Workshop recommendation for suspension work - Sydney area

[minke]

I sourced new OEM strut tops and bearings via AutoInstruct and fitted them myself along with 034 Motorsport lowering springs.

SACHS Strut Mount – VW Golf Mk7 Standard/GTI/R & Audi 8V A3/S3 – AutoInstruct

SACHS Strut Bearing – VW Golf Mk7 Standard/GTI/R & Audi 8V A3/S3 – AutoInstruct

These are OEM specifications made by SACHS. I assume that you picked these instead of genuine as they're a better build quality over actual VW OEM part? or is it one of those situations where the VW OEM part is actually made by SACHS? (like VW rotors are actually ATE so I've been told)

[amunra]

These are OEM specifications made by SACHS. I assume that you picked these instead of genuine as they're a better build quality over actual VW OEM part? or is it one of those situations where the VW OEM part is actually made by SACHS? (like VW rotors are actually ATE so I've been told)

says built to oem spec so probably the same as factory mount. pretty pricey at $93.. they were 50 not long ago..

I would still try the 034 higher density mount and try to make it work.. the oem mount is just going to have the same problem again

[Lucas_R]

These are OEM specifications made by SACHS. I assume that you picked these instead of genuine as they're a better build quality over actual VW OEM part? or is it one of those situations where the VW OEM part is actually made by SACHS? (like VW rotors are actually ATE so I've been told)

VW dont make many of the components on the cars (same as other car brands). They are outsourced to brands like Bosch, Continental, Pierburg, Febi, Sachs etc etc who specialise in making certain components (electronics/suspension etc). So buying "genuine VW" is literally buying a part that is made by one of these companies, and put in a VW box and given a VW part number and priced at inflated VW prices.

I would still try the 034 higher density mount and try to make it work.. the oem mount is just going to have the same problem again

^ i strongly suggest not following this advice, from someone who has actually used these 034 mounts they are crap. They knock and rattle more than your worn out ones. They increase NVH (noise, vibration and harshness) to a point that 99% of people would not find them acceptable.

[minke]

VW dont make many of the components on the cars (same as other car brands). They are outsourced to brands like Bosch, Continental, Pierburg, Febi, Sachs etc etc who specialise in making certain components (electronics/suspension etc). So buying "genuine VW" is literally buying a part that is made by one of these companies, and put in a VW box and given a VW part number and priced at inflated VW prices.



^ i strongly suggest not following this advice, from someone who has actually used these 034 mounts they are crap. They knock and rattle more than your worn out ones. They increase NVH (noise, vibration and harshness) to a point that 99% of people would not find them acceptable.

Wasn't planning to. I don't do random upgrade / part changes that deviate from factory as a rule of thumb

[amunra]

Wasn't planning to. I don't do random upgrade / part changes that deviate from factory as a rule of thumb

u will get the same result then.. the compound simply gives out very quickly

[minke]

u will get the same result then.. the compound simply gives out very quickly

Appreciate your thoughts. however, knowing full well what I will potentially get into, I tend to steer clear of anything that isn't OEM. Firstly it isn't want I'm chasing and secondly I've never been impressed moving a daily driver away from its main purpose by modifying it. With the caveat of when the vehicle is purposely modified for a reason. Rally car, racing and not a combo of daily/track fun unless you're willing to compromise.

Before I'm vilified I'd like to point out that everyone on here doesn't know what everyone else's experiences. For me if I explain my working and sporting history it would be just showboating. I'm a 47 year old with years of experience (mistakes of my making and others making) under my belt. Here's why I shy away from anything by OEM (without a very good reason)

99.9% of the time our cars are going from point A-B. In traffic, waddling along with the traffic and on, in my case, terrible inner west of Sydney roads. So for my NVH, ride quality is a high priority.

