problem worthy of lols...

[DubSteve]

Must be rocket science if you can't figure it out, Mickey..

Hahahaha sorry was just too funny not to quote, good luck though

[Golf Houso]

Isn't it likely to be something to do with the manifold since its the last thing you changed on the car

[Mrk_Mickey]

What's so hard about unbolting an old manifold and bolting on another?

Nothing.




What's gone wrong with any other specifications that I don't know about?

Gee, I think if I knew, I wouldn't be asking anyone else.



Manifold is on, and it's fine. Something that I'm not sure of has obviously not enjoyed the manifold change and is now giving me issues to have to deal with. That's why I'm asking, because I'm not sure on what it is and it's usually worth asking a nice bunch of people on a forum because lots of people know different things. If you've got nothing constructive to add to the thread then just save your time, and whinge about me doing my own manifold change on vortex or something.



Anyone else?

[Stephy]

I know it's a cow of a job, but if it was me and I was doing it myself (chances of that in reality are slim to none though) i'd put the old one back on and see if it did the same thing... Is that good logic or have i just said something really stupid and need to get back in my box?

Or if you have my luck - as soon as you fix one thing, another thing goes wrong (i've been without my VR more often than not in the last month because of that happening).

Annnother thing i just thought of before i posted - one of my friends had a massive crack/leak in his manifold and lost about 70kw and it used to sputter and carry on, it is on a Mitsubishi RVR though (he dyno'd it before when it was running fine and when it was stuffed).

[Mrk_Mickey]

I know it's a cow of a job, but if it was me and I was doing it myself (chances of that in reality are slim to none though) i'd put the old one back on and see if it did the same thing... Is that good logic or have i just said something really stupid and need to get back in my box?

Or if you have my luck - as soon as you fix one thing, another thing goes wrong (i've been without my VR more often than not in the last month because of that happening).

Annnother thing i just thought of before i posted - one of my friends had a massive crack/leak in his manifold and lost about 70kw and it used to sputter and carry on, it is on a Mitsubishi RVR though (he dyno'd it before when it was running fine and when it was stuffed).

Nah you're on the right track Steph, it is a huge pain but it's exactly what I was planning to do if my old ISV didn't do the trick. I sincerely hope this manifold isn't cracked, either!

[Preen59]

The bit that i don't understand is you are saying it's so easy, then you are saying you can't figure out what is wrong with your car?

When i'm stuck on something i don't know much about, i ask someone in the industry. That usually follows with me paying them an agreed fee and them fixing it for me.

But hey, i'm no expert either.

[Preen59]

Start the engine and spray aerostart around the manifold. If your RPM rises, you have a vacuum leak somewhere. That's fairly easy to determine.

[Stephy]

Start the engine and spray aerostart around the manifold. If your RPM rises, you have a vacuum leak somewhere. That's fairly easy to determine.

There you go! I just learnt something too

[schoona]

Hope it sorts out Mick, unfortunately I don't have anything constructive to add to this thread though!

[Mrk_Mickey]

The bit that i don't understand is you are saying it's so easy, then you are saying you can't figure out what is wrong with your car?

When i'm stuck on something i don't know much about, i ask someone in the industry. That usually follows with me paying them an agreed fee and them fixing it for me.

But hey, i'm no expert either.

What's so hard to figure out? I installed a new manifold, which wasn't physically hard for me to change as I know how to unbolt and bolt a manifold onto my vr6 engine. Like I previously said - the problem I have is with stalling, and I don't know why it's happening or what it has or has not got to do with my new manifold, which is why I asked about the problem on here.

The manifold came bolted together with things like the throttle body, ISV, vacuum lines, intake temp sensor...all these things might be causing a problem but I don't know, hence why I asked if anyone else did.

[Tim]

perhaps you should start by swapping your old tb, ISV etc back on.
See if it still does it.

[mikinoz]

Are you sure the manifold is correctly mated?

[Mrk_Mickey]

perhaps you should start by swapping your old tb, ISV etc back on.
See if it still does it.

Yeah that was my next plan of action - which I just came back from doing, with no luck unfortunately.

Are you sure the manifold is correctly mated?

Yeah, all surfaces down properly, gasket in, bolts done up, etc. Checked all that whilst fitting it because it was very tricky to align it in the first place.


Funny piece of news...I decided to unplug the MAF for the sake of it, and the car didn't stall. When the MAF is plugged in, the car drops to idle faster, idles lower, idle is unsteady and it stalls. When the MAF is unplugged, it drops to idle slower, idles at around 1000rpm or just under (at least until about 6 or 8 seconds have gone by), doesn't stall and isn't unsteady.

[mk3pete]

Start the engine and spray aerostart around the manifold. If your RPM rises, you have a vacuum leak somewhere. That's fairly easy to determine.

what is aerostart and where do you buy it from
that sounds like somthing i need to do!!!

[mk3pete]

Yeah that was my next plan of action - which I just came back from doing, with no luck unfortunately.



Yeah, all surfaces down properly, gasket in, bolts done up, etc. Checked all that whilst fitting it because it was very tricky to align it in the first place.


Funny piece of news...I decided to unplug the MAF for the sake of it, and the car didn't stall. When the MAF is plugged in, the car drops to idle faster, idles lower, idle is unsteady and it stalls. When the MAF is unplugged, it drops to idle slower, idles at around 1000rpm or just under (at least until about 6 or 8 seconds have gone by), doesn't stall and isn't unsteady.

maybe clean your MAF with MAF cleaner