V6 Amarok Handling on Wet Roads

[V6 Rok]

Michelin tread wear rating is 440. Traction rating A

Thanks. I suspect this is the main issue - the Conti's are just too hard for wet road grip when you add drive forces to turning forces at slow speeds. Absolutely no contest that this ute has the worst/least safe feel on wet roads at slow speeds I've ever driven while having excellent straight line grip.
Basically the Conti's are rated to last 55% longer than the Michelins at the obvious trade off of grip level that might not be noticeable if the front wheels were not driven.

[Transporter]

At slow speeds, there shouldn’t be such a big difference between straight line and turning, just because of tyres. Otherwise, those who put aggressive off road tyres on their Amarok, wouldn’t be able to drive in wet conditions at all.

The dash cams are very good diagnostic tool as well, since they record other data about when you drive, why not upload the video in here?

[V6 Rok]

At slow speeds, there shouldn’t be such a big difference between straight line and turning, just because of tyres. Otherwise, those who put aggressive off road tyres on their Amarok, wouldn’t be able to drive in wet conditions at all.

I'd disagree with that as most offroad oriented rubber is pretty soft compound that will grip better at slow speed than high speed where the poor tread pattern for road driving become an issue.

I think I need to check the alignment and try another set of wheels/tyres.

[Transporter]

I'd disagree with that as most offroad oriented rubber is pretty soft compound that will grip better at slow speed than high speed where the poor tread pattern for road driving become an issue.

I think I need to check the alignment and try another set of wheels/tyres.

Can you upload the dash cam video in here? If your dashcam has emergency button, press it and it will give your a lot of useful data as well. Do 2 videos, wet, dry.

[V6 Rok]

Can you upload the dash cam video in here? If your dashcam has emergency button, press it and it will give your a lot of useful data as well. Do 2 videos, wet, dry.

No dash cam here but am interested in what data is available ?

Honestly, the situations that have caused the understeer are such slow, low G force, turning type of situations that have never caused any thought of concern in any type of car before. The first time I put it down to new tyres on wet roads after a series of very hot days but I'm up to almost 5K now and it's the same.

[Sharkie]

Its probably a combination of the tyres and AWD, but mostly the AWD system (and possibly alignment)

I have the exact same tyres on my Amarok. It is rare petrol model with RWD only, and I have never noticed this as a problem. My problem generally is oversteer wet or dry .....

[brad]

You are probably right about the tyres but it should be noted that the TWR number isn't comparable between manufacturers because they use an honesty system and self test so it's easy to fudge the figures.

We used to buy base model HiLux with 205/70r16 tyres and they were shockers. I could get the car to understeer in the wet at 15kph and then swap to oversteer just after the apex that was missed. You had to go in very slow or even with a dab of brake and then accelerate well past the corner apex.

Our fleet manager claimed there wasn't an issue so i took them for a drive. After that we started getting better tyres.

[V6 Rok]

As mentioned earlier, I did pit the jack under the rear diff tonight and it's just an open diff with electrically operated mechanical diff lock. Seems to drop out as soon as the solenoid looses power so had to try engaging it a few times to get it to stay engaged with the ignition off and once the wheels started to turn it dropped out. This means there's no push coming from the rear to create understeer like I'm used to with a tight LSD.

I don't think it's possible to simulate rear wheel drive only as I can't see any way to lock the center diff and remove the front tail shaft. Be good to try if it was possible though.

I think Sharkie is on the money of it being the combo of hard tyres and AWD. I just naturally assumed that AWD would be better in all scenarios but the more I read about AWD, the more it appears to be benefit in most scenarios but a hindrance in others. Should be a positive overall once I become accustomed to the limitations.

[Transporter]

As mentioned earlier, I did pit the jack under the rear diff tonight and it's just an open diff with electrically operated mechanical diff lock. Seems to drop out as soon as the solenoid looses power so had to try engaging it a few times to get it to stay engaged with the ignition off and once the wheels started to turn it dropped out. This means there's no push coming from the rear to create understeer like I'm used to with a tight LSD.

I don't think it's possible to simulate rear wheel drive only as I can't see any way to lock the center diff and remove the front tail shaft. Be good to try if it was possible though.

