2008 gt d problems?????

[DOUBLECAB]

It's a potential issue on all mk5 gt tdi's. At least it seems vw is paying for most of the repair cost these days.

I find it hard to believe that the diagnostic gear doesn't tell the mechanic more specifically what's at fault - or maybe it did and he didn't tell you?

As I said earlier...the (non VW authorised) VW/AUDI/SKODA workshop's diagnostic gear showed the problem as a faulty crankshaft speed sensor which they replaced but 2 weeks later the same thing has happened again and again their diagnostic said a faulty crankshaft speed speed sensor which has them baffled because either the new one is faulty or there is a new prob come on the scene.
Anyway went to the VW dealership this morning where the normal services had been done and asked a few questions...and was told that the diagnostic gear would pickup if it was the injectors and that the Guys where the car was at the momment were competent and knew what they were doing.
Was also told that the 7yr warranty on the injectors was the case and that VW was replacing them free as a gesture of goodwill.
Also said that the main probs they have encountered was with the Passat............Maybe there ain't many GTD's in my neck of the woods??
Also told me if the fault on my car does turn out to be the injectors that I should bring it down and it will be fixed.
Keep you all posted.

[stickshift3000]

Their response sounds encouraging.

I think it's just because there are more passats around than gt tdi's (same engine in both cars of the same era).

[kryten2001]

Was also told that the 7yr warranty on the injectors was the case and that VW was replacing them free as a gesture of goodwill.
Also said that the main probs they have encountered was with the Passat............Maybe there ain't many GTD's in my neck of the woods??
Also told me if the fault on my car does turn out to be the injectors that I should bring it down and it will be fixed.
Keep you all posted.

Sounds like you're getting a result - good work.

BTW it's not a GTD It's GT..... GTD's are Mk6. Different engine all together.

Gluck with the fix. Let us know how you get on.

[Greg Roles]

Sorry I didn't see this sooner. If the battery is dying in the slightest - in winter when the diesel draws the most to try and start, if it doesn't hit the magic number of revs, 500rpm I think, the crank sensor tells the ECU there is a problem and throws this code. Also, as happened to mine, the sensor is in a crevice that tends to get oily and dirty, and it's common for the plug on the sensor to get a poor contact - as was the case with mine, it just needs a clean with suitable spray.

So in a nutshell get them to actually clean out the plug - not just replace the sensor and put a dirty plug back on, and check your battery. All diesel batteries show their weakness in cold weather, and my stock battery is still running a petrol car fine a year later after being removed, yet it was giving me that very issue after two years. A new battery would not hurt, but perhaps they can give it a proper overnight full charge, and I bet the problem will be gone till the battery runs down a bit. My "problem" crank angle sensor is still going fine at 4.5 years, the error code highlights the sensor, not the likely causes sadly.

[Transporter]

the error code highlights the sensor, not the likely causes sadly.

You've nailed it, Greg. The scaner (VCDS or any), is not enough to fix the problem.

[Umai Naa!!]

Greg, it's 280RPM

If it's logging crankshaft position sensor codes (G28 ), even after the sensor was replaced, it could be a wiring issue amongst the connectors on the inside of the left front chassis rail, below the airbox.

If it were an injector issue, it'd log a code like "Injector Circuit A Faulty", or something like that.

I'd definately be testing the battery. If it's on the border of Good/Recharge, replace it.

[DOUBLECAB]

Sorry I didn't see this sooner. If the battery is dying in the slightest - in winter when the diesel draws the most to try and start, if it doesn't hit the magic number of revs, 500rpm I think, the crank sensor tells the ECU there is a problem and throws this code. Also, as happened to mine, the sensor is in a crevice that tends to get oily and dirty, and it's common for the plug on the sensor to get a poor contact - as was the case with mine, it just needs a clean with suitable spray.

So in a nutshell get them to actually clean out the plug - not just replace the sensor and put a dirty plug back on, and check your battery. All diesel batteries show their weakness in cold weather, and my stock battery is still running a petrol car fine a year later after being removed, yet it was giving me that very issue after two years. A new battery would not hurt, but perhaps they can give it a proper overnight full charge, and I bet the problem will be gone till the battery runs down a bit. My "problem" crank angle sensor is still going fine at 4.5 years, the error code highlights the sensor, not the likely causes sadly.

Firstly thank you Guys for your input...............learn't a lot.

Now for the reason I'm posting quoting Greg will be obvious after reading this post..........

So this is where its at with the Golf..................

As stated earlier.... the car went back to the work shop where the first thing they did was charge the battery with the result that the car started first go and the dashboard sensor light (crank shaft speed sensor fault) no longer came on as it did when the battery was not fully charged.

So then the workshop thinks there is a voltage leak somewhere in the electrical system that is draining the battery suficiently if the car is not being used on a daily basis (as it isn't)..........................so they spend 2 hours going over the electrical system and believe they have tracked it down to either the large cooling fan, the regulator on the fan (new fan with regulator $480+ fitting) or another seperate fan regulator ($1000's plus fitting).

So now they tell me it needs to go to their specialist auto electrician to confirm which of those items is actually the prob before they ask me to shell out more bucks and then find it wasn't the fan but the seperate regulator.

So having been told (by a reliable source) that the workshop European Automotive in Geelong are VW & Audi specialists and as I'm already in 'for a pound' I will go it another penny and the car goes to their specialist auto electrician who after 2 hours can't find any probs with the fan or its regulators............... they also checked and monitored the radio 1hr shut down sequence with no faults detected and declared the car had no electrical issues and all was good.

