Canadian new to OZ - TDI or TSI, which is for me???

[kaanage]

The OP really needs to drive them to ultimately decide as the characteristics are quite different. The early torque peak of diesels (not the peak torque figure) make them supremely relaxed in high gears as additional loading moves slows the engine into a higher torque region, so it requires less shifting in hills (that said, the OP wants DSG so the 'box will take care of this).

I love high output revvy engines but my cars are now diesels and I don't regreat the change (not often anyway )

The other thing is that while a petrol engine may be almost as economical as a diesel in easy driving, if you like to floor it, the diesel will maintain its economy rate far better than a petrol - my Polo still averages close to 14 l/100km (17mpg) when being thrashed around Winton racetrack and does 12 l/100km (20 mpg US) at Phillip Island because the track is more flowing.

[SMOK3Y]

Mine doesn't:


At least for MY12 you get unlimited km.

same as my 11.5 90tsi

also the 90tsi has 200nm from 1500-4/4500
it honestly pulls best from 3-5000 but does
pull well below 3000 give it a tune it then has
260nm of torque & extra 20kw nothing huge but
would make it alot more drivable.

[bugsalanko]

I stand corrected it was my old my09 polo TDI that had the
3 year/ 100 000km warranty

Mine doesn't:


At least for MY12 you get unlimited km.

[rossw]

same as my 11.5 90tsi

also the 90tsi has 200nm from 1500-4/4500
it honestly pulls best from 3-5000 but does
pull well below 3000 give it a tune it then has
260nm of torque & extra 20kw nothing huge but
would make it alot more drivable.

So I could spend a lot of cash voiding its warrranty and making it go nearly as fast as a 118TSI that also comes with more features and better wheels?

[SMOK3Y]

no need to be sarcastic just sayin thats all, tune gives better economy too.
so no need for attitude...

[Idle]

That fuel range is unbelievable on only 55 litres!!! WOW!
Thanks again for all the help, especially with the warranty questions.
I don't think I've ever been a member of an auto forum where every reply has been helpful.

Side note, I found a website called Pickles.com.au and from the site, can see that they are an auction. Has anyone ever purchased from them? It again comes back to warranty, anyone know if the factory warranty would be transferred through them as well? Some of the deals seem too good to be true...

No, there's not usually a warranty on items sold at auction — as a rule that's why they're auctioned. In fact the fair trading laws here specifically exclude auctions, so you're very much on your own.

Having said that, if you don't mind such things as hail damage and inability to get comprehensive insurance cover, you can often get a very good deal by picking up a repairable (make sure it's classified 'repairable'...) insurance write-off.

Last year we bought a station wagon with hail damage you have to look carefully to even find for well under a third of the going dealer price — getting it re-registered was somewhat of a hassle but well worth it in the end, the thing drives like brand new.

You do need to know what you're looking at and have your wits about you at the auction, tho'.

I can also vouch for the fuel mileage from TDI 103's, and they are a nice drive.

[wai]

Ok, diesel is more expencive than Standard ULP, but the same as or cheaper than Premium ULP which most in the VW range are required to use. On top of that, even if Standard ULP is acceptable, in the capital cities, it is E10, and that is the biggest load of rubbish around (there was an article in the RACV Royal Auto magazine confirming this), so you end up having to use PULP until the governments end up fiddling with that.

So cost wise, there is not much in it and it favours diesel. Also, diesel prices do not have the same price cycle fluctuations.

On the DSG, there are issues, but remember that those who post here are just a fraction of VW owners. If the problems here were representative of all DSG VW's, VW would have gone out of business a long while ago. Remember that the DSG is used across the entire VW/Audi/SEAT/Skoda range.

Yes, the diesel and the DSG cost more, but in my opinion are worth it. I have a Caddy Maxi Life TDI250 with a 7-speed DSG.

[MapleMan]

More food for thought...

I'm going to go to a local VW dealer here in Canada and test both the petrol and diesel Golf and see how they perform. Although our diesel here is a 2.0L so I'm sure it'll feel a bit stronger. But either way, just to get a feel of sorts. The issue with consumption being pretty close is an interesting one, and I think it will just boil down to drivability and fun factor.

With respect to Pickles, if the warranty is not there, it's not even an option. To save a few $$$ and have no warranty is not an option for me. And actually, the cars I was looking at had fixed prices so I'm not sure if they are regarded the same as an actual auctioned vehicle? Either way, I emailed them with some questions and will see what they say. If no response, no business.

I'm just going to wait for new years to pass and visit the local VW dealer here. When I arrive in OZ, buying the car will be a rushed thing, so I'm not sure how much time I'll have to test drive, etc. although a quick spin in both shouldn't be an issue.

Thanks again everyone!!!

[kaanage]

I'm going to go to a local VW dealer here in Canada and test both the petrol and diesel Golf and see how they perform.

Excellent idea.

Although our diesel here is a 2.0L so I'm sure it'll feel a bit stronger.

Aside from the Bluemotion model (which is only available as a manual), all the diesel Golfs here are 2.0L, too.

[MapleMan]

Excellent idea.


Aside from the Bluemotion model (which is only available as a manual), all the diesel Golfs here are 2.0L, too.

Cool, I don't know what but I thought they were 1.3L's. Thanks

---------- Post added 30-12-2011 at 02:20 AM ---------- Previous post was 29-12-2011 at 08:13 AM ----------

I've been looking through the common car sales websites and have noticed that some of the vehicles being sold brand new, say underneath the price "Drive Away No More to Pay." When I click that "saying," it explains that the price is inclusive of government charges such as stamp duty. My question is, if this is the final price I pay, what more will I be paying to drive the vehicle? Am I just looking at insurance and nothing else???

