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  • Reco's on oil anyone?

    Hi all, In the very near future I will changing the timing chain in my VR6. Seeing motor will be out, i figured a good time to also change oil pan, drive belts and do a general service.
    Motor is currently running Mobil 1 Fully Synthetic 0/50 but have a feeling it may be to thin.
    What would you recommend as a replacement? I'm thinking a 5/30....Any suggestions welcome...

  • #2
    Hi there, the oil is is not too thin. I have used Mobil 1 0/50 for the street and track and have not had any problems. The 0/50 is a 50 weight oil, the 0 bit on the label is how this oil behaves when the ambient temp is low. This however does not mean the oil starts off thin and then progressively becomes thicker. Use the search function, there is a lot of info around oils. The 5/30 is a 30 weight oil. You can safely use whatever your VR6 manual recommends. If you feel you need a thicker oil then go for a 15/50 or 20/50. As for brands: Mobil, Liqui Moly. Good luck with your choice.

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    • #3
      Hi Fred, to be perefectly honnest, I really dont know if I need a thicker oil or not. My VR6 is a 94 and is sitting at about 198,000km. The car seems to run fine, but as with all owners and enthusiasts, always looking to try and improve and run better.
      The car to my knowledge has been running Mobil 1 0/50 for about 4 years.

      Comment


      • #4
        This one of the recommended oils when I first got my VR6:



        The only issue was that my car seemed to just drink the stuff, although up to 1L / 1000km of oil is considered normal. In the end I switched to Castrol GTX2 20W/50 and significantly reduced the oil consumption (and had an oil that was far cheaper). I changed it every 6 months regardless of km's and it never had any issues.

        Castrol Australia - Castrol GTX 20W-50

        Lots of people commented that it was too think an oil, but then the VR6 is a bloody hot engine in a hot Australian climate.

        The other alternative that was commonly thrown around was Magnatec 10W40:
        Castrol Magnatec - Product

        If it has an engine or heartbeat it's going to cost you.

        Comment


        • #5
          without relating to new VW engines and their requirements, in my experience you can use pretty much any good quality oil and get good results.

          Over the years, in petrol and diesel dubs (from the 90's and older) I have used everything from 5W-30 to 25W-60 and never really had any problems.

          IMO, I wouldnt bother using a 0W oil in a VR6 or other petrol n/a 90's VW engine - just seems like spending more money than you need to. But, if it works for your piece of mind

          Penrite make a nice 15W40 synthetic that is a great price - recently used in in my brother Ibiza GTI and also sisters Pug 206 and it seems very appropriate.

          Certainly it stood up to the nationals supersprint well in the GTI.
          '07 Touareg V6 TDI with air suspension
          '98 Mk3 Cabriolet 2.0 8V
          '99 A4 Quattro 1.8T

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          • #6
            Originally posted by gldgti View Post
            without relating to new VW engines and their requirements, in my experience you can use pretty much any good quality oil and get good results.

            Over the years, in petrol and diesel dubs (from the 90's and older) I have used everything from 5W-30 to 25W-60 and never really had any problems.

            IMO, I wouldnt bother using a 0W oil in a VR6 or other petrol n/a 90's VW engine - just seems like spending more money than you need to. But, if it works for your piece of mind

            Penrite make a nice 15W40 synthetic that is a great price - recently used in in my brother Ibiza GTI and also sisters Pug 206 and it seems very appropriate.

            Certainly it stood up to the nationals supersprint well in the GTI.
            ok. good to know. Even though these motors run hot, i really dont think i need a 0, especially a 0/50. ill give the 15/40 a try and see how we go..

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by The_Hawk View Post
              This one of the recommended oils when I first got my VR6:



              The only issue was that my car seemed to just drink the stuff, although up to 1L / 1000km of oil is considered normal. In the end I switched to Castrol GTX2 20W/50 and significantly reduced the oil consumption (and had an oil that was far cheaper). I changed it every 6 months regardless of km's and it never had any issues.