Oh and btw both the workshop and the specialist auto electrican tested the battery, both for condition and crank under load strength and declared the battery 'GOOD".

At this point I am getting rather pissed off and go back to the workshop and ask howcome their specialist auto electrician could not detect the voltage drain in the fan/regulator system and they tell me maybe its an intermitent problem that didn't show up for their specialist auto electrician.

By now I am totally pissed off (but still keeping my cool) and tell them to bring back the car from the auto electrician and I will replace the battery with a new one (it was still the original) and see what happens and keep them posted!

Got a new Varta battery from Everybattery in Kensington, Melbourne (service was great and $250 silver battery with 3 year warranty was on special at $239) and will see where it ends up.

What is still on my mind Guys......................is, was it all just a battery issue and all the bucks it cost me for a new crankshaft speed sensor and the electrical system 'fault finding' were a waste of time and my money because the workshop that is claiming its a VW & Audi SPECIALIST, really can't claim that title ??????????????

Guess at this point only time will tell as I have been told by the local authorised VW dealer that the old crankshaft speed sensor (sitting on my desk in front of me) cannot be tested to see if it is working unless its in the vehicle.

But hey..............If its got tits or wheels, its going to cost one money!

[Transporter]

I'm sorry mate to hear that you have'd so many troubles with your TDI. I have the tester that tests most sensors in todays cars, I can test the ignition coils as well. If you like, you can send the sensor to me, I will test it for you and you pay just the return postage.

[DkN]

Sorry to hear that mate but the real lesson here is to take it straight to an independent VW specialist, dealers and 3rd party general mechanics are mostly useless except for textbook issues - although a dealer will probably find it eventually, at about 3x the price after finding numerous false positives.

[Fixxxer]

I hope you get it sorted soon. I had a similar experience (but with another Euro brand), spent thousands, yes thousands, on trying to track down a problem that the workshop was sure was the fault. Went back (towed) 3 times for various other parts and changes that did not fix the problem. Because it went back as a warranty job (they didn't fix it first time) it got locked in to always getting fixed by them, and more cost each time.
Finally took it to a specialist who said the battery was likely on its way out, replaced battery and all the problems disappeared.
Moral of the story - if the battery is old and problems start popping up that are difficult to trace, or replicate, replace the battery.
I'm just about to do this on my Golf.
Fixxxer

[Transporter]

Yes, always start with the basics first. When it comes to testing the batteries I don't guess, the guesses are costly and waste too much of the productive time. I use the Midtronics to test the batteries, starting system and charging system. It's very accurate and reliable. Downside is its price, but I'm happy to have it and would certainly buy it again.



Some battery chargers also offer some diagnostics capabilities, so if you're on look out for a new battery charger? This one is worth to consider Smart Battery Charger - REDARC

[DOUBLECAB]

Sorry to hear that mate but the real lesson here is to take it straight to an independent VW specialist, dealers and 3rd party general mechanics are mostly useless except for textbook issues - although a dealer will probably find it eventually, at about 3x the price after finding numerous false positives.

Ok Dkn............taking all of that onboard.................how does one determine what is a 'independent VW specialist' as these Guys claim they are 'INDEPENDENT VW & AUDI SPECIALISTS' ??????????????

[DOUBLECAB]

I hope you get it sorted soon. I had a similar experience (but with another Euro brand), spent thousands, yes thousands, on trying to track down a problem that the workshop was sure was the fault. Went back (towed) 3 times for various other parts and changes that did not fix the problem. Because it went back as a warranty job (they didn't fix it first time) it got locked in to always getting fixed by them, and more cost each time.
Finally took it to a specialist who said the battery was likely on its way out, replaced battery and all the problems disappeared.
Moral of the story - if the battery is old and problems start popping up that are difficult to trace, or replicate, replace the battery.
I'm just about to do this on my Golf.
Fixxxer

Well Fixxxxer...................as I said in my post........................thats where I pulled the plug and have fitted a new battery and will see where that ends up!

All of this kinda begs the question.............................Do the dealerships.............'specialists'...........in dependents, VW, etc read these forums and take anything on board or don't really give a squat about what happens once the sale is executed??

[DOUBLECAB]

I'm sorry mate to hear that you have'd so many troubles with your TDI. I have the tester that tests most sensors in todays cars, I can test the ignition coils as well. If you like, you can send the sensor to me, I will test it for you and you pay just the return postage.

Ok Transporter..............a question please.............are you per chance a 'certified' tester/engineer/technician/workshop/etc, because if I send you the sensor and your 'gear' finds it in a OK condition, unless you can give me some sort of 'validation' to go back to the European Automotive workshop here in Geelong with, it's all a pointless exercise beyond you 'telling' me I've been ripped off???

[Transporter]

Ok Transporter..............a question please.............are you per chance a 'certified' tester/engineer/technician/workshop/etc, because if I send you the sensor and your 'gear' finds it in a OK condition, unless you can give me some sort of 'validation' to go back to the European Automotive workshop here in Geelong with, it's all a pointless exercise beyond you 'telling' me I've been ripped off???

No, I'm not and don't have to be for my own needs. But, you should be able to find one in your state. How ever, I'm not sure how much would they charge you, probably a lot.