I think Sharkie is on the money of it being the combo of hard tyres and AWD. I just naturally assumed that AWD would be better in all scenarios but the more I read about AWD, the more it appears to be benefit in most scenarios but a hindrance in others. Should be a positive overall once I become accustomed to the limitations.

Why don’t you let the VW dealer to investigate? From what you describing it must be a nightmare to drive in wet, it’s not normal?

[V6 Rok]

I've had VW Golf's (a few of them) for the last 15 years and have come to the conclusion that the VW dealers in my area are only good for buying the cars from in the first instance. The dealer I got the first one from was very good but was soon bought out by a mutli brand dealer network and went downhill from there as their good staff left.

For example, the Amarok already has a leaking rear pinion seal @ 3500 klms. The car is driven very sedately with no off roading or towing and is averaging 8.7/100 so nothing to do with harsh useage. Sometime seals leak - I get that but the dealer can't even fix it without sending pictures to VW Australia to approve it as a warranty claim. It's an obvious oil leak on a new car and shouldn't require head office authorization to get fixed.

[Transporter]

I've had VW Golf's (a few of them) for the last 15 years and have come to the conclusion that the VW dealers in my area are only good for buying the cars from in the first instance. The dealer I got the first one from was very good but was soon bought out by a mutli brand dealer network and went downhill from there as their good staff left.

For example, the Amarok already has a leaking rear pinion seal @ 3500 klms. The car is driven very sedately with no off roading or towing and is averaging 8.7/100 so nothing to do with harsh useage. Sometime seals leak - I get that but the dealer can't even fix it without sending pictures to VW Australia to approve it as a warranty claim. It's an obvious oil leak on a new car and shouldn't require head office authorization to get fixed.

It wouldn’t bother me that they need to send the pictures. If that’s what they have to do to repair it under the warranty, it’s their business. We can’t dictate how they should conduct the business of doing the warranty claims, do we?

[V6 Rok]

It depends on your perspective I guess. It's an oil seal and a few hours labour at the most, be understandable if we were talking about expensive parts and lots of labour to fix it.

I run my own small one man business and if one of my customers had a problem with something I'd sold them I'd see it as my responsibility to make it right ASAP and then chase my supplier if they'd supplied me something faulty.

[Transporter]

It depends on your perspective I guess. It's an oil seal and a few hours labour at the most, be understandable if we were talking about expensive parts and lots of labour to fix it.

I run my own small one man business and if one of my customers had a problem with something I'd sold them I'd see it as my responsibility to make it right ASAP and then chase my supplier if they'd supplied me something faulty.

So, if you employ someone and you pay for material and his labor time, would you give him complete freedom to do what he likes? Or, would you want to see what material he is using and for what labor you pay? I know that I would and most people who manage their business well, like to know and keep record what’s done.

[Ozsko]

As mentioned earlier, I did pit the jack under the rear diff tonight and it's just an open diff with electrically operated mechanical diff lock. Seems to drop out as soon as the solenoid looses power so had to try engaging it a few times to get it to stay engaged with the ignition off and once the wheels started to turn it dropped out. This means there's no push coming from the rear to create understeer like I'm used to with a tight LSD.

I don't think it's possible to simulate rear wheel drive only as I can't see any way to lock the center diff and remove the front tail shaft. Be good to try if it was possible though.

I think Sharkie is on the money of it being the combo of hard tyres and AWD. I just naturally assumed that AWD would be better in all scenarios but the more I read about AWD, the more it appears to be benefit in most scenarios but a hindrance in others. Should be a positive overall once I become accustomed to the limitations.

But what if it has an electronic control problem that is engaging the locker when it shouldn't. I imagine that is controlled by a yaw sensor and a steering angle sensor.

[Transporter]

But what if it has an electronic control problem that is engaging the locker when it shouldn't. I imagine that is controlled by a yaw sensor and a steering angle sensor.

It doesn’t, unless the driver pushes the button the difflock is not engaged. It’s simple like that. And if there were any faults in the wiring and the switch would try to engage the difflock, the light would indicate that on dash and it’d be very violent at speed closer to 10km and above, since it is recommended to engage the difflock when the car is not moving.