              Castrol Australia - Castrol GTX 20W-50

              Lots of people commented that it was too think an oil, but then the VR6 is a bloody hot engine in a hot Australian climate.

              The other alternative that was commonly thrown around was Magnatec 10W40:
              Castrol Magnatec - Product
              Thanks for the advice, much appreciated

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Tubbs76 View Post
                ok. good to know. Even though these motors run hot, i really dont think i need a 0, especially a 0/50. ill give the 15/40 a try and see how we go..
                I think you will find it suitable. I was really surprised how well the oil went for the track day. I expected it to be blackended and degraded, but after the drive from gosford to goulburn, 27 laps and home again, it looked as new as the day before when we put it in there.
                Oil temps on the track never got over 90C!
                '07 Touareg V6 TDI with air suspension
                '98 Mk3 Cabriolet 2.0 8V
                '99 A4 Quattro 1.8T

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                • #9
                  I've tried a few oils over the years. Started out with the Fuchs as above, then went to Penrite SIN (15/40 i think?), then Motul 4100 turbolight (10w/40), then Castrol Magnatec (10w/40).

                  Quite honestly the magnatec was fine for just normal a-to-b driving. The penrite stuff was awesome for beating the hell out of the engine, and motul was pretty good too for revving right to redline but really, my car is just transport, not a track weapon, so I left it at magnatec. Cheapest of the lot too!

                  My old housemate used to use Penrite HPR15 in his vr6, so thats another option as well.
                  Last edited by MattyT; 14-06-2013, 05:41 PM.
                  1996 Golf VR6 Colour Concept Green

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by gldgti View Post
                    I think you will find it suitable. I was really surprised how well the oil went for the track day. I expected it to be blackended and degraded, but after the drive from gosford to goulburn, 27 laps and home again, it looked as new as the day before when we put it in there.
                    Oil temps on the track never got over 90C!
                    Not sure how accurate the engine temp is on the tacho (is oil temp and engine temp the same?)but dependant on whether just putting around or pushing hard, ive seen it register anywhere from 98-108. I normally find im hovering around the 102ish mark

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Tubbs76 View Post
                      Not sure how accurate the engine temp is on the tacho (is oil temp and engine temp the same?)but dependant on whether just putting around or pushing hard, ive seen it register anywhere from 98-108. I normally find im hovering around the 102ish mark
                      Any vr6 (excluding track beaters) that goes over 102deg in oil is quite a bad thing !!
                      You should give your cooling system a going over.
                      As for the oil, stay in the 40,50 weight, I think you should go with something that's 1 thicker.
                      Garage:
                      VR6
                      XR6
                      R36

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by KKK VR6 View Post
                        Any vr6 (excluding track beaters) that goes over 102deg in oil is quite a bad thing !!
                        You should give your cooling system a going over.
                        As for the oil, stay in the 40,50 weight, I think you should go with something that's 1 thicker.
                        I've just done the cooling system including all new hoses, crack pipe, thermostat, thermostat housing, flanges, o rings, etc. I've noticed I get up to 108 on highway driving and norm around 100-102 just putting around. Thought would have been another way around? Having said this, due for a service, change of oil needed and def needs plugs. I'm holding out (trying to) another 6 odd weeks as I'm about to hit 200km and am getting timing chain done so it makes sense to do it all in one go..

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                        • #13
                          By chance, in the parts shop on weekend and came across the Penrite. Very good value for money considering the cost of the other oils.

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                          • #14
                            If you do a bit more than just the chains, like bottom end bearing, lifters/springs/valve stem seals, then you can change over to a 15W-40 I've got in mind.
                            That's when you decide to put just that little extra in and get a small treat with some better cams
                            Garage:
                            VR6
                            XR6
                            R36

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by KKK VR6 View Post
                              That's when you decide to put just that little extra in and get a small treat with some better cams
                              The parts themselves aren't too expensive... it's usually the cost (or time) to rip it all apart which makes it less attractive... but if it's going to be apart anyway...

                              If it has an engine or heartbeat it's going to cost you.

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