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Just be mindful that if you replace one lead and it's in better condition than the rest, it's most likely going to provoke failure of the other leads. Don't ask why that is, that's just something I was told (and something that happened to me) when I head lead problems.
For ~$120, they're worth replacing as a set
Mrk Detailing, premium automotive detailing. Paint correction/protection specialist. PM me
The spark is basically caused by the insulation being buggered or worn through on your ignitions leads. This causes some current to leak through and arc on the spark plug recesses. Replacement is def. the best option, but some electricians tape will restore insulation enough to stop the misfire at least until you get a new set.
The insulation on VR6 HT leads often fails because mechanics use long nose pliers or other 'forcep' style tools to pull the leads, rather than using the VR6 spark lead tool (which usually resides on the bonnet support strut), which mates up to the bayonet style tabs on the plug end of the spark leads and is designed to pull the leads off safely.
Well obviously you've got to match the connection type on the coilpack (i'm not sure how specialised it is/isn't?) and the length; but you've got to get the right lead thickness also - that is, if you still want to be able to plug them into the lines on the engine covers.
Mrk Detailing, premium automotive detailing. Paint correction/protection specialist. PM me
When you say "any leads"... last I looked a set of top gun leads were between $200 and $300 depending on where I asked.
If your keen for a drive, I have my old leads (which had nothing wrong with them) sitting in the garage if you want to borrow them till you get a more permanent solution.
'any leads' are not necessarily any good - the suitable leads have the bayonet style tabs on the plug end, which make it possible to use the VR6 lead pulling tool, mentioned above - this is crucial for pulling the leads out without causing damage. Many of the generic/third party leads don't have this feature. Being that the VR6 has such deep plug recesses, you want to make sure that whatever you buy has the correct tabs.
'any leads' are not necessarily any good - the suitable leads have the bayonet style tabs on the plug end, which make it possible to use the VR6 lead pulling tool, mentioned above - this is crucial for pulling the leads out without causing damage. Many of the generic/third party leads don't have this feature. Being that the VR6 has such deep plug recesses, you want to make sure that whatever you buy has the correct tabs.
I don't know that there is a lot of options for compatible leads, they are either generic's you buy to try and wedge in against better judgement or ones designed to fit regardless of brand (meaning they have the appropriate tabs).
If it has an engine or heartbeat it's going to cost you.
Thanks for the offer mr hawk I may order a set from gap since they are only 90 or so.
I unhooked the lead as said there is a crack. Does look like a caused by a long nose plier. Some insulation tape did the trick, hopefully it would hold for a month or so.
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