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Bora Gearbox Clunking Issue

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  • Bora Gearbox Clunking Issue

    Need some suggestions on what could be the cause of my gearbox issues

    The Problem: There is a lot of resistance when trying to change gears. To the point that I need to really force it in to gear by pressing hard on the shifter. This happens from neutral to 1st, 1st to 2nd, 2nd to 3rd, but isn't really an issue shifting to higher gears, or when downshifting.

    When I push the clutch in when rolling, or change gears and release the clutch, there is a loud 'clunking' sound.

    Reasons why I don't think its the clutch: The clutch is not 'slipping' at all, and hill starts etc are perfectly fine, except for the resistance when shifting. When its in gear, the drive is very smooth and as normal

    What I think it might be (from reading the forum previous posts): Dogbone mount, gearbox mount, engine mount?? Anyone have any ideas to point me in the right direction?

  • #2
    A bit hard to tell from here.
    A lot of VW boxes have issues with diff crown wheel rivets shearing. Lots of strange noises when this happens.
    MK4 GTI - Sold
    MK5 Jetta Turbo - Sold
    MK5 Jetta 2.Slow - Until it dies.

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    • #3
      How does the clutch pedal feel?
      '07 Transporter 1.9 TDI
      '01 Beetle 2.0

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      • #4
        Thanks for the replies. I will be taking the car into the shop sometime this week but just wanted to get suggestions so I can look into it beforehand.

        Clutch pedal feels the same as always has for me. Although another user of the car mentioned the pedal 'stuck' halfway on one or two occassions when they were driving it, and they had to pull it back up (master or slave cylinder?). Was going to look into this myself but found out the slave cylinder is located inside the bell housing.

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        • #5
          Well, found out what it is today. Clutch pedal pushed straight to the floor, wont spring back.

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          • #6
            The metal tab on the clutch pedal. Pull out pedal box and get a welder.
            This is probably the best scenario you could have wished for actually. I got mine sorted for about $120 (after the free tow)
            Last edited by JustCruisn; 31-01-2016, 07:27 PM.
            MK4 GTI - Sold
            MK5 Jetta Turbo - Sold
            MK5 Jetta 2.Slow - Until it dies.

            Comment


            • #7
              Throw out bearing

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              • #8
                What kind of noises would you expect for a gearbox that has sheared the diff crown wheel rivets?

                Mine has a very sporadic clunking noise that comes and goes. It sounds like metal clunking away - sometimes it's rotational - other times it's more like rubbing. Funny because you can drive for ages with nothing, other times it just comes out from the middle of no where. Seems to sound like it's coming from the centre of the car.

                My rear diff is currently defunct, so I'm wondering if it's the tail shaft clunking from it trying to be turned but the diff not engaging.

                Is my front diff ****ed?
                Originally posted by MightyCarMods
                I'd rather lose by a mile because I built my own car, than win by an inch because someone else built it for me. Your car is your story, so don't let someone else write the book.

                -| "Laura" - 2001 Bora 4-motion (now sold) |-

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                • #9
                  What is wrong with the rear diff?
                  2001 Bora 4 Motion Sport now used by number two son
                  2011 Skoda Octavia Scout now with Underground Performance tune
                  2010 Jetta 125 tdi dsg for the misses - Impressed
                  2006 Polo GTI - Enhanced by some of Gav's magic - Absolutely loving it

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Bora Sport View Post
                    What is wrong with the rear diff?
                    NFI. Just stopped working. I've got a spare one I took out of a wreck for $100, but god knows if it'll work. I've had it sitting around for the last 6 months in the shed.

                    Vagcom tells me:

                    00526 - Brake Light Switch-F
                    27-10 - Implausible signal - Intermittent

                    01155 - Clutch
                    04-10 - Mechanical Malfunction - Intermittent.

                    Yeah, the cun,ts f,ucked. I think it's the precharge pump. Which is only a measely $500 to buy online....
                    Last edited by RubAVeeDubDub; 02-02-2016, 09:45 PM.
                    Originally posted by MightyCarMods
                    I'd rather lose by a mile because I built my own car, than win by an inch because someone else built it for me. Your car is your story, so don't let someone else write the book.

                    -| "Laura" - 2001 Bora 4-motion (now sold) |-

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I'm pretty sure that putting your foot on the brake disengages the rear diff (haldex). I'm welcome to be corrected by those more knowledgeable. Perhaps the brake light switch malfunction is telling the computer that the brakes are on and therefore disengaging the diff?
                      2001 Bora 4 Motion Sport now used by number two son
                      2011 Skoda Octavia Scout now with Underground Performance tune
                      2010 Jetta 125 tdi dsg for the misses - Impressed
                      2006 Polo GTI - Enhanced by some of Gav's magic - Absolutely loving it

                      Comment

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