118TSI - General Discussion

[Corey_R]

"Defined Test Drive
Suggested test drive after replacing the mechatronic or successful basic setting:

ATF Temperature 30...100 °C (86...210 °F).
Drive in Tiptronic Mode from stand still up to 6th Gear.
While doing that make sure to drive in Gears 3 or 5 for approx. 5 minutes and also in 4 or 6 for approx. 5 minutes.
The engine speed window for all gears is 1200 - 3500 RPM (for clutch calibration).
Perform one sharp braking followed by a full throttle acceleration (oil return check).
Evaluate creep and starting-off points."

C.

Seriously... where in NSW is this 'test track' that the VW dealers would be using to perform this procedure! To drive from a standstill, and make their way up to 6th gear, but taking at least 10 minutes to do so because they need to drive in 3 or 5 for five and then 4 or 6 for five. hehe

[pologti18t]

Maybe this trick is acuatally recalibrating the throttle/throttle position sensor.

[RW1]

Maybe this trick is acuatally recalibrating the throttle/throttle position sensor.

Possibly but why does it affect the clutch engagement in creep mode and initial set-off.. The engine RPM hasn't changed. Also noticed the DSG clutches engage immediately on foot brake release no matter whether setting off or creeping along with no throttle pressed. As said it needs someone with ELSA to look at the DSG set up (& throttle).

C.

[logger]

"Defined Test Drive
Suggested test drive after replacing the mechatronic or successful basic setting:

ATF Temperature 30...100 °C (86...210 °F).
Drive in Tiptronic Mode from stand still up to 6th Gear.
While doing that make sure to drive in Gears 3 or 5 for approx. 5 minutes and also in 4 or 6 for approx. 5 minutes.
The engine speed window for all gears is 1200 - 3500 RPM (for clutch calibration).
Perform one sharp braking followed by a full throttle acceleration (oil return check).
Evaluate creep and starting-off points."

C.

RW1, What you are describing here is the process to fast adapt the DSG6 AFTER it has been successfully reset to basic settings. As you have alluded there is a similar but distinctly different sequence for the DSG7. It of course omits the oil return check (as it has dry clutches) and adds quite a bit of other stuff.

The test run is a perfectly valid thing to do to speed up DSG adaption post reset, which would happen over time in any case. But importantly this drive process in itself does not reset the DSG. To this I think you alluded to as well.

My skepticism is purely about the idea of holding the accelerator to the floor for ten seconds with the IGN OFF or On or however different people explain to do it. (Maybe with with rear left door open or the fuel door open)....and then your DSG is miraculously reset and it will behave much better This is the bit I reckon is BS My guess is you would actually need a diagnostisic tool like VagCom to reset the DSG to basic settings. As always I am happily to be proven wrong though if someone can quote a source to say this does reset the gearbox to basic settings.

Actually I will just test it myself with my VagCom and will report back, but I am highly skeptical that it will reset the adaptions.

With regard to you test runs you did, none of them were actually complete tests for the DSG7. So it may just be that by the time you had done the latter one that included the throttle to the floor with IGN OFF that all the missing items on the test checklist had actually been complete. Reversing and using tiptronic for example are required and you may have used them in the interim. So your accelerator trick may have had no bearing on the result. You could have honked the horn instead of pressing the accelerator to the floor with the keys in your lap and you may have seen the same improvement.

Assuming this Pedal to the floor to reset process is indeed an urban myth... I believe it may have evolved from a step in the fast adaption process to drive with different pedal positions. Including momentarily at 100% pedal so that the controller can recognise the value for full acceleration. Maybe the myth has grown out of that?
This requirement is similar to the way all the other actuators for gear selection and clutches must cycle so the controller can recognise and adapt to their respective end positions.

It is also possible that the mechatronic controller in some way continuously treats the required items in the fast adaption drive like a check list. So completing all items with out an actual reset via a diagnostic tool may significantly speed adaption. So there may be benefit to doing the drive sequence without doing a DSG reset, when compared to another vehicle that has not recently "seen" all the test item occur.

