Boost issues

[BLKMKV]

hey all, i getting sick and tired of my car having inconsistent boost issues. i currently have a forge diverter valve fitted which seems to give different boost levels depending on its mood.

what is the best and most consistent method of controlling boost with a stage 3 car?

1. stock diverter valve
2. aftermarket diverter, leaning towards turbosmart plumb back
3. boost controller like an Eboost 2
4. or the full turbosmart setup, plumb back and Eboost?

any help and or ideas are welcome, i am way over this issue, is it too much to ask to have all the power you have, when you want it?

[BLKMKV]

ive had the forge diverter apart and regreased/cleaned it and it has the blue 25-30lb spring in it, also no boost leaks evident

[Guy_H]

Stock revision DV is by far the best - we would NEVER recommend an aftermarket valve - especially on a stage 3 car. Every car we have had with boost inconsistency issues was put down to aftermarket DV's.

The stock DV will easily handle 40PSI of boost, reliable, day in, day out.

Also, if you have not replaced your PCV & MAF sensor, and don't know when they were replaced, we advise to change those too. Stage 3 requires all sensors to be working at their optimum levels!

[Lucas_R]

I've read posts about people with the Forge DV's having issues - i'd remove that.

Guy, what do you think of the GFB DV+? I have one of these on my car and it's works well. http://www.gfb.com.au/products/blow-...cations-by-gfb

It utilises the stock electronic solenoid, but upgrades the piston, springs and base.

[Guy_H]

Lucas, We have not had one personally on our car, but we have had 2 customers remove them because they throw a P2261 N249 "Mechanical Malfunction" code and check engine lights.

I assume this is because they cannot react as fast because of the piston mass & spring change. When the check engine light comes, its a bit of a worry as to what causes it (most of our customers don't carry a diagnostic tool with them), so personally, you are better off with the bulletproof factory unit that doesn't throw faults.

[Lucas_R]

Lucas, We have not had one personally on our car, but we have had 2 customers remove them because they throw a P2261 N249 "Mechanical Malfunction" code and check engine lights.

I assume this is because they cannot react as fast because of the piston mass & spring change. When the check engine light comes, its a bit of a worry as to what causes it (most of our customers don't carry a diagnostic tool with them), so personally, you are better off with the bulletproof factory unit that doesn't throw faults.

I wonder if the cause of the check engine light on these cars was due to the original solenoid plunger and plunger spring that came with the first batch of these DV+'s, which were soon found to cause issues on the Golf R's with the valves leaking boost (apparently ok on GTI's with the turbo mounted DV's). I experienced the leaking boost on my own car as i had one of the first batch of the DV+'s...it was a very obvious leak. So GFB revised the plunger and spring (longer plunger and stiffer spring) and voila - all fixed. No errors or any issues what so ever - holds boost like a champ.

Not to say it won't potentially cause issues down the track, but for now, its working brilliantly.

The Turbosmart Kompact DV's are also getting popular for the GTi and R now that they have a specific one for VW's. Personally i dont like these though as i think the electronic unit is more efficient/faster to react.

[Guy_H]

Don't personally know (Solenoids) - we only get to hear about it to fix peoples problems!

My thoughts are not to put on a potential problem cause if there is absolutely no need.

From memory, I have only seen 2 or 3 faulty solenoids on DV's in the thousands of cars with that system that we have worked on. We don't even carry a spare in the race team box anymore!

[BLKMKV]

Problem solved, replaced the forge dv with a stock unit and the golf has it's mojo back


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[h100vw]

Problem solved, replaced the forge dv with a stock unit and the golf has it's mojo back


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For the forum's reference, what was wrong with the Forge DV?

Gavin

[BLKMKV]

For the forum's reference, what was wrong with the Forge DV?

Gavin

in appearance i could not find anything wrong with it, body/piston and orings all seemed fine. not so sure about the electronic bit with it, this is the culprit imo, though not proven. it just caused me endless headaches with inconsistent boost levels. one day it would be fine then the next, three different boost levels at three different sets of lights in the same trip

[Guy_H]

Problem solved, replaced the forge dv with a stock unit and the golf has it's mojo back


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For the forum's reference, what was wrong with the Forge DV?

Gavin

in appearance i could not find anything wrong with it, body/piston and orings all seemed fine. not so sure about the electronic bit with it, this is the culprit imo, though not proven. it just caused me endless headaches with inconsistent boost levels. one day it would be fine then the next, three different boost levels at three different sets of lights in the same trip

That's our exact experience, and it's been happening for years - I don't think anyone has ever worked out what goes on, when you dismantle the valves they look fine, when assembled they seem to stick or malfunction intermittently. Best to stick with stock & save your troubleshooting forever.

[BLKMKV]

Amen to that


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[Tarmac]

The factory DV works specifically with certain maps in the ECU. The Factory DV is very good until you get to very high boost levels then it is best to be changed. BUT you must modify the relating maps for it to give the boost performance and response with no fault codes.

[Guy_H]

The factory DV works specifically with certain maps in the ECU. The Factory DV is very good until you get to very high boost levels then it is best to be changed. BUT you must modify the relating maps for it to give the boost performance and response with no fault codes.

What level of boost do you suggest changing it at? (And which maps do you change when you change out DV's?), we certainly have tested the stock unit to over 38PSI on continuous dyno testing, and on a couple of our current cars we run 36PSI all day everyday on the stock DV (plastic piston).

Curious about the benefit.

[Tarmac]

What level of boost do you suggest changing it at? (And which maps do you change when you change out DV's?), we certainly have tested the stock unit to over 38PSI on continuous dyno testing, and on a couple of our current cars we run 36PSI all day everyday on the stock DV (plastic piston).

Curious about the benefit.

I would suggest once you are holding 28+ PSI to redline you should change the DV. I would like to see a standard DV hold 36psi from 4000rpm to 8000rpm without cracking open. I say this because ive done it, and it cracks open. I assume your not talking about boost spikes. Its not just about WOT power, we have tested a few DV's with several different spring rates and different people have all noticed better partial throttle response. Especially with DSG cars. So light throttle driving can be approved.

Regarding adjusting the maps for DV response, im surprised you dont know. Of course, i cannot share that information for obvious reasons.