Above Forum Ad

Collapse

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Oil pan threads almost stripped

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Oil pan threads almost stripped

    Went to change my oil last night, undoing the drain bolt and bits of thread come out with it!...so i get my pinky in the drain hole and i pull almost the entire thread out, only the last few threads remaining. I've been doing my oil changes for the past 4 yrs, last time it was done my a mech due to major service who said the drain plug washer needs replacing to justify the slow (1 drop a day) leak. I searched this and found it could be the problem so i got a new drain bolt/washer ready for this oil change. Anyway ended up replacing the oil, this morning there was a drop on the ground. Anyone had this problem? Did you re-thread the pan or purchase a new one? or did you chase it up with the mech?
    1.8T AGU | K04 | GIAC | 380cc | VR6 MAF | Custom Intake | FMIC | TIP | 3bar FPR | N75J | 42DD 3-2.5" TB | GFB DV | FK Highsport | ECS Stage 1 Clutch | OZ FUTURA

  • #2
    helicoil, twinsert, other thread restoration device required.
    carandimage The place where Off-Topic is On-Topic
    I used to think I was anal-retentive until I started getting involved in car forums

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by brad View Post
      helicoil, twinsert, other thread restoration device required.
      Yep thats the cheapest way to go , don't replace the sump, inless you can get one really cheap.
      1993 MK1 CAB ! Work in Progress........

      Comment


      • #4
        its leaking a bit more than what i saw this morning, there was about 5cm diameter leak on the ground when i got back from work.
        once the motor is running i assume the oil is pressurised in the pan so it would leak more, is it safe to drive like this? cheers!
        1.8T AGU | K04 | GIAC | 380cc | VR6 MAF | Custom Intake | FMIC | TIP | 3bar FPR | N75J | 42DD 3-2.5" TB | GFB DV | FK Highsport | ECS Stage 1 Clutch | OZ FUTURA

        Comment


        • #5
          No pressure in the sump, it leaks more because it's thinner.

          Gavin
          optimumcode@gmail.com | https://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/for...i-;-79012.html | https://www.facebook.com/TTY-Euro-107982291992533

          Comment


          • #6
            Depends how far you are driving. Might be OK for 5 minutes up to a repairer but I wouldn't trust it for a long journey.

            It's a bit hard without seeing it. If you were able to get it reasonably tight with a spanner then it's probably OK.
            carandimage The place where Off-Topic is On-Topic
            I used to think I was anal-retentive until I started getting involved in car forums

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by h100vw View Post
              No pressure in the sump, it leaks more because it's thinner.

              Gavin
              ok, that was my main concern, i wasn't sure if there is pressure in the sump.

              Originally posted by brad View Post
              Depends how far you are driving. Might be OK for 5 minutes up to a repairer but I wouldn't trust it for a long journey.

              It's a bit hard without seeing it. If you were able to get it reasonably tight with a spanner then it's probably OK.
              i didn't tighten it hard because there are only maybe 3-4 threads left. Before i filled it up with oil last night, i poured half a litre in to see how bad the leakage would be, after seeing a bit of oil collecting at the bolt only couple of minutes later i tightened it a little more.

              is there a lot of work to get the sump off?
              i wouldn't want to re-thread it using one of those methods mentioned above with the sump on.
              also, what if i didn't get the thread pieces out.
              obviously the oil goes through the filter and the oil pickup tube in the sump also has some sort of mesh on it but what are the chances of something getting through?
              1.8T AGU | K04 | GIAC | 380cc | VR6 MAF | Custom Intake | FMIC | TIP | 3bar FPR | N75J | 42DD 3-2.5" TB | GFB DV | FK Highsport | ECS Stage 1 Clutch | OZ FUTURA

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by schwartza3 View Post
                i wouldn't want to re-thread it using one of those methods mentioned above with the sump on.
                also, what if i didn't get the thread pieces out.
                obviously the oil goes through the filter and the oil pickup tube in the sump also has some sort of mesh on it but what are the chances of something getting through?
                Look in the Yellow Pages. There used to be a mobile helicoil guy that did this stuff all the time. I've had him helicoil sparkplug threads in situ & also sump threads. He puts grease on the tap and the metal shavings stick to it. No problemo. That guy saved me hours of labour & a small fortune when I was swinging spanners (you can't prove a stripped thread was already like that, so you just have to wear it.)
                carandimage The place where Off-Topic is On-Topic
                I used to think I was anal-retentive until I started getting involved in car forums

                Comment


                • #9
                  Don't Helicoil it. They're terrible. I'd Keysert it or something similar. Use Loctite High Temperature thread sealant with Teflon on the keysert to stop the oil wicking out through the outer thread.