[RW1]

Cheers Logger, I'm still unsure as I can't find anything on the net about this other than this forum website. But the character of the car has distinctly changed for better and now a dream to drive.

Didn't do all that Ross Tech drive I posted. Just up the gears to 70 mph, drive at 70mph for 2 miles, then back down all the gears to 1st, coming to an absolute halt on brakes followed by a creep of about 20 feet. The acceleration section was about half throttle from the 20 - 70mph, 2nd to 7th. Same without the full throttle depression holding/ignition off had no effect.

Drove the car this morning and still it drives differently. The gear changes are seamless and you can't tell its changing unless you look at the dash indicator. It also holds 1st gear longer upto 2,000 rpm where as before it couldn't wait to get to second and always changed immediately as setting off.

Also notice that went accelerating under 1/4 throttle it holds the engine between 1,800 & 2,400 rpm in 2nd to 6th gears where are before it was much broader 1,400 - 3,000rpm.

So it be interesting to hear about your investigations as my VAGCOM PC is u/s at the moment.

The key really is what is in the VW ELSA service manuals???????

C.

[logger]

I reckon this thread is going way off the original topic. I am extremely happy with my 118TSI by the way.

So I have continued the DSG7 reset discussion over here at DSG7 OAM Vag Com data logs

[vwsp]

Yes - I am very happy with my 118TSI. The experience has been tarnished with a few problems, though:

• A stuck (broken) speedometer needle at with just a few hundred k's on the clock (fixed - instrument cluster replaced)
• B Pillar door plastic clicking/ticking noise (fixed - dealer insulated plastic)
• Creak under the car when accelerating at low speed (fixed - something installed incorrectly which was rubbing on the exhaust heat shield?)
• "Defect Brake Servo" warning message appears on startup sometimes (not fixed and waiting to hear back from dealer)

Hopefully this will be the extent of problems! I can now enjoy the car and having previously owned a Golf 5 2.0TDI I am very impressed with the Golf 6 118TSI. Everything is either much more refined, smoother and/or quieter.

The Park Assist feature is probably a novelty but does the job as expected. Friends just don't believe you when you tell them that the car can park itself - and then the steering wheel takes over - and they sit there in disbelief!

The Sport Pack with the 17 inch wheels give a firm but still very comfortable ride. Usually larger wheels begin to destroy ride quality but this suspension is great!

Speaking of which, must go and take it for a spin!

[Stelex]

Reset on 7 speed DSG:
With Engine and Gearbox at or near the normal working temperature.
No igniton on, key out of steering lock. Press accelerator full home until the switch is felt at the bottom and hold it with the switch "on" for 10+ seconds. I used 20 seconds to be sure.

Now drive it normally in DSG "D" mode but ensure you drive this sequence. In the first few minutes take it from low speed (20mph) all the way upto 70mph and 7th gear and then back down to a stop. Coming back down can be the next junction a couple of miles down the way so no need to block the highway. Let it creep at 5mph-ish under no throttle condition while in 1st gear for a few feet (20 feet) to learn that. Job done.

C.

Has anyone tried this?

Is it something official, cause ive never heard of a dealer say this

My biggest concern was that when I set off from a stand-still I had two options:

1. press accelerator really hard, and the car almost runs away from you. Pretty ugly and unsafe.

2. press acc as you would with any other car, i.e. normally, the car takes off nicely, then after about 1 second switches to the 2nd gear. THIS is where the problem is - there is a gap of about half a second before the second gear engages fully. It feels like engine chokes, like there is no fuel supply, it just sucks, it's ugly and totally unsafe when merging at a busy roundabout.

So I did as described above. Pulled over, took the key out of ignition, pressed acc all the way down and clicked the switch and held it there for about 20 seconds.

(Some forum members rubbished this method, but many electronic devices work with push-and-hold for 2 or 5 seconds or longer. The key out of lock also makes sense, I remember the instructions to set the clock on my Magna was to take the key OUT of ignition, then press the up and down arrows to set the clock. Or press and hold both simultaneously to reset the minutes to zero. I think my Camry had something similar when programming central locking, one door or all doors)

Then I started the engine, took off in "D" and drove it very gently accelerating to about 110km/h, kept it there for a minute or two, then gently slowed down to the full stop. This did include rather longish D1 creep of about 200m at almost no speed.

