Bora 4mo ESP kicking in at slow speeds

[kapowww]

Fuse 31 is the definitely the Haldex on the R32.
What size is the Fuse? If it's 20A then it is definitely the Haldex (there should only be one 20A in that section of the fuse area). You should get the lovely little orange triangle with the circle around it on the dash.
If it is indeed your Haldex that is fudged. I'm pretty sure my stock R32 one is still packed up in a box somewhere. PM me if you're interested.
Cheers,
Trent

It's a 5A fuse but the orange triangle pops up when it's taken out...

[popeclement]

Simply because after 180,000kms of trouble free motoring and knowing every nuance of this vehicle, this fault has only just manifested itself on my vehicle. Like jpflorez I too can stop the issue with a wider turning radius. I would love to get the car up on a hoist and have a good look myself, but am considering taking it to both the dealer & a VW specialist here in Perth to get their opinions.

[grtuned]

Fair call 180,000km is not bad, I'd like to know any outcome if you take it to specialist keep us posted. I have noticed this on many bora's with 4 motion and it would be good to get feedback, Like i said i have a feeling that the problem lies within G251 acceleration sensor i dont think that the haldex is "biting" causing the rear wheels to spin at different speeds then causing light to flash i cannot feel anything happening to the rear or wheels don't chirp. I'm also going to test mine using scanner and check all readings if i find something i'll post.

[kapowww]

So if my diff is screwed how much would it cost to replace??

[grtuned]

Haldex can be expensive, if you could get one from a wrecked car with low km's that may be cheaper but hard to find. Possibly genuine
only option. This thread is really interesting more info from others is needed for comparison's. in the meantime i'll keep looking into it
hopefully get some answers..

[grtuned]

Have you tried turning off your ESP?? just wondering!!!

I've experienced very similar issues recently and have yet to have the definitive solution for mine but I'm oh so close. During my testing to replicate the scenarios of crabbing and lurching during tight manoeuvres I've found that in most cases if I dip the clutch slightly a couple of times as I make the turn it seems to take the worst out of it and settle the car down. Not ideal, but it does help in my case. Otherwise I simply remove fuse 31 if I know I've got a bunch of heavy city driving to negotiate.

I'm hoping to swap over my controller temporarily this weekend and hopefully discover that this is the culprit of my woes. I wouldn't be surprised if this is your problem too, it's far more common than I realised when I bought the 4Mo.

All the best, Rossi ; )

[grtuned]

Have you tried turning off the esp and testing opreation???

Simply because after 180,000kms of trouble free motoring and knowing every nuance of this vehicle, this fault has only just manifested itself on my vehicle. Like jpflorez I too can stop the issue with a wider turning radius. I would love to get the car up on a hoist and have a good look myself, but am considering taking it to both the dealer & a VW specialist here in Perth to get their opinions.

[kapowww]

Haldex can be expensive, if you could get one from a wrecked car with low km's that may be cheaper but hard to find. Possibly genuine
only option. This thread is really interesting more info from others is needed for comparison's. in the meantime i'll keep looking into it
hopefully get some answers..

In my car it doesn't seem like it's the haldex.. Feels like it's the rear diff

[grtuned]

On 4-wheel drive vehicles fitted with Haldex
viscous coupling, the front and rear wheels are
joined by a rigid coupling. The calculated true
vehicle road speed, which is determined from the
individual speeds, may be too inaccurate under
certain conditions at low coefficients of friction
and when the Haldex viscous coupling is closed.
The longitudinal acceleration measured is used
to verify the calculated vehicle road speed.

[grtuned]

This is some data i've found regarding operation of the sensor which i think could be causing these issues

on 4-wheel drive vehicles fitted with haldex
viscous coupling, the front and rear wheels are
joined by a rigid coupling. The calculated true
vehicle road speed, which is determined from the
individual speeds, may be too inaccurate under
certain conditions at low coefficients of friction
and when the haldex viscous coupling is closed.
The longitudinal acceleration measured is used
to verify the calculated vehicle road speed.

[grtuned]

Also fuse is definatley 5amp for haldex located at number 31 in fuse boxQUOTE=grtuned;702651]This is some data i've found regarding operation of the sensor which i think could be causing these issues[/QUOTE]

[kapowww]

This is some data i've found regarding operation of the sensor which i think could be causing these issues

And in English? lol

Is it saying it's a natural thing under certain conditions, or only if it's faulty?

In my car it feels as if just one rear wheel is dragging, not both the rear wheels. That's why I think it's the rear diff. Feels as if the clutch/spring packs are screwed and when going slow it doesn't have enough torque to over power the clutch in the diff to make it spin the same speed. Maybe I need to look from outside the car because I noticed when my wife dropped me off and turned tight it left skid marks (the rubber kind) but don't know which wheel(s) left them.

Also in regards to me removing fuse 31 to disable the haldex: I asked earlier.. If the fuse is removed then it is only FWD and takes the haldex AND rear diff out of the question?

[popeclement]

Hi jpflorez - in ref to your comment above, there is no clutch in the diff - the haldex coupling is an integral system ahead of the diff.

I know you have said you have had the system refilled with new oil and filter but it may be some components not working such as the electric pump/regulating valve. I think mechanically unless the car has been thrashed it is unlikely to be a diff issue. There are so many inputs into the Haldex controller from speed, accel & yaw sensors, it really requires someone with a good understanding of the codes to figure this out.

I don't believe there are any dealers even though they have the equipment, with enough master techs & familiarity on the system.

Maybe an Audi specialist may have the necessary experience?

[wai]

When I do a u-turn in my Bora 4mo at slow speeds I see the ESP light flash on and off and feel it braking a bit and it gets a bit jolty. I've only had this car for a very short time but since I believe it's similar to my old Audi A4 B6 1.8TQ surely it shouldn't be doing this?

What do you mean by "low speeds"? ESP should only kick in if the parameters of wheel speed, road speed, steering input, accelerator input, etc., all tell it to activate. Get it checked out, and also try and see if there is something else that is causing it to kick in.

[kapowww]

Hi jpflorez - in ref to your comment above, there is no clutch in the diff - the haldex coupling is an integral system ahead of the diff.

I don't believe there are any dealers even though they have the equipment, with enough master techs & familiarity on the system.

Maybe an Audi specialist may have the necessary experience?

Well the car's been checked by 3 mechanics at this stage. One a VW dealer and one is the best Audi/VW mechanic here in Melbourne (according to most on ozaudi.com and I've been seeing him for years). None can get a good answer. He says it's the clutch in the rear diff, not a problem with the haldex. Can you explain what you mean by no clutch in the diff?

What do you mean by "low speeds"? ESP should only kick in if the parameters of wheel speed, road speed, steering input, accelerator input, etc., all tell it to activate. Get it checked out, and also try and see if there is something else that is causing it to kick in.

We've figure out it shouldn't be a problem with the ESP but the ESP light flashes when this problem happens. Too bad the title of this thread is a bit misleading..