much and the shock can cope with the small increase. When we get to 25/30mm lowering then the required spring rate increase can often be too much for the shock to control.

Cheers
Gary

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

Springs first, then see how the car handles. If it unders a bit going into corners and upgrade the rear ARB to help it turn more - however as mentioned earlier, with a thicker ARB the car will be unforgiving when driven in anger. Also remember a thicker from ARB will promote understeer.

[REXman]

So would you do the rear sway or springs first?


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[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

1.01 around WP is a fast time, regardless of type of vehicle.

However we all know the challenges in making a R33 Skyline fast around a track lol.. they're call boats for a reason.

I've gone through a few different suspension setups in the past and can safely say I've gotten it wrong a few times - however with trial and error and going outside the norms of most people's suspension modification journeys I can say putting in ARBs shouldn't be the first on the list.

(unrelated) going to see if I can do 1m5s in the Boatline soon around WP. Recently it has had a new motor/hotside setup put in as well as some additional suspension mods. Just need to get off my backside hire out a dyno and tune it.

[Ozsko]

Stiff ARB's are a trap for beginners, too much wheel lift and a planted wheel has grip which is something a lot of people forget. Yes it costs a lot to undo mistakes something else people forget and a lot of people would not think of using someone like Murray Coote. I must be getting old because I spent some time with him in NZ on a Heatway Rally back in the 70's. Our kart did 1.01 around WP with 125cc.

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

I have never seen anyone modify a car suspension and then admit they got it wrong.

I have, when I was doing heaps of track work in the R33 Skyline. Went down the while super thick af ARBs with just Bilstein shocks with springs and the car although handled well it would pitch too much on braking and lift off oversteer and/or snap oversteer.

Ended up reworking the lot and went super stiff springs (10kg front and 7kg rears) with revalved MCA coilovers and ran both front and rear ARBs on the softest settings. Ended up doing 1m9s from a 1m12s around Wakefield Park (same driver), my mate was doing consistent 1m8s in it.

So yeah wasted money and time but my experiences stiff ARBs isn't always the best solution.

[Ozsko]

There are thick books written about this stuff so educated guesses are not a good idea as these days it costs a lot of money to make a mistake which will have to be undone by spending more money. I advise anyone that is going to modify the suspension of a car to do some study and ask question of knowledgeable people first. We used to do it years ago and basically it cost us very little and no one had the knowledge then anyway or no one we knew had it and anything we did was generally an improvement on what the car manufacturer did. These days suspensions are generally engineered well and though a lot of people modify suspensions not many get the car to be better than the manufacturer as an all round answer. I have never seen anyone modify a car suspension and then admit they got it wrong.