                  It's going to cost a little bit to get that done because of the diameter of the thread, but it's well worth going for a keysert/timesert etc. Helicoils are a last resort in my opinion and not a good idea in aluminium.


                  Keysert...


                  Timesert..
                  Last edited by Preen59; 10-08-2009, 09:11 PM.

                  APR Tuned | KW Suspension | INA Engineering | Mocal Oil Control |
                  Website: http://www.tprengineering.com
                  Email: chris@tprengineering.com

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Fit a piggy back sump plug, which taps a new thread and becomes a fixed plug. The piggy back part is in the centre of the bolt which is actaully your new sump bolt, if that makes sense, so in essence your old plug 19mm spanner size will be the fixed plug with an over size thread into the sump, and in the middle of that your new sump bolt size will be around 15mm spanner size. Top fix and no need to worry anymore about stripped threads.
                    Done this fix already on dubs and a few Porsches
                    Here is an example

                    Cheers
                    Jmac
                    Last edited by Jmac; 11-08-2009, 09:19 PM.
                    Alba European
                    Service, Diagnostics and repairs. Mobile Diag available on request
                    Audi/VW/Porsche Factory trained tech 25+ yrs exp
                    For people who value experience call 0423965341

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Jmac View Post
                      Fit a piggy back sump plug, which taps a new thread and becomes a fixed plug. The piggy back part is in the centre of the bolt which is actaully your new sump bolt, if that makes sense, so in essence your old plug 19mm spanner size will be the fixed plug with an over size thread into the sump, and in the middle of that your new sump bolt size will be around 15mm spanner size. Top fix and no need to worry anymore about stripped threads.
                      Done this fix already on dubs and a few Porsches
                      Here is an example

                      Cheers
                      Jmac
                      That's even better than what i suggested. Never heard of them before! Nice! Use that!

                      APR Tuned | KW Suspension | INA Engineering | Mocal Oil Control |
                      Website: http://www.tprengineering.com
                      Email: chris@tprengineering.com

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Preen59 View Post
                        That's even better than what i suggested. Never heard of them before! Nice! Use that!
                        Yeah after repairing a few got the u know whats and this was the solution. Works good mate. Just replace the sump washer from there on in. Im sure Repco can supply these now, they have a catoluge you just have to give them the measurements for hole size. You will want to go 1st oversize for sure.
                        Cheers
                        Jmac
                        Alba European
                        Service, Diagnostics and repairs. Mobile Diag available on request
                        Audi/VW/Porsche Factory trained tech 25+ yrs exp
                        For people who value experience call 0423965341

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Jmac View Post
                          Fit a piggy back sump plug, which taps a new thread and becomes a fixed plug. The piggy back part is in the centre of the bolt which is actaully your new sump bolt, if that makes sense, so in essence your old plug 19mm spanner size will be the fixed plug with an over size thread into the sump, and in the middle of that your new sump bolt size will be around 15mm spanner size. Top fix and no need to worry anymore about stripped threads.
                          Done this fix already on dubs and a few Porsches
                          Here is an example

                          Cheers
                          Jmac
                          thanks mate, im definitely going with this.
                          whats the sump bolt diameter?
                          the only downside i can see with this is that you may not be able to drain the last bit of oil from the bottom of the sump but i guess you can run a bit of clean oil through that would push the old oil out.
                          1.8T AGU | K04 | GIAC | 380cc | VR6 MAF | Custom Intake | FMIC | TIP | 3bar FPR | N75J | 42DD 3-2.5" TB | GFB DV | FK Highsport | ECS Stage 1 Clutch | OZ FUTURA

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Pretty sure its M14x1.5 but you will want to go 1st oversize perhaps.
                            Cheers
                            Jmac
                            Alba European
                            Service, Diagnostics and repairs. Mobile Diag available on request
                            Audi/VW/Porsche Factory trained tech 25+ yrs exp
                            For people who value experience call 0423965341

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              im having trouble finding this. tried repco, few other auto part places along with a few bolt specialist, most have never heard of it.
                              here are a few i tried:
                              burson
                              champion parts - only ones that have heard of it
                              pistons auto parts
                              cost less bolts
                              bearing wholesalers

                              anyone have any suggestions?
                              cheers!
                              1.8T AGU | K04 | GIAC | 380cc | VR6 MAF | Custom Intake | FMIC | TIP | 3bar FPR | N75J | 42DD 3-2.5" TB | GFB DV | FK Highsport | ECS Stage 1 Clutch | OZ FUTURA

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X