Manufacturers spend a lot of time on every new model. From ICE, to suspension, to cabin etc. Each model, on average, costs a manufacturer approx 1B USD in development to bring a car to market. They start around 5 years prior. An example is that the Mk7, released 2013 started on the drawing board around 2008. Porsche's Taycan first unit off the line cost then 8B euro I think it was.... that is end-to-end for a totally new line and does include tooling up. The most impressive figure I've been made aware of was the McLaren MP4-12C [first road car back after the McLaren F1 of long ago]. The MP4-12C was from scratch to market 1.5B USD. Fun fact. Not one part of a McLaren road car is made by them. Designed? sure. Manufactuers? nope. It is essentially a kit car. All the F1 stuff they make. Crazy to think they are world leaders in carbon fibre but send out to have the road car stuff made

Sone manufactures actually bring a 'World' configured model to Australia and have local engineers provide feedback before launching locally. The Australian engineers can (super rarely) alter the world configuration but always end up with a local tune of ICE/Gearbox/active dampers/steering feel and speed. (not VW)

Some tune to wheel size so changing after market wheels (weight change and/or rim size) on these cars can be detrimental to the overall package. (not VW)

Some tune to the actual tyre. The lowest price point example I know of was the Mk4 Focus RS with the 'black' wheels. They were lightened wheels to accommodate the Cup 2s additional weight that it was delivered with. Anyone who has one of those cars with the black wheels (silver wheels were PS4) not running Cup 2s are doing a disservice to the engineering team lead by Tyrone Johnson (ex Ford WRC engineer, ex Ford F1 engineer and project lead on the RS Focus and Mustang) and will feel the car being soft as the spring/damper was soften to accommodate the super stiff sidewall of the Cup 2s and the change in unsprung weight will also change the originally engineered driving experience.

Recently been made aware that Hyundai N (not N line) are also tuned to the tyre and wheel size.

Anyhow... i digress. The manufacturers end goal is to build a car as cheap as possible but one that doesn't come back with costs of issues covered under "warren's-tree" (warranty) Plenty of times they get it wrong. VW dry clutch. VW 1.4 TSI Mk6 engine. Ford Powershift DCT, KIA/Hyundai engines catching fire in the Sportage I think it was. but all in all a reliable product is the end goal.

Body control is made is made up of
* Dampers
* Springs
* Strut tops
* Control arms (and some have upper and lower) bushes
* Wheel size (which drives sidewall height)
* tyres (sidewall stiffness / squareness)
* ECM (depending on manufacturer as some have active engine mounts)
* and the squab

All of this is engineered to provide an experience that the engineers (and bean counters) set out to achieve at the beginning which is, in Golf's case, a daily driver that can be fun.

One of the reasons why I bought this Golf (and previous Mk6) is that I like its road manners and when pushed won't be as fast as its competitors in this space but is still thrilling but at the end of the day when back in non-wanker model it is a lovely day to day unit.

When you start changing one component in a chain that serves a overall purpose (ride quality/NVH/body control) you can then end up finding the other components being found wanting or stressed and early failure (because that new component is not longer breathing with the car so that energy needs to be absorbed elsewhere) So you end up in this spiral of chasing this and that. Why give yourself that headache? is what I ask myself

Given all of that. Of all the things I would change in my (wife's) GTI is the brakes. They are over served. There are other manufactures in this space that do a much much better job. Would I change it? no because the only time I would want the feel that it lacks is when on a track... and I use other's cars for that.

There was a second thing that frustrates me with VWs I've owned. Why do our cars get so hot (oil temp) Other manufactuers can regulate this just fine. I've had my Mk6 previously sitting on 125 degrees with wife, kid, some luggage on the highway in 35 ambient. The current mk 7,5 seems to do the same. I've never understood why they run the oil so hot.

[Lucas_R]

I sourced new OEM strut tops and bearings via AutoInstruct and fitted them myself along with 034 Motorsport lowering springs.

SACHS Strut Mount – VW Golf Mk7 Standard/GTI/R & Audi 8V A3/S3 – AutoInstruct

SACHS Strut Bearing – VW Golf Mk7 Standard/GTI/R & Audi 8V A3/S3 – AutoInstruct

Just found these which are a good deal cheaper than the ones i posted above and by an OEM brand (Febi) OEM Repair Kit, Suspension Strut Front 5Q0412331D

[minke]

Just found these which are a good deal cheaper than the ones i posted above and by an OEM brand (Febi) OEM Repair Kit, Suspension Strut Front 5Q0412331D

I'm sure I'm not the only one who appreciates your effort and input. cheers