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Error Free Number Plate LED Lighting - The CHEAP and easy way!

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  • Error Free Number Plate LED Lighting - The CHEAP and easy way!

    Most of you probably know about this, but I've said I'll write up a quick guide for those who don't!

    There are LED lights available with in-built resistors, but they are way overpriced. This is the way I do it, and It's extremely cheap. If you put LEDs in your number plate lights you will get an error message, and the lights will turn off after a few secs. You don't need to buy the overpriced bulbs with inbuilt resistors!!

    What you need:
    2x 39mm LED lights from Autobarn (example), any colour, fluoro green, white, whatever suits your fancy. ~8$ each.
    2x 270ohm 1 watt resistors. (These are available from Jaycar for 49c each)
    Soldering Iron + Wire
    Optional: Shrink plastic stuff that you cut to shape of your resistor, and use heat (hairdryer) to fit. I did this just incase to protect the resistor from the LEDs heat.

    I wrapped it around like so:



    Yes my soldering sucks, but It still works

    This is what the 8$ ones from Autobarn look like (blue):


    Apologies for terrible pic quality!

    If your bulbs are going out, double check your soldering. Get it as stable as possible. Also, you can solder the resistors onto the frames themselves, so you can swap the bulbs easy. I will be doing this next time.

    ---------- Post added at 01:10 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:07 AM ----------

    ps - The 2 pics above have the bulbs in the correct orientation. Judge by the writing on the bulb casing, that is the correct placement.
    If your LEDs don't work, just rotate and try again!
    I look at my V-Dub, and all I can think is....."Dat Ass....."

  • #2
    Nice write up.
    Performance Tunes from $850
    Wrecking RS OCTAVIA 2 Link

    Comment


    • #3
      Good work. I've done a similar ghetto job on mine as I was getting sick of the warning every time the headlights came on.
      I used lower resistance resistors though, which I think I will change. I used 22ohm 5w which I think over time will probably generate too much heat when next to the SMD LEDs as well.

      Think I'll take them out and use similar high resitance ones as you have.

      Will likely keep soldering them to the globes and have some spares if required as its pretty hard to heat up the OEM contacts enough to get the solder to flow...
      Last edited by kamold; 12-03-2012, 11:31 AM.
      2011 Skoda Octavia vRS TDI DSG wagon|Revo Stage 1|Race Blue|Leather|Dynamic Xenons w 6000K|9w7 BT|THA475 Amp+active sub|Whiteline ALK|RVC|
      2009 R36 wagon|Biscay Blue|RVC|Tailgate|ECU and DSG tune|LED DRL/Indicators|3D colour cluster|Quad LED tail rings|Climatronics upgrade|Dynaudio retrofit|B7 RLine Flat Steering Wheel|3AA CCM|TPMS Direct|B7 Adaptive Cruise with Front Assist|Discover Media retrofit|PLA 2.0|Lane Assist|BCM retrofit|High Beam Assist|DQ500

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      • #4
        Cheers m8!

        Comment


        • #5
          I bought some white led's from jaycar and they looked like sh&t. The tuner dome ones are hyper white like xenon's and dont throw any codes. $29 isnt that dear for a plu'n'play led that looks good. imo
          Volvo S60 RD T6

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by thezoneR32 View Post
            I bought some white led's from jaycar and they looked like sh&t. The tuner dome ones are hyper white like xenon's and dont throw any codes. $29 isnt that dear for a plu'n'play led that looks good. imo

            Where did you get the tunerdome ones? According to their website, the dont ship internationally for orders under $100
            2008 Metallic Black Jetta TFSI

            2001 Pearl White Toyota Crown Estate

            Comment


            • #7
              As far as I can make out there are no available LEDs that are error free with the newer BCMs. Even the vw OEM LEDs will throw an error without correct revision and coding of the BCM.

              You need to modify byte 18 of central electrics (the body control module) which is 'protected' now by vw and has been seen to be damaged by incorrect coding.

              So on newer cars adding resistors in serial is the only way to eliminate the bulb out warnings.
              2011 Skoda Octavia vRS TDI DSG wagon|Revo Stage 1|Race Blue|Leather|Dynamic Xenons w 6000K|9w7 BT|THA475 Amp+active sub|Whiteline ALK|RVC|
              2009 R36 wagon|Biscay Blue|RVC|Tailgate|ECU and DSG tune|LED DRL/Indicators|3D colour cluster|Quad LED tail rings|Climatronics upgrade|Dynaudio retrofit|B7 RLine Flat Steering Wheel|3AA CCM|TPMS Direct|B7 Adaptive Cruise with Front Assist|Discover Media retrofit|PLA 2.0|Lane Assist|BCM retrofit|High Beam Assist|DQ500

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by kamold View Post
                I used lower resistance resistors though, which I think I will change. I used 22ohm 5w which I think over time will probably generate too much heat when next to the SMD LEDs as well.
                Are these the ones in a white box? I got some 5W onces from Jaycar and they were so big they wouldn't fit in the cavity...

