VW Bora Custom Fibreglass subwoofer build. (large photo content)

[Hairy_mic]

Update.

Pulled the trigger on another matching 10" sub. looks like the cars gonna smell of FG for a while again

Picked up a 750 mono and 250 2 channel Alpine amps from gumtree

head unit next

Had considered using the 2 chan for the rear door speakers, as fitting parcel shelf speakers is problematic.

any ideas on 6.5" speakers to replace stock ? will i notice a big difference ?

[MCiN7]

Replacing the head unit on an MK4 will give big gains in clarity, especially the top end, which I hope you are changing next .

In terms of changing the 'woofers' (not sub-woofers) it depends what you want. You can get a cleaner sounding speaker, as well as something that will play lower (standard MK4 woofers distort really easily down low).

I use a set of these: Peerless 830883 6-1/2" Nomex Cone HDS Woofer 264-1094 for the front, they work great with and without an amp.

I don't really think it's worth amplifying your speakers unless you start going into active processing territory, which really, is not that expensive after amplifying all your speakers.
That's just my 2 cents though, after going from:
Passive setup non-amplified, to 2 way passive amplified, to 3 way active amplified w/ carpc, to dead stock (non amplified, standard everything), to adding a head unit and changing front woofers.
The active & amplified system was by far the most impressive, giving the ability to tune any aspect of my system.

With changing the 'woofers' on a MK4 you will need to either destroy and grind out the existing speakers, or make some spacers.
To use the existing tweeters you will need to bridge some connections depending if you destroy the existing speaker or make spacers.

Installing new speakers is one thing, but it's making everything work together and properly that you want.
As per all audio forums/competitions, be happy with your front staging first then move to rear fill in.

Audio is pretty complicated once you start talking about staging, but it's worth it in the end.
Jump onto caraudio (com.au) or diymobileaudio if your interested in all that type of stuff, as there's only a minority of people in this scene that will go to that extent.

Also, try find a local SQ competition, people would be happy to 'demo' their system to get an idea of what an active setup sounds like.

I don't regret spending a fair chunk of my salary on my system that I pulled out in the end, it was well worth it as I was/am travelling in peak traffic daily, but sometimes you just want to sit inside your car and listen to music, because you're amazed by the way it sounds. The only reason I've taken my system out: track & weight reduction.

Hope that makes sense, went on a bit in the end and can't be bothered reading over it

[Hairy_mic]

Replacing the head unit on an MK4 will give big gains in clarity, especially the top end, which I hope you are changing next .

In terms of changing the 'woofers' (not sub-woofers) it depends what you want. You can get a cleaner sounding speaker, as well as something that will play lower (standard MK4 woofers distort really easily down low).

I use a set of these: Peerless 830883 6-1/2" Nomex Cone HDS Woofer 264-1094 for the front, they work great with and without an amp.

I don't really think it's worth amplifying your speakers unless you start going into active processing territory, which really, is not that expensive after amplifying all your speakers.
That's just my 2 cents though, after going from:
Passive setup non-amplified, to 2 way passive amplified, to 3 way active amplified w/ carpc, to dead stock (non amplified, standard everything), to adding a head unit and changing front woofers.
The active & amplified system was by far the most impressive, giving the ability to tune any aspect of my system.

With changing the 'woofers' on a MK4 you will need to either destroy and grind out the existing speakers, or make some spacers.
To use the existing tweeters you will need to bridge some connections depending if you destroy the existing speaker or make spacers.

Installing new speakers is one thing, but it's making everything work together and properly that you want.
As per all audio forums/competitions, be happy with your front staging first then move to rear fill in.

Audio is pretty complicated once you start talking about staging, but it's worth it in the end.
Jump onto caraudio (com.au) or diymobileaudio if your interested in all that type of stuff, as there's only a minority of people in this scene that will go to that extent.

Also, try find a local SQ competition, people would be happy to 'demo' their system to get an idea of what an active setup sounds like.

I don't regret spending a fair chunk of my salary on my system that I pulled out in the end, it was well worth it as I was/am travelling in peak traffic daily, but sometimes you just want to sit inside your car and listen to music, because you're amazed by the way it sounds. The only reason I've taken my system out: track & weight reduction.

Hope that makes sense, went on a bit in the end and can't be bothered reading over it

Thanks for that, very informative, thanks for taking the time to reply. I think for the moment ill stick to the stock speakers, somebody once told me that the stocks in the bora are actually not too bad,

Im going to be starting the wiring in the next couple of weeks once i get all my stuff together.

I had been looking at some posts recently re the route to take with the power cable from battery into the cab. (some grommet you can see once the glove box is revealed. Is this the best route?

also. i have previously viewed a vid on youtube about wiring of head unit. it talked about bringing a wire from the 75x terminal under the glove box to the HU as boras dont have a switched live to the HU. ( i think it was something to do with aftermarket players not automatically coming on after ignition started.) - is this right ?

also, i am considering fitting a second battery in the boot. is it worth it ?


Thanks again for all your help already

[MCiN7]

Comments in bold

Thanks for that, very informative, thanks for taking the time to reply. I think for the moment ill stick to the stock speakers, somebody once told me that the stocks in the bora are actually not too bad,
I rate the tweeters but can't say the same about the woofers

I had been looking at some posts recently re the route to take with the power cable from battery into the cab. (some grommet you can see once the glove box is revealed. Is this the best route?
It's a common route for the power wiring, there's a breather or something for climate control, tight squeeze with 0awg

also. i have previously viewed a vid on youtube about wiring of head unit. it talked about bringing a wire from the 75x terminal under the glove box to the HU as boras dont have a switched live to the HU. ( i think it was something to do with aftermarket players not automatically coming on after ignition started.) - is this right ?
Head units work fine, we have a standard iso plug which most units will just plug in - usually with after market head units and the mk4 platform, you simply need to swap red & yellow (constant and switching is reverse), a way to tell is once it's 'dummied up' to set some settings, switch off the ignition and pull the key out, wait 30 seconds or so, switch car back on to ignition - if the settings are still there, good to go.

also, i am considering fitting a second battery in the boot. is it worth it ?
Personally no - upgrade front battery to a dry cell, upgrade alternator wires and ground wires (big 3 upgrade) & run a decent size cable to the boot.
If you start wanting to run your system flat out for great periods of time, yes - keep in mind that the alternator may need to work harder though

[Hairy_mic]

UPDATE>

Bought second 10" woofer for the left side.

