A very strange problem!

[Mars3v]

yea I will try to do that too, thanks a lot

[Golf Loon]

Just realized you have a 1.8, not a 2L.

You have no crank angle sensor.

I reckon its the rubber mount under the single point injection unit.
Grab hold of the plastic cover on top of the engine and rock it side to side. If it moves heaps and has a split, you need a new rubber baseplate.

If not its probably timing, jumped tooth, or loose dissy.

On the plus side, the 1.8 is a non interference motor, so even if the timing belt snapped, it will bend no valves

[Mars3v]

Thanks Golf Loon for your continued reply......

While I was taking the car today to the mechanic, it did the same thing 4 times in about 10 kms, so I dropped it to a mechanic I know nearby me, I don't think it could do the distance to VWPower...

when I heard that sound again several times today, I realized that it is exactly the same sound that happens when you give a high gear on a slow speed when you are going up hill, you know when the car starts to shake and then the engine turns off, it is exactly the same but louder and stronger shake...

The mechanic saw the timing belt, he said it is fine and placed properly...

I feel it is a fuel rail problem, however I think that the pump is ok, because I don't hear any strange noises from it, I guess it is in the back like all VWs...

Or it might be cams problem...

The mechanic reckons it might be an electric problem or something in the injectors...

Any ideas guys?

[Mars3v]

Also when I tried to turn the engine on again, I was fully pressing the clutch, so the problem is not related to the gearbox or the clutch...

But the weird thing is that the engine runs completely normal and very smooth after that, thats why I think it is a fuel delivery problem...it is something that is not permanently damaged...

Also, sometimes I notice a sound of tek tek tek while the car is running, low sound and doesn't happen all the time...and it gets faster as the rpm goes higher...I guess it is from the cams

Ideas?

[Jmac]

From experience if it were the Hall sender or crank sensor it would most likely fail altogether, from what you are saying it does sound like fuel. Have u checked ur fuel filter? Wouldnt be the 1st time ive saw MAFs and all types of sensors fitted to find it was merely a blocked filter
Cheers
Jmac

[Golf Loon]

Have you checked the rubber baseplate. Classic symptoms of that.

If its not that, like Jmac says change the fuel filter.

[Mars3v]

Jmac, yea I told the mechanic to check the fuel filter...

Golf Loon, I have read your first reply about the rubber mount after I got back from the mechanic, I'll call him to tell him about it....I wish I have known about the non interference of the 1.8 engine before I went to the mechanic, I was scared to death while driving

Thanks guys for your concern, much appreciated

[jaimo]

Hi Dude,
Have somebody check the engine fault memory, sounds like a problem with the throttle valve control motor. This will log a fault code if faulty. If the base plate is cracked the engine would have this problem all the time, sounds electrical to me.
Jaimo.

[Mars3v]

Guys! finally fixed!!!

jaimo, I'm very sorry mate, I've just seen your reply...no fault code appears, but you are right, it is electrical...

I will tell the whole story...

As I wrote in the last reply, I took it to my mechanic, it stayed with him a week, he said he drove it several times with no problems…anyways, he did the major maintenance, changed the oil, installed the new SplitFire plugs…but he didn’t have a clue on what could have gone wrong….I took the car, I didn’t do 2 kms then it stopped on the free way Grrrrrrrrr I was going to kill sombody…. I drove it home, it stopped again 2 more times in the way ….

So I realised that it’s the time to try VolksPower, I went there Monday the next week, they took the car and told me to call in two hours and they should have found the problem….I called after 2 hrs, they found the problem!! They said it is the ignition barrel, worn out, we have seen that before, no dramas mate ….

But the problem is that the ignition barrel has an immobiliser, so can’t fit a used one, so he took it to the locksmith, replaced the ignition switch…a new one would cost 211… and that took another week and half…but finally fixed and my beast is back roaring, Melbourne streets are not safe anymore

[Mars3v]

Hello Guys,

I don't know where to start from, lots of hassle has happened since my last reply...I will start from there;

As I said, the car seemed to be fixed by VolksPower...Three weeks after I had it back, the car started to do the same fault again, the engine stalls during driving, I went back to VolksPower, he said that it would need a new ignition barrel and recoding of course...he said that he will order it by himself, I kept following with him for 3 weeks, but he didn't do anything...

I ordered the barrel by myself from VW Bayford camberwell , when I was there I thought it would be better to give it to the experts...I gave them the car, they called me later saying that the cause of the problem is the ignition switch not the barrel, they thankfully offered me a refund for the barrel that i bought...they replaced the switch and I paid 610 in total...I took the car and it stalled 3 times in the same day!

I took it back to them the next day, after 2 days, they called and said that they found a fault with the distributor, when I asked whether the switch needed replacement or no, they said yes, it was so damaged that it was leaking oil! anyways, they said that they will be happy to replace the distributor for me if I got a used one from outside or I can order a new one from them....I decided to go with a new one, I got the car 3 days later and paid 954 in total...

Guess what, 3 days later, the engine stalled again and it gets worse day after day that I couldn't drive it for 20 mins without stalling at least 2 times...When I received the receipts, they gave me a a feedback survey to be sent to Hugh Bayford himself, so I decided to complain to him directly this time...after sending the complaint, I received the rudest call ever from the manager of maintenance and he was throwing blames on me because my car is 11 years old and full of problems! (knowing that my car has only done 97,000 kms and in perfect condition)....I received a call from the general manager next day deeply apologizing for that call and offering help, he also offered discounts on maintenance if I decided to go back and promised that they will do their best in finding the problem, he also said that after talking with the maintenance, they said that they are not sure of real cause of the problem but they will do their best!

I asked for returning the parts they fitted and get refund for it but they refused...after some negotiation, I decided to sell the car, they offered to take it from me....I went there, after inspecting my car, they offered me 1500! ...definitely I left and decided not to deal with Bayford group again...

After new year holidays, I found a mechanic near by me...I decided to give him a try, he said the fault is from the ignition coil, it expands with heat...although I asked VW if the coil is ok or no, they confirmed several times that it is working fine....I just got back the car 2 days ago, it seems alright, I hope that will last....

The problem has started in early september 2008, fixed in January 2009 and spent in total 2545$...

During that period, I researched the internet upside down and asked everybody, so to benefit everyone here, I will list all the causes I found that can cause the engine to stall;

- Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF)
- TPS Sensor
- Temperature Sensor
- Engine Speed Sensor (most unlikely)
- Distributor (cap)
- Ignition switch
- Ignition Coil
- Alternator
- Fuel Pump (do fuel pressure test)
- Fuel supply relay

Finally, whoever said that VW knows their cars more than everyone else, was probably drunk or bribed...
and I don't recommend dealing with Bayford group, I felt that they care only for their profit more than anything else...

Thanks for your help to solve the problem...

[dubbed]

That's some seriously bad luck mate. I don't know how you have the patience to persist. If it were mine it probably would've been burnt out or at the bottom of the Yarra by now. Hopefully it's all sorted now and you can enjoy it once again.

[peedman]

Bugger that sucks. Ive got a 96 1.8l as well and i havent had any problems with it mechanical wise (besides the a/c compressor). I hope it doesnt turn u off golfs, i couldnt get enough of em!

[bboyskidz]

i had the exact same problem on my 97 CL. cbf reading through the last 3 pages but have you replaced the seal between the throttle body and the engine? it cracks after a while and lets air in which causes it to stall.

[Mars3v]

Thanks guys for ur replies...

dubbed, actually I thought of