Above Forum Ad

Collapse

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Error Free Number Plate LED Lighting - The CHEAP and easy way!

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #16
    @benough:
    Are you shrink wrapping it? I don't know why yours is getting so hot. I even have it touching the bulb and have no issues...and I drive with them on sometimes for 5 hours+

    Good idea but doesn't it seem unnecessary? Are you using correct resistor? Or are your bulbs over 5W?


    @Kamold: yeah good placement. That's where mine is going next. Just worried about how I'm going to keep it attached to the housing. Scared the soldering will come undone. Did you wrap it around a bit too? Or just solder the ends straight on?
    ps- pro MSpaint skills
    I look at my V-Dub, and all I can think is....."Dat Ass....."

    Comment


    • #17
      Nah I'm using proper Philips LED bulbs. I need to add 5W so the car won't throw an error.

      They will melt shrink wrap, easy. I pulled em out tonight and found one of them had made a tiny melt mark in my lowest point of the valance, so there's my answer.

      Comment


      • #18
        Originally posted by benough View Post
        Nah I'm using proper Philips LED bulbs. I need to add 5W so the car won't throw an error.

        They will melt shrink wrap, easy. I pulled em out tonight and found one of them had made a tiny melt mark in my lowest point of the valance, so there's my answer.
        Whaaa
        Wait...so your bulbs are 5W or 10W? Are they 5W and you have the correct resistor for no error?
        Or are they 10W and you still have resistor?

        Why don't you switch to different bulbs? I've never had any heat issues.


        LEDs run at the lowest heat of any bulbs. Your resistors aren't ADDING 5W, Resistors are used in a circuit to oppose an electric current by producing a voltage drop between its terminals- in proportion to the current.

        can u describe what setup you have? What kind of resistor/globe etc?
        Last edited by Qwertypants; 14-03-2012, 09:15 PM.
        I look at my V-Dub, and all I can think is....."Dat Ass....."

        Comment


        • #19
          My LED bulbs are 0.5W. I use 5W b/c that's the resistance of the stock bulb that comes with the car and what the CANBUS needs for it to not trigger a bulb out light.

          I use them b/c they are the only proper 4200K LED you can get. Don't ask how much I paid for them.

          After being in this thread, I think I still need a 5W resistor but maybe a different ohm value.

          ---------- Post added at 10:21 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:13 PM ----------

          This is what I have...

          Car Bulbs › LED Car Bulbs | PowerBulbs

          Go to the Philips C5W ones. They are much cheaper than 1 year ago.

          Comment


          • #20
            Originally posted by benough View Post
            My LED bulbs are 0.5W. I use 5W b/c that's the resistance of the stock bulb that comes with the car and what the CANBUS needs for it to not trigger a bulb out light.

            I use them b/c they are the only proper 4200K LED you can get. Don't ask how much I paid for them.

            After being in this thread, I think I still need a 5W resistor but maybe a different ohm value.

            ---------- Post added at 10:21 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:13 PM ----------

            This is what I have...

            Car Bulbs › LED Car Bulbs | PowerBulbs

            Go to the Philips C5W ones. They are much cheaper than 1 year ago.
            I understand what you mean now. Didn't know they were 0.5W!
            I will do the exact math for you tomorrow when my brain isn't fried and let you know.
            I look at my V-Dub, and all I can think is....."Dat Ass....."

            Comment


            • #21
              Originally posted by Qwertypants View Post

              @Kamold: yeah good placement. That's where mine is going next. Just worried about how I'm going to keep it attached to the housing. Scared the soldering will come undone. Did you wrap it around a bit too? Or just solder the ends straight on?
              ps- pro MSpaint skills
              MSPaint FTW
              The resistors have long enough wires on them to wrap them around the bulb holder first (using needle nose pliers) before soldering. So they seem to be pretty secure. Have been in for about a week without fault.
              2011 Skoda Octavia vRS TDI DSG wagon|Revo Stage 1|Race Blue|Leather|Dynamic Xenons w 6000K|9w7 BT|THA475 Amp+active sub|Whiteline ALK|RVC|
              2009 R36 wagon|Biscay Blue|RVC|Tailgate|ECU and DSG tune|LED DRL/Indicators|3D colour cluster|Quad LED tail rings|Climatronics upgrade|Dynaudio retrofit|B7 RLine Flat Steering Wheel|3AA CCM|TPMS Direct|B7 Adaptive Cruise with Front Assist|Discover Media retrofit|PLA 2.0|Lane Assist|BCM retrofit|High Beam Assist|DQ500

              Comment


              • #22
                Originally posted by Qwertypants View Post
                I understand what you mean now. Didn't know they were 0.5W!
                I will do the exact math for you tomorrow when my brain isn't fried and let you know.
                Oh great, thanks!

                Comment


                • #23
                  Originally posted by benough View Post
                  My LED bulbs are 0.5W. I use 5W b/c that's the resistance of the stock bulb that comes with the car and what the CANBUS needs for it to not trigger a bulb out light.

                  I use them b/c they are the only proper 4200K LED you can get. Don't ask how much I paid for them.

                  After being in this thread, I think I still need a 5W resistor but maybe a different ohm value.

                  ---------- Post added at 10:21 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:13 PM ----------

                  This is what I have...

                  Car Bulbs › LED Car Bulbs | PowerBulbs

                  Go to the Philips C5W ones. They are much cheaper than 1 year ago.

                  Ok so, I consulted my electrical engineer contact since I can't do the math without all the details. Figured I'd ask him what he thinks is going on, and this is the verdict:

                  I need to know what resistance your resistors are in ohms. (You saw mine are 270 ohm 1 watt).
                  Melting plastic means that a very high current (in Ampers) is flowing because of a low value resistor (in ohms).
                  Thus your resistor becomes an oven until the temperature destroys it.

                  So what exact resistor are you using? I am worried you are going to blow up your circuit.

                  We don't know the LED bulb internal resistance, don't know how many LEDs are connected inside each bulb parallel, how many strings connected in series, plus the value of the built in resistor in car.

                  Obviously you won't know all this data. But if you tell me the exact resistor you are using, I can help.

                  Oh man, I read this again and it sounds so complex. God damn modern car electronics *shakes fist*
                  Last edited by Qwertypants; 16-03-2012, 11:43 AM.
                  I look at my V-Dub, and all I can think is....."Dat Ass....."

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Sorry for late reply.

                    Will grab the LED box and a photo of the resistor this arvo and post it up.

                    Comment

                    Working...
                    X