Got a decent monoblock and separate 2 channel amp.

What would i be best doing with two chan.

options :

1. upgrade rear door speakers power via amp.

2. 6x9s in boot

3. 6x9 (on top off) parcel shelf (not cutting into metal boot cage thingy)

[JustCruisn]

I ran 0awg to the rear in my golf.
In the rain scuttle area on the drivers side is a plastic cover which takes the loom to the fuse box etc.
I drilled a large enough hole in this for the wire and sealed with silicon.
The line then ran down under the A pillar and along the side of to the boot area. There is a fairly large cabling area all the way along. Just pop off the trim and pull back the carpet and sound deadning and you will see there is a lot of room.

[PranK]

I ran 0awg to the rear in my golf.
In the rain scuttle area on the drivers side is a plastic cover which takes the loom to the fuse box etc.
I drilled a large enough hole in this for the wire and sealed with silicon.

Through to the bay? Any pics of this?

I miss my GTR in situations like this, the battery is in the boot!

[MCiN7]

There's also a grommet to the left of the abs pump, enters behind glove box next to some sort of climate control pipe. 0awg fits snug.

[JustCruisn]

Through to the bay? Any pics of this?

I miss my GTR in situations like this, the battery is in the boot!

Pics
Driver's side


Passenger side




The boot



Here is an album with lots of pics of my project.
CarPuter Photos by justcruisn | Photobucket

[PranK]

VW Bora Custom Fibreglass subwoofer build. (large photo content)

Sweet!! Thanks for that!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2

[Hairy_mic]

VW Bora Custom Fibreglass subwoofer build. (large photo content)

Yea thanks good pics


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Hairy_mic]

VW Bora Custom Fibreglass subwoofer build. (large photo content)

UPDATE>

Bought second 10" woofer for the left side.

Got a decent monoblock and separate 2 channel amp.

What would i be best doing with two chan.

options :

1. upgrade rear door speakers power via amp.

2. 6x9s in boot

3. 6x9 (on top off) parcel shelf (not cutting into metal boot cage thingy)

Any thoughts


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[noone]

what are the existing holes like in the rear shelf?
Why 16x9's? you already have subs for the low freq, normal 6" drivers should be fine either way. Personally I'd box them below the shelf but depends on the shelf openings.

If you want tight bass, make sure your internal volumes of the sub enclosures match the driver, otherwise you get some notes loud and others soft. I would not be porting the sub enclosures unless the ports match the box and driver spec's.

[Hairy_mic]

Comments in bold.

what are the existing holes like in the rear shelf?
The metal cage support bracket thingy has not been modded from original. so as fair as i am aware doesnt make fitting speakers possible

Why 16x9's? you already have subs for the low freq, normal 6" drivers should be fine either way.
doesn't have to be 6x9's. you think i would be better running amped speakers to the rear (or front) (or both?) door speakers. (how would this work with my 1 mono and 1 2chan amp

Personally I'd box them below the shelf but depends on the shelf openings.
i had considered a false floor in the boot for amps under plexiglass or somthing


If you want tight bass, make sure your internal volumes of the sub enclosures match the driver, otherwise you get some notes loud and others soft. I would not be porting the sub enclosures unless the ports match the box and driver spec's.
Yes, the volume is slightly below the rec spec, and my fitting of a port before actually hearing the driver concerns me (might have to fill it in) but can effectively seal up in the mean time

On a side note, i had a look at the 0awg cable in autobahn today, Feck thats a thick'un would i get away with 4awg

And those robbing ****s were looking for

$21.99 1m and 300$ for a 0awg full install kit.

[Hairy_mic]

And thats how the Off Side Sub OSSUB stayed for 8 months,

Been busy over the last few months stripping down OSSUB to remove port hole and improve the fit of the sub.
At the same time i made a start on the NSSUB Using what i have learned from the first attempt at OSSUB

points being :

1 Use only top quality (i used 3m) painters tape. It is low tack. this makes the removal of the mould easy, but because it has a waxy coating on it, it makes the removal of the tape from the backside of the sub easy also (i sprayed oil onto the tape on the OSSUB first timer round )

2 1 thickness of woven glass and 1 thickness of cut glass is sufficient to remove the sub from car and it will be strong enough to hold its shape.

3 the NSSUB is significantly bigger than the OSSUB probably double the volume

Final enclosures are 4 layers of cut glass sandwiched by a single layer of woven


$16 Bunnings 3m Tape



First coat. Woven 1 m2 3% Blue tint added to resin just because



Think this was 3 coats... 1 woven 2 cut



The yellow writing you can see is what is left on back side of sub after tape peels off, Kinda looks cool imho


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^ ok so to this point baffle is secured with screws gaps between the baffle and inside of sub filled with Builders bog metal fibreglass any gaps on the outside filled with bog, edges smoothed, and 3 layers of woven glass tying the whole thing together.


Fitted Automotive underlay to the entire inside of the box a few gaps, but considering im doing it all through a 10" hole i think i did ok



Underlay $38 L/m (1800 wide) from Foam and rubber shop

More to come