GTi axle tramp under acceleration

[Ryan_R]

Sounds good. Volkspower have them in stock so will pick one up on Saturday and fit it later on when I chuck in the Intercooler. Gotta get VW to check something out first so would rather keep the engine bay looking stock for that.

I recall you saying you upgraded to the GTI but just wasn't sure if you also had a TAI in the 1.4TSI. I'm of the mind that I should upgrade to the GTI one day too but think I'll at least wait for the Mk7 to arrive before making my mind up, plus it will be hard to say goodbye to my somewhat unique Golf (I've never seen one exactly like, or even similar to mine).

[driftn]

My previous ride was an APR Tuned Pirelli
It used to wheel hop like a MF from a standing start
Always wanted to try the TAI or Whiteline ALK as other golfers reported improvements with one or both fitted.

If buying the TAI make sure you get the correct DURO rating to ensure you dont introduce too much noise & vibration in the cabin. Other guys on here should let you know which one is best....

[Ryan_R]

APR recommend 90DURO for DSG and 80 for Manual - I assume that's all I need to go by?

[peedman]

If I were you i would err on the side of comfort and go 80 regardless of transmission. BSH one is 78a FYI.

[Brendan_A]

Ryan, my brother has the 90duro in his GTI dsg and when he first collected the car after installation he thought the car was stuffed! The vibrations through the cabin were pretty bad, especially when cold and on take off. The improvements are too good so he can live with it. . Since it has done about 10k Kms it has settled down ok.

I have the 80duro in my manual and it was no where near as bad as my brothers car. Mine has settled in quite nicely. Can feel some vibration when the clutch is engaging and when the AC pump comes on.

It does make a big difference but make sure you want to go down that path.

[Ryan_R]

If there was a hypothetical DURO number for stock does anyone know that would be to help put things in perspective? Thanks for the feedback.

[Guy_H]

Stock Duro is not an easy number - because of the design, you have an upper & lower mount, and the "insert" or stiffener" fills the void in the stock mount. Rubber itself is about 30 duro (stock), but they change the movement or "actual duro" by cutting holes in the stock mounts which allow more or less movement - but what most of the accessory versions (including ours) do is fill the factory "voids". We did a fair bit of testing back in 07' to come up with the 80 & 90 duro versions (after seeing some imported versions increasing stiffness by over 300%), and our insert only goes in the lower mount where some go through both.

Any time you stiffen an engine mount, you will change the NVH unless you go to something like Porsche have done with "active" engine mounts. Simple answer. buy a new GT# & get the best of both worlds

[Ryan_R]

GT#?

I would've guessed GTI but the I is nowhere near the #

[MACCAA]

GT#?

I would've guessed GTI but the I is nowhere near the #

But 3 is....

[Ryan_R]

Fair enough. Not a massive Porsche fan.

[MrGTIandRfan]

In short, what can I do to remove/lessen the axle tramp 'issue' besides controlling my right foot? (I am very much a newbie when it comes to suspension modifications).

I find that I can avoid it if I baby the car into motion and then go hard on the accelerator.

I don't recall any axle tramp issues with the Scirocco R that I drove and I was quite liberal with my right foot.

[Guy_H]

the hop happens on the "verge" of breaking / making traction. A little bit of wheel spin stops it (and stops bogging) - illegal in QLD!

One thing to check is tyre pressures - higher will have slightly less grip. Also raise your revs (if you can) - or the opposite, stay lower than the "breaking" point. Porsche 911 & 986 & 987's have the problem bad, wheel spin is their answer........