Went to change my oil last night, undoing the drain bolt and bits of thread come out with it!...so i get my pinky in the drain hole and i pull almost the entire thread out, only the last few threads remaining. I've been doing my oil changes for the past 4 yrs, last time it was done my a mech due to major service who said the drain plug washer needs replacing to justify the slow (1 drop a day) leak. I searched this and found it could be the problem so i got a new drain bolt/washer ready for this oil change. Anyway ended up replacing the oil, this morning there was a drop on the ground. Anyone had this problem? Did you re-thread the pan or purchase a new one? or did you chase it up with the mech?
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Oil pan threads almost stripped
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its leaking a bit more than what i saw this morning, there was about 5cm diameter leak on the ground when i got back from work.
once the motor is running i assume the oil is pressurised in the pan so it would leak more, is it safe to drive like this? cheers!1.8T AGU | K04 | GIAC | 380cc | VR6 MAF | Custom Intake | FMIC | TIP | 3bar FPR | N75J | 42DD 3-2.5" TB | GFB DV | FK Highsport | ECS Stage 1 Clutch | OZ FUTURA
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No pressure in the sump, it leaks more because it's thinner.
Gavin
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Depends how far you are driving. Might be OK for 5 minutes up to a repairer but I wouldn't trust it for a long journey.
It's a bit hard without seeing it. If you were able to get it reasonably tight with a spanner then it's probably OK.carandimage The place where Off-Topic is On-Topic
I used to think I was anal-retentive until I started getting involved in car forums
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Originally posted by h100vw View PostNo pressure in the sump, it leaks more because it's thinner.
Gavin
Originally posted by brad View PostDepends how far you are driving. Might be OK for 5 minutes up to a repairer but I wouldn't trust it for a long journey.
It's a bit hard without seeing it. If you were able to get it reasonably tight with a spanner then it's probably OK.
is there a lot of work to get the sump off?
i wouldn't want to re-thread it using one of those methods mentioned above with the sump on.
also, what if i didn't get the thread pieces out.
obviously the oil goes through the filter and the oil pickup tube in the sump also has some sort of mesh on it but what are the chances of something getting through?1.8T AGU | K04 | GIAC | 380cc | VR6 MAF | Custom Intake | FMIC | TIP | 3bar FPR | N75J | 42DD 3-2.5" TB | GFB DV | FK Highsport | ECS Stage 1 Clutch | OZ FUTURA
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Originally posted by schwartza3 View Posti wouldn't want to re-thread it using one of those methods mentioned above with the sump on.
also, what if i didn't get the thread pieces out.
obviously the oil goes through the filter and the oil pickup tube in the sump also has some sort of mesh on it but what are the chances of something getting through?carandimage The place where Off-Topic is On-Topic
I used to think I was anal-retentive until I started getting involved in car forums
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Don't Helicoil it. They're terrible. I'd Keysert it or something similar. Use Loctite High Temperature thread sealant with Teflon on the keysert to stop the oil wicking out through the outer thread.
It's going to cost a little bit to get that done because of the diameter of the thread, but it's well worth going for a keysert/timesert etc. Helicoils are a last resort in my opinion and not a good idea in aluminium.
Keysert...
Timesert..
Last edited by Preen59; 10-08-2009, 09:11 PM.
APR Tuned | KW Suspension | INA Engineering | Mocal Oil Control |
Website: http://www.tprengineering.com
Email: chris@tprengineering.com
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Fit a piggy back sump plug, which taps a new thread and becomes a fixed plug. The piggy back part is in the centre of the bolt which is actaully your new sump bolt, if that makes sense, so in essence your old plug 19mm spanner size will be the fixed plug with an over size thread into the sump, and in the middle of that your new sump bolt size will be around 15mm spanner size. Top fix and no need to worry anymore about stripped threads.
Done this fix already on dubs and a few Porsches
Here is an example
Cheers
JmacLast edited by Jmac; 11-08-2009, 09:19 PM.Alba European
Service, Diagnostics and repairs. Mobile Diag available on request
Audi/VW/Porsche Factory trained tech 25+ yrs exp
For people who value experience call 0423965341
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Originally posted by Jmac View PostFit a piggy back sump plug, which taps a new thread and becomes a fixed plug. The piggy back part is in the centre of the bolt which is actaully your new sump bolt, if that makes sense, so in essence your old plug 19mm spanner size will be the fixed plug with an over size thread into the sump, and in the middle of that your new sump bolt size will be around 15mm spanner size. Top fix and no need to worry anymore about stripped threads.
Done this fix already on dubs and a few Porsches
Here is an example
Cheers
Jmac
APR Tuned | KW Suspension | INA Engineering | Mocal Oil Control |
Website: http://www.tprengineering.com
Email: chris@tprengineering.com
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Originally posted by Preen59 View PostThat's even better than what i suggested. Never heard of them before! Nice! Use that!
Cheers
JmacAlba European
Service, Diagnostics and repairs. Mobile Diag available on request
Audi/VW/Porsche Factory trained tech 25+ yrs exp
For people who value experience call 0423965341
Comment
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Originally posted by Jmac View PostFit a piggy back sump plug, which taps a new thread and becomes a fixed plug. The piggy back part is in the centre of the bolt which is actaully your new sump bolt, if that makes sense, so in essence your old plug 19mm spanner size will be the fixed plug with an over size thread into the sump, and in the middle of that your new sump bolt size will be around 15mm spanner size. Top fix and no need to worry anymore about stripped threads.
Done this fix already on dubs and a few Porsches
Here is an example
Cheers
Jmac
whats the sump bolt diameter?
the only downside i can see with this is that you may not be able to drain the last bit of oil from the bottom of the sump but i guess you can run a bit of clean oil through that would push the old oil out.1.8T AGU | K04 | GIAC | 380cc | VR6 MAF | Custom Intake | FMIC | TIP | 3bar FPR | N75J | 42DD 3-2.5" TB | GFB DV | FK Highsport | ECS Stage 1 Clutch | OZ FUTURA
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Pretty sure its M14x1.5 but you will want to go 1st oversize perhaps.
Cheers
JmacAlba European
Service, Diagnostics and repairs. Mobile Diag available on request
Audi/VW/Porsche Factory trained tech 25+ yrs exp
For people who value experience call 0423965341
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im having trouble finding this. tried repco, few other auto part places along with a few bolt specialist, most have never heard of it.
here are a few i tried:
burson
champion parts - only ones that have heard of it
pistons auto parts
cost less bolts
bearing wholesalers
anyone have any suggestions?
cheers!1.8T AGU | K04 | GIAC | 380cc | VR6 MAF | Custom Intake | FMIC | TIP | 3bar FPR | N75J | 42DD 3-2.5" TB | GFB DV | FK Highsport | ECS Stage 1 Clutch | OZ FUTURA
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