The other question for all you guys is in haggling the price down. If I'm looking at say a TSI DSG Comfortline going for $34K, what do you guys think would be the best price that I could (or should expect) to get for it? This car doesn't have any satellite radio or GPS/navi options - looks pretty basic for that model.

Thanks!

[rossw]

I've been looking through the common car sales websites and have noticed that some of the vehicles being sold brand new, say underneath the price "Drive Away No More to Pay." When I click that "saying," it explains that the price is inclusive of government charges such as stamp duty. My question is, if this is the final price I pay, what more will I be paying to drive the vehicle? Am I just looking at insurance and nothing else???

The other question for all you guys is in haggling the price down. If I'm looking at say a TSI DSG Comfortline going for $34K, what do you guys think would be the best price that I could (or should expect) to get for it? This car doesn't have any satellite radio or GPS/navi options - looks pretty basic for that model.

Thanks!

Not sure on the price, but yes "driveaway, no more to pay" means just that. The rules changed here a while ago. Prior to that prices were "list price" to which you had to add dealer delivery, registration, stamp duty, etc. etc.

This added up to a significant amount and it was thus made illegal to quote anything other than the actual drive away price. The new rule is why it can be hard to find prices quoted on line now, because it can vary depending on what state and even what postcode you live in.

Carsales.com.au is not supported by all dealers, so you may want to check that.

[wai]

I've been looking through the common car sales websites and have noticed that some of the vehicles being sold brand new, say underneath the price "Drive Away No More to Pay." When I click that "saying," it explains that the price is inclusive of government charges such as stamp duty. My question is, if this is the final price I pay, what more will I be paying to drive the vehicle? Am I just looking at insurance and nothing else???

A "Drive away no more to pay" price only requires you to arrange your own "comprehensive" insurance. The drive away price includes the compulsory 3rd party personal injury insurance, but does not cover damage to property. You will have to arrange that yourself. All other costs are covered by the drive away price. You also have no choice in the compulsory 3rd party insurance as the dealer generally gets a "commssion" from the insurer. If you want your own insurer, it can cost quite a bit more.

On getting the price down, coming from overseas, it will be difficult to get an association membership discount. You might be able to get an employer arranged discount however. This can be as much as 10% of the base price. This can also entitle you to dealer delivery discounts. One thing you should be definitely able to extract is the 3rd party insurer "commission".

Sale prices are not taken down that much as there are queues to buy. The month after a sale can be better as there are very few sales so sales guys can be desparate for buyers. Basically, if you have the money or finance arranged, then you can make a deal at any time. You have the money and would LIKE to buy a car, and they have the car that they HAVE to sell because each day it sits unsold it costs the dealer and importer money.

[MapleMan]

The car I want is actually on their lot so it would be to my advantage. Plus I would be paying with cash up front so I will be ready to buy when I arrive. Just curious, but with respect to the commission mentioned on the CTP insurance, how much can I save? As in, if the car is $34K, how low can I bring them generally? Are we talking a grand? More or less?

I'm stumped because here in Canada we can easily negotiate a cars price down a couple grand usually, especially if it's on the lot.

With insurance, do I need to call an insurer (doing a google and I found AAMI? Any good?) before I purchase the car and arrange for insurance or is this something the dealer does too on my behalf? I'm assuming it's something I arrange after the vehilce purchase, which is how it's done here. We don't have CTP here in Canada, as all insurance is comprehensive - the only difference is deductible and liability amounts. And saying that, you can't drive a car away from the dealership unless you provide proof of insurance.

I suppose the real question is, do I go about buying a car like this in OZ: locate car and purchase with bank draft. Call AAMI (or equivalent) and inform them of purchase and purchase insurance. Go back to dealer, and drive car away Sound correct?

Thanks AGAIN!!!

[wai]

Just curious, but with respect to the commission mentioned on the CTP insurance, how much can I save? As in, if the car is $34K, how low can I bring them generally? Are we talking a grand? More or less?

On my car, the dealer passed all of the "commission" which came to $2,910.

The other discounts I got for being a member of Engineers Australia were $3,990 and a dealer delivery charge of $1,450.

With insurance, do I need to call an insurer (doing a google and I found AAMI? Any good?) before I purchase the car and arrange for insurance or is this something the dealer does too on my behalf? I'm assuming it's something I arrange after the vehilce purchase, which is how it's done here. We don't have CTP here in Canada, as all insurance is comprehensive - the only difference is deductible and liability amounts. And saying that, you can't drive a car away from the dealership unless you provide proof of insurance.

Allianz has the vast majority of drive away CTP insurance. On comprehensive insurance, you can get it from anywhere. If you want to arrange your own CTP insurance, then you would have to negotiate this with your dealer.

Basically, it will take a few days to get the car ready, so you make the deal, place a deposit, sign a contract to purchase and then wait for the call to say it is ready. The contract will have all the price details set out so you can organise the comprehensive insurance for this over the phone during the days it takes to get the car ready. The dealer will arrange registration and CTP (unless you want to do this yourself). They don't mind if you do not have comprehensive insurance as it is your expense if any property is damaged.

[MapleMan]

Wow! So if my math is correct, you saved $8350??? If that's right, that is incredible! With respect to your discount with Engineers Australia, is that something that the EA offers, or is that something that the dealership offered because you were a member of a professional organization? I too am a (health) professional and wonder if I could get a similar discount...