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Anyone have experience with them and willing to share thoughts?
You would be okay with a 650 which is similar except for a lower res rear camera but is probably a fair bit cheaper. I use two in my car A DR500 which is a few years old and a DR450 in the rear. Two DR450s would be my 2nd choice.
2021 Kamiq LE 110 , Moon White, BV cameras F & B
Mamba Ebike to replace Tiguan
I have a DR650GW 2ch in my Audi A6 and it's been fantastic. So much so that I didn't hesitate putting the updated DR650S 2ch in my wife's new Tiguan when we bought it in April.
The DR750 is another improvement. They just keep getting better.
The only issue I had was an internal battery failure on the Audi camera about 18 months ago. It was way outside warranty. This "RTC" battery is used to keep the clock running and to manage the shutdown when the power is removed when you park. Customer service from Autoblackbox (the Australian distributor) was exemplary. They gave me the option of having my camera repaired, or they suggested an exchange for the same price for a faster turn around. I took the latter. It came with a 3 month warranty. The cost was around $100 if I remember correctly and that included freight.
If you're planning on using the function to record while you're parked I suggest the Celllink battery.
There is a cheaper option of a Powermagic Pro but I found this more problematic. The Powermagic is designed to run the dashcam until your car battery voltage reaches a threshold you set, say 11.5V, then cut off the power to the dashcam to prevent your battery from being completely drained. It's not reliable. After it failed to disconnect my camera, and completely drained my battery, on three occasions I ripped it out and threw it as far as I could. They're just not good enough. It also destroyed my car battery which had to be replaced. About $600. I wish I'd spent the $250 earlier and save a lot of angst.
Installation is very easy and can certainly be completed with an average technical competence level. I certainly wouldn't pay anyone to install it unless you're totally put off by tinkering. The rear cam can easily be wired such that the cable runs through the existing rubber grommets and associated pipework.
I suggest Linelink for purchase. They seem to be consistently the cheapest and will even do a great deal if you purchase everything together. Just send them an email and ask. They were also great to deal with.
I have no association with any of the dealers or products mentioned. Just happy spreading good service stories.
@IsDon - I’m seriously considering your recommendations...thanks for that.
I’ve installed head units, hard wired radar detectors etc in older vehicles, but am a bit wary of all the airbags in pillars etc of new cars. Particularly the potential to either disrupt correct deployment of airbags, or create a hazard of launching non-standard accessories at occupants.
Obviously common sense applies, but do you have any tips/pics/wisdom for correct installation that you can share please?
@IsDon - I’m seriously considering your recommendations...thanks for that.
I’ve installed head units, hard wired radar detectors etc in older vehicles, but am a bit wary of all the airbags in pillars etc of new cars. Particularly the potential to either disrupt correct deployment of airbags, or create a hazard of launching non-standard accessories at occupants.
Obviously common sense applies, but do you have any tips/pics/wisdom for correct installation that you can share please?
Wife's Tig is with her at work so can't photograph it at present.
You don't actually have to interfere with the airbags whatsoever. The camera comes with a trim removal tool, but you only use it to poke the cables into the gap between the roof trim and the windscreen and then the same gap down the A pillar. It's dead easy.
Another thing I recommend is to buy a roll of black double sided tape. The cable clips that come with the camera have light grey double sided tape which is quite obvious from outside the car. Black tape effectively makes the clips invisible.
Another suggestion is a add-a-fuse from Jaycar. This will enable you to power the camera through an existing circuit on the fuse box without having to solder or cut wires.
I have a DR650GW 2ch in my Audi A6 and it's been fantastic. So much so that I didn't hesitate putting the updated DR650S 2ch in my wife's new Tiguan when we bought it in April.
The DR750 is another improvement. They just keep getting better.
The only issue I had was an internal battery failure on the Audi camera about 18 months ago. It was way outside warranty. This "RTC" battery is used to keep the clock running and to manage the shutdown when the power is removed when you park. Customer service from Autoblackbox (the Australian distributor) was exemplary. They gave me the option of having my camera repaired, or they suggested an exchange for the same price for a faster turn around. I took the latter. It came with a 3 month warranty. The cost was around $100 if I remember correctly and that included freight.
.
