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How about I do you a favour and we swap cars for a few weeks. You can learn how to launch a car with big lag, short gears and a 1500rpm powerband, and I can give you my thoughts on your Pirelli.
Hey, it's the kind of guy I am.
2014 Skoda Yeti TDI Outdoor 4x4 | Audi Q3 CFGC repower | Darkside tune and Race Cams | Darkside dump pDPF | Wagner Comp IC | Snow Water Meth | Bilstein B6 H&R springs | Rays Homura 2x7 18 x 8" 255 Potenza Sports | Golf R subframe | Superpro sways and bushings | 034 engine mounts | MK6 GTI brakes |
How about I do you a favour and we swap cars for a few weeks. You can learn how to launch a car with big lag, short gears and a 1500rpm powerband, and I can give you my thoughts on your Pirelli.
Hey, it's the kind of guy I am.
Mate such an offer could hardly be refused. If it weren't for the vast distance between us, I'd take you up on it.
LSD, sticky tires and self control... light throttle then short shift in 1st then feather it into 2nd until you reach 60 like you said where you can boot it without spinning.
And these rules apply with any high powered car really
Just on your speedo note... VW speedos are known to out. Use a Navman, gps etc to read speed or gear ratio x revs achieved.
ie. 40k's per 1000 and your doing 4k's = 160.
If speedo shows 180 ahem
Ive seen chaps post up great top speeds, BUT when you see the tacho you know it doesnt work out.
Example on some UTube vids with 6k on R32's Real speed is 240, vids show speedo on 260 etc.
Bazzle
Prev 2008 R32 3 door DSG.
Prev 2010 S3 Sportback Stronic.
Now Lexus IS350 F Sport
not sure if applicable but I know there was an autodelta 147 GTA. Jeremy clarkson drove it (look on utube?) and said it was going to be the worst car ever (fwd, too much power, poor chassis) but with their suspension mods said it was on of the funnest cars ever. this is going back 4 years so cant remember it well - but maybe havea look what they do to control the fwd cars?
Everyone who has given advice how many speak from experience ?
An LSD is not a necessity but will help .
Same with engine mounts and bushes .
the most important factor is trying to keep the wheels on the ground and try and stop the car from lifting under heavy acceleration . The best way to do this is have really good suspension . KW V3's or Clubsports would be the way to go . You have seperate bump/rebound adjustement which is what you need . So you set the bump at extremely stiff so the upwards movement is harder for the car to achieve , a stiffer spring will also help ! , then set the rebound for extremely soft so the suspension can be pushed downwards a lot easier .
Courtney will be trialing this on her car and will be happy to give you spring rates that may work , even though the car will be a lot more powerful and lighter the general dynamics should be the same .
Bug_racer supports the rebellion of the euro revolution
seems as though you're looking for a solution that might not be there. if you go any further you'll probably compromise on a few other things IE comfort or daily driveability. its just physics and unfortunately they're some laws you can't break
to add to bug racer's suspension notes; some exotic coilovers (DMS for instance) have bump and rebound ajustment for low and high speed. this means you can have two separate damper rates for bump/rebound depending on if the bump is sudden or created by a slow force ie squatting under acceleration. you could have the damper rates stiff as hell for undulating bumps (and acceleration) and more compliant for harsher bumps for instance. of course spring rates play a role in that too. not that i've had ANY experience with damper adjustable coilovers but its just an idea.
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