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Hahahah A+ for effort X'D yeah I hear a bubbling noise too but I read somewhere that it's normal so yeah should be k haha. 0_0 and yeah thanks for that Gavin, would you recommend buying a vagcom cable and query the ecu for any faults/errors? And if so are the eBay ones for like $20 any good? Thanks
Without a doubt, it's the best piece of kit you could buy. Needs to be the HEX+CAN cable. Anything else doesn't cut it in my opinion.
I have a real cable but the ebay ones have varying levels of success.
Is it the Ross-tech software you need? Or is there another program that's better? Thanks heaps for all the help Gavin. You're a very knowledgeable man haha
The software is free, it's the cable that costs you if you buy a genuine one. The cheap ones use a cracked copy of the software IIRC. You can buy a licence from Ross-Tech to use the genuine software but there's no certainty that this will work on the cheap cable.
As far as I am concerned there is no better software.
The software is free, it's the cable that costs you if you buy a genuine one. The cheap ones use a cracked copy of the software IIRC. You can buy a licence from Ross-Tech to use the genuine software but there's no certainty that this will work on the cheap cable.
As far as I am concerned there is no better software.
Well if yous think its the n75 then i'm going to replace that and see how it goes because the car is feeling absolutely gutless :'( example... I lost against my friends Mazda 3 yesterday and cried my way home :''''''( (i usually chop him in my car ) but if yous think it could be anything else, please let me know Thanks for all your help.
Okay well i just used the car battery and connected it up with some wires i had lying around and it made a single click when i completed the circuit so i'm guessing it works and there's something else wrong???
What about the airflow through the ports, it will be different in the 2 positions. Google a diagram of the guts of the N75 and see what happens.
Gavin
Well just tried it then, valve is holding pressure in the nipple that is closed. When switch opened, other nipple holds pressure. The ones that you can blow through flow easily turned off and on... (hopefully that makes sense) So something else must be the cause of the problem?
Thanks heaps for your help.
EDIT: Cleaned MAF pretty well with a can of electrical contact cleaner last night and left it to dry till this morning, didn't change anything, still cant get past 6-7psi.
I was searching the internet and read that maybe the wastegate adjusting screw has come loose? Does anyone know what else would be causing this boost drop? I'm pretty new to the car scene and all so any more help would be great. Thanks
Ps. Was thinking of bringing it in to Camden GTi and getting them to do a road test, ecu scan etc and sprinkle their magic on the car and diagnose the problem.
If wastegate adjustment has changed, boost will be down all the time. Easy to adjust just hit google but don't go nuts, a turn or two can make a massive difference.
Okay, well today i had a bit of time so i jacked the car up and tested for leaks again and just had a look under the car to see if everything was okay. I tried to pressurize but all the air was escaping and it ended up being the hose going form the n75 to the waste gate, it was ripped off from the nipple and was barley attached and all the air was escaping from here. I fixed that and tested again and it all held pressure. I just pulled the waste gate with my hand and it seemed tight and didn't wiggle or chatter so i don't think its loose. I went for a drive and it was a little better getting to ~8psi but no higher. Could there be anything else wrong? Soon i'm going to bring it into the shop and have them scan the ecu and get them to test all the blocks or whatever it is. i'm just so over having such an under powered car
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