                Comment


                • #9
                  Yeah the white ceramic ones. I located them up above the LEDs into the bumper.
                  2011 Skoda Octavia vRS TDI DSG wagon|Revo Stage 1|Race Blue|Leather|Dynamic Xenons w 6000K|9w7 BT|THA475 Amp+active sub|Whiteline ALK|RVC|
                  2009 R36 wagon|Biscay Blue|RVC|Tailgate|ECU and DSG tune|LED DRL/Indicators|3D colour cluster|Quad LED tail rings|Climatronics upgrade|Dynaudio retrofit|B7 RLine Flat Steering Wheel|3AA CCM|TPMS Direct|B7 Adaptive Cruise with Front Assist|Discover Media retrofit|PLA 2.0|Lane Assist|BCM retrofit|High Beam Assist|DQ500

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    So you took the whole lamp housing out?

                    I thought of something where you could wire it lower to get some airflow over it.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Yeah took the housing out and soldered the resistors onto the bulb holder above the led globes in a sort of bridge arrangement.
                      2011 Skoda Octavia vRS TDI DSG wagon|Revo Stage 1|Race Blue|Leather|Dynamic Xenons w 6000K|9w7 BT|THA475 Amp+active sub|Whiteline ALK|RVC|
                      2009 R36 wagon|Biscay Blue|RVC|Tailgate|ECU and DSG tune|LED DRL/Indicators|3D colour cluster|Quad LED tail rings|Climatronics upgrade|Dynaudio retrofit|B7 RLine Flat Steering Wheel|3AA CCM|TPMS Direct|B7 Adaptive Cruise with Front Assist|Discover Media retrofit|PLA 2.0|Lane Assist|BCM retrofit|High Beam Assist|DQ500

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by thezoneR32 View Post
                        I bought some white led's from jaycar and they looked like sh&t. The tuner dome ones are hyper white like xenon's and dont throw any codes. $29 isnt that dear for a plu'n'play led that looks good. imo
                        Where can you get them for 29$? If you could provide a link that'd be sweet. And do they come in different colours?
                        yes Jaycar globes are crap, but Autobarn has verrrrry bright ones.

                        And either way, It's good to know how to do this...esp if your awesome globe dies on you and you have to wait for more to ship...takes a couple of mins so I don't see why not

                        ---------- Post added at 06:18 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:14 PM ----------

                        Originally posted by benough View Post
                        Are these the ones in a white box? I got some 5W onces from Jaycar and they were so big they wouldn't fit in the cavity...
                        You need to get the correct size. Anywhere between 36-39mm will fit. Or maybe you mean width wise...
                        Take the bulb holder into the shop, and check before you buy. I did that just in case.

                        ---------- Post added at 06:22 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:18 PM ----------

                        Originally posted by benough View Post
                        So you took the whole lamp housing out?

                        I thought of something where you could wire it lower to get some airflow over it.
                        You won't be getting any airflow up there anyway....if you're worried about heat, just shrink wrap your resistors.
                        I've had no issues for 6 months.

                        The advantage of putting the resistors where kamold has, is that they don't need to re-solder anything when changing bulbs. Which is a better method. Can you take a pic of your 'bridge arrangement' kamold?
                        I look at my V-Dub, and all I can think is....."Dat Ass....."

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by JimmyH View Post
                          Where did you get the tunerdome ones? According to their website, the dont ship internationally for orders under $100
                          Sorry I didnt buy just the one, I bought the whole set in a group buy on vwgolf.net

                          you could email david@tunerdomes.com and ask what shipping is for one led. He's very prompt at replying to emails and good after sales service. This is the 2nd kit I have bought from him. I had one led in the kit that flickered so i emailed him and he shipped 2 new ones out straight away at his expense. Good bloke.
                          Volvo S60 RD T6

                          Comment


                          • #14

                            You won't be getting any airflow up there anyway....if you're worried about heat, just shrink wrap your resistors.
                            I've had no issues for 6 months.

                            The advantage of putting the resistors where kamold has, is that they don't need to re-solder anything when changing bulbs. Which is a better method. Can you take a pic of your 'bridge arrangement' kamold?
                            Haven't had a chance to pull one out to take a pic, so here is an artist's impression of the bodgie job:



                            The red is the Jaycar resistor, soldered onto the metal arms of the bulb holder. So when it sits back into the bumper, the resistor is above and not touching the LED globe. So far so good but as I said before would be better to use a higher resistance as it will generate less heat whilst still tricking the BCM into thinking it has halogen globes
                            2011 Skoda Octavia vRS TDI DSG wagon|Revo Stage 1|Race Blue|Leather|Dynamic Xenons w 6000K|9w7 BT|THA475 Amp+active sub|Whiteline ALK|RVC|
                            2009 R36 wagon|Biscay Blue|RVC|Tailgate|ECU and DSG tune|LED DRL/Indicators|3D colour cluster|Quad LED tail rings|Climatronics upgrade|Dynaudio retrofit|B7 RLine Flat Steering Wheel|3AA CCM|TPMS Direct|B7 Adaptive Cruise with Front Assist|Discover Media retrofit|PLA 2.0|Lane Assist|BCM retrofit|High Beam Assist|DQ500

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              I trialled a different idea I had last night.

                              What I did was drill two "wire sized" hole in the holder, and attached two wires to the bulb circuit, then ran them through the holder and down into the back of the bumper, wired up the the resistor.

                              I drove to and from work today with no bulb outs or any heat on the plastic, but to finalise it, I will run enough wire down through the rear valance and mount the ceramic resistor against the heat shield for the muffler.

                              That way those buggers can get as hot as they please. I might put some plugs into the wiring to make future removal of the bumper easier etc.

                              Might do a write up.

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