I replaced both batteries in both my 400 and the 500 Cost $2.60 ea for the little battery and $3.50 ea for the Lipo and 1/2 an hour with a solder iron and a steady hand Have installed at least 6 cameras in VW, Colorado, Territory and a Courier All hard wired to the fuse blocks using these latterly.
Photos are of Front camera in the Passat and rear camera mounted on a piece of Colourbond over the roof door trim in the rear of the wagon Kept falling off the plastic.. Fuses are in the Polo with them stuck in spare slots with little fuses I got at Jaycar Not sure if they still sell them or not. Very hard to solder onto the fuses due to a surface they put on them
I replaced both batteries in both my 400 and the 500 Cost $2.60 ea for the little battery and $3.50 ea for the Lipo and 1/2 an hour with a solder iron and a steady hand
That's good to know.
Autoblackbox don't even replace the batteries in house. They send them to Korea.
I wasn't even sure how to get into the thing. Must admit I didn't try hard. Did you just work it out yourself, or did you have some guidance? If it happens again I might try to fix it myself.
Autoblackbox don't even replace the batteries in house. They send them to Korea.
I wasn't even sure how to get into the thing. Must admit I didn't try hard. Did you just work it out yourself, or did you have some guidance? If it happens again I might try to fix it myself.
Plenty of how to's on Youtube U need a fine Phillips screwdriver and a credit card and it all comes apart You need to be able to do fine soldering on circuit boards which is a bit of an acquired skill which I developed chipping Playstations in a past life LOL
2021 Kamiq LE 110 , Moon White, BV cameras F & B
Mamba Ebike to replace Tiguan
Plenty of how to's on Youtube U need a fine Phillips screwdriver and a credit card and it all comes apart You need to be able to do fine soldering on circuit boards which is a bit of an acquired skill which I developed chipping Playstations in a past life LOL
Cool, I just had a look at one. Looks pretty straightforward.
I did electronics at school (in the days when tech schools existed) so soldering is a handy skill I learned years ago. Along with fitting and machining, welding, plumbing etc that kids don't learn these days. They're great at creative writing and aboriginal studies though.
Wife's Tig is with her at work so can't photograph it at present.
You don't actually have to interfere with the airbags whatsoever. The camera comes with a trim removal tool, but you only use it to poke the cables into the gap between the roof trim and the windscreen and then the same gap down the A pillar. It's dead easy.
Another thing I recommend is to buy a roll of black double sided tape. The cable clips that come with the camera have light grey double sided tape which is quite obvious from outside the car. Black tape effectively makes the clips invisible.
Another suggestion is a add-a-fuse from Jaycar. This will enable you to power the camera through an existing circuit on the fuse box without having to solder or cut wires.
Good tips. Thanks mate.
Yep, I don’t think my Dad or Grandad ever hired a tradie for anything. The old man would even stitch us kids up to save a trip to the doc. Both left school at 15 with basic STEM and the 3Rs (Reading, ‘riting, ‘rithmetic). He can still recite log tables and 16 times tables. Political correctness escapes them both... and they don’t care.
When you fit the wiring down the A pillar it is best to run it forward along the gap between the dash end and the pillar trim then up the front of the trim beside the screen. Using the body tool you can just run it in behind the pillar trim easily. Reason is if you dont do it this way and the side airbag goes off it will blow the A pillar trim and the camera into your face Do the same along the front of the roof trim. Except on the Polo which had the edge glued down so used blutack to hold it against the front of roof trim Cant even see it if done neatly
Last tip (dont ask how i found out) is start at the camera and work back to the dash Then you can tuck the extra cable away out of sight. For the rear I ran cable along between the sill trims and the carpet then behind side trim behind rear seat and finally up under the tailgate seal and out to the camera as in the photo. Second cable is for the GPS which is mounted on left side window.
The good old edumacation. I rarely need a calculator, have worked as a builder , Telecom technician, computer fixer, part time mechanic, mens hairdresser, house renovator, Taxi & bus driver (Worst jobs ever) Jet boat driver, Tourist guide in Fiordland in NZ, restored old telephones and manual exchanges and modified games machines. Thats about all LOL
Yep, I don’t think my Dad or Grandad ever hired a tradie for anything. The old man would even stitch us kids up to save a trip to the doc. Both left school at 15 with basic STEM and the 3Rs (Reading, ‘riting, ‘rithmetic). He can still recite log tables and 16 times tables. Political correctness escapes them both... and they don’t care.
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