Burger Motorsports JB1 Tuning Module + Cable

[ferret vrs]

From what I understand, they are not e10 compatible

If that's the case you would need to be very careful putting ethanol based fuel through the system as it's the seals and rubber components that are the difference
Being a modern car though they should be E10 compatible
Worth looking further into


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Fixxxer]

From what I understand, they are not e10 compatible

'The manufacturer (VW/Skoda) do not recommend the use of ethanol blended fuels' is different from E10 compatibility. Funny enough Audi S3's do. I gather most of this is because VW cars are spec'd for Premium (95) fuel at minimum, and not regular unleaded petrol 91 blended with E10.

The US runs up to 10% ethanol in any of its petrol fuels, Europe is 5%, so I wouldn't worry about small blending levels. Some GTI guys are running up to E30 blends.

Fixxxer

[dudgemo]

If anyone is looking for a JB4, I have one for sale; see thread JB4 for sale

[ferret vrs]

So after spending the last 5000k driving around on Map2 I have decided to trail Map 1, car is considerably more drivable around town, no longer do I have to treat the accelerator pedal like a fragile piece of glass and can now get away from the lights quickly without breaking into wheelspin [emoji322]
Will be using Map 2 for those drives in the hills and away from mr plod


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Braedz]

Seriously considering getting the JB1 for my Superb 162.

[stellio78]

Might as well go the JB4 unless you can pick up a used JB1 cheap

Burger Motorsports JB4 Performance Tune VW / Audi / Skoda – AutoInstruct

[ferret vrs]

Seriously considering getting the JB1 for my Superb 162.

JB4 will give you a much more OEM power delivery and since it also plugs into your obd port and O2 sensor it is far better at maintaining correct afr's etc
Also has the Bluetooth module for adjustments and monitoring on your phone
There is a guy on here who brought one in our group buy and decided not to fit


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Krauselet]

Might as well go the JB4 unless you can pick up a used JB1 cheapBurger Motorsports JB4 Performance Tune VW / Audi / Skoda – AutoInstruct

Selling one if anyone is interested
Rev 1 unit + data cable
$400~

[ringo]

It's a while now since the JB4 is out for the CJX engine so what are people's experiences with the JB4 on the GTI 40 / Clubsport? Preferrably compared to the JB1's operation as I'm wondering whether I should upgrade or not. Any significant differences/benefits? I am mostly interested in the permanent overboost bypass but also in a more smooth operation (if that's the case with the JB4), I've always had a bit of "rev jumping/stalling" with my JB1 when suddenly flooring it but that could also be the stock map of DSG. Anyway, all input on the JB4 on a GTI40 welcome.

[_WLF133_]

details

Hey guys.

First post here.
(MK7R DSG Wolfsburg Intake elbow, turbo muffler delete, res delete, racingline panel filter, JB1)

Has anyone else done any logging with their JB1 or 4?
I started playing around with some ethanol blend the other night and have done a few runs.

What settings are people using in map 6?
How high have you pushed it?


Ive been using 13L of United E85 mixed with their "98 octane" aswell as Nulon E85 treatment.
To date I've gone as high as +6.0 but had to dial it back down due to throttle closure during gear changes.

On that mix it was happy holding +5.8 psi @ 5000, 5500, 6000 rpm on map 6. only having throttle closure during 3rd to 4th.

Last night I was unsure of the mix.. approx 1/4 tank of the previous mix in the tank. Added 10L E85 and topped up with 98.
to be safe I added octane booster, I don't think it helped.

I played with map 6 at roll racing. Tried to push +6.0 and had to back it down.
I used some of George's advice to trim the boost from 5000 onwards. I guess maybe I was too greedy. The results were varied.
Ultimately went back to map 1, set to +5.4 and found a sweet spot. (seat of the pants)

Time to do more logging with straight pump 98.

p.s. sorry for the long post and the useless layout.
any questions let me know.

[Fixxxer]

Hi there,
We'll need more logging parameters to give you guidance. Like IAT, Ign 1, Ign 2,3,4,5, Trims.
It looks like you peak around 24psi midrange, dropping to about 18psi at high rpms. This should feel pretty strong if your maxing timing, the ethanol will help. I believe the JB1 will hold you back much further as it wont help with AFRs.
Fixxxer

[_WLF133_]

So if I log with those parameters and just share the log files here?
I did a whole heap more pulls and adjustments and logged them all. the unknown was the fuel at that point.
I'm going to run a tank of 98 and try to get some runs in with that.

Seems to prefer changing early (approx 6000)
This run is shifting early on the E20 ish with octane booster mix.

[Fixxxer]

Are you JB1 or JB4? Those images show JB4...??
Don't bother with the bottle of octane booster, you are throwing money away. Ethanol is all you need to minimise knock / timing pull, and maximise overall timing (Ign.1), especially once you go over +5.0psi which is about max on just 98RON fuel.
If you have JB4, read this thread as it explains logging and why we need to see Trims, IAT, Ign 1, Ign 2,3,4,5 in the logs. BMS JB4 R specific thread - GOLFMK7 - VW GTI MKVII Forum / VW Golf R Forum / VW Golf MKVII Forum
It is good to do a 3rd gear pull, start log at around 50km/h, go full throttle (without hitting the kickdown switch) and wind 3rd gear out to at least 6000rpm. Stop log.
Send the .csv file to George for his comments, and post the image of the run/log here if you want, showing those parameters above.

Fixxxer

[bonsquibbins]

So now we have the mk7.5 hitting our shores, is there a group buy on JB4s? You could count me in if there is..

Now, to touch on a sensitive issue - what are people's thoughts on the best time to go stage 1? A good friend tells me, whilst it should be safe with a modern engine from day 1, he would still wait until 5000km just to be sure.. Interested on what other people's thoughts are - however acknowledge that there is a good chance this subject is as murky as the debates around high fidelity audio.

I remember my Dad telling me that when he used to take delivery of a new car he would break it in using two phases. Phase one was a period of time where he would drive it really slow, not taking the revs above a certain threshold - he said this made sure the surfaces were well tempered and lubricated. Phase 2 he would do the opposite and plant it, keeping the revs high and putting the engine through its paces for an extended period - this he said loosened the engine up so it could tolerate aggressive driving in the future. Understand that this is advice from a previous era and engines are engineered at a whole new level these days.