Then I turned the engine off, pulled the key out and waited a few seconds before starting it again and taking off.

I've done this about two weeks ago and made about 800km meanwhile.

The result? Every time I take off from standstill I cannot help myself but to whisper - BEAUTIFUL! The car goes soooooo smooth, it's no joke, perfect switch and perfect pull from D1 to D2 to D3 and all the way up to D7.
Absolutely perfect. Whatever it resets, whatever it does - it does it right.

There ...

[118TSI]

Interesting result you have had there, been driving an B7 Audi A4 2.0 7sp DSG as a loner car will my car arrives, and if you just floor it from take off, no response for about 1.5 secs, dangerous if your crossing a road. and jerky when driving at very low speed

Gonna try your method when I get mine tomorrow! will report back with pics, and a report!

[Stelex]

I had my Golf (118 TSI DSG) in for warranty repairs, three things; very noisy air-con unit and not cooling efficiently, squeaky metal noise when pressing accelerator and clicking in the b pillar. Picked up the car and they said: The air-con noise is not air con, it's super charger and it's within tolerance level and air-con is cooling OK, the metal noise is normal sound of the magnetic clutch and they lubricated the door seal to fix the clicking noise from the b-pillar. Ahem ...

Asked to get one of the better mechanics to sit with me for a drive.

Showed him that the air-con IS the noisy part, that is stops when I switch it off and that it has nothing to do with s-charger as it does it all the time, including idling. And it's about 3 times louder than the engine, so it's cactus. He agreed we need to replace the unit.

Demonstrated the noise when pressing accelerator, he said that the noise of this is scary and it's far louder than the click you hear from magnetic clutch on s-charger, this is like a squeak of metal against metal, very high pitch, very loud. So it needs to be replaced (whatever it was).

The clicking noise came back after two days, loud and clear, just as lovely as always, so they'll be taking off the plastic big time.

They said they will order the parts and it may take a little while since some of them need to come from Germany (!?). They said they will contact me when the parts are here to arrange appointment and a loan car. It's been 3 weeks now, will call them on Monday as my 15k service will be due in about few weeks.

Needles to say, air con is completely dead, the air that comes through is normal outside or inside air and you can hear gargling sound (out of gas).

Also asked them how much the 15k service costs, they said $409 ... laughed it off as a mechanic who services VW and Audis in Brisbane quoted me $250. They said though - let us know when it's due, maybe the boss can do something about the price ... so let's wait and see.

So, pretty Not Happy Jen - but will wait and see how it goes with the service and warranty repair. Also got the software update/recall letter today, will do it at the same time.

[russ83]

YES! Car is AWE-SOME!

But, unhappy with
- vw dealer delivery service
- rear quarter paint work fubar-ed on delivery, hence 2 trips to the other side of sydney for a buff aka repair, not good enough

[hooba]

YES! Car is AWE-SOME!

But, unhappy with
- vw dealer delivery service
- rear quarter paint work fubar-ed on delivery, hence 2 trips to the other side of sydney for a buff aka repair, not good enough

Where did you buy you car?

[118TSI]

LOVING IT!!! Picked it up this afternoon, and have loved every minute of it, only issue was the delivery guy kept showing me the windscreen wipers(sensing wipers, hi, lo, and when car is parked under the tree function) wanted to punch him in the face for putting the wipers on a dry windscreen, drive is awesome, even though have only done 20kms in the car, looking forward to tomorrow, and going for a drive in the eastern subuirbs of sydney for a better drive,

Bottom line from all the dramas of the dealership experience, cant wipe the smile off the face on how good this car is!!!!

LOVING IT!!!!

[roy]

good car overall...my wife and i like it!!!

[2volks]

Had mine since April 09. Couldn't be happier. It is brilliant around town, even better on long trips. Make sure you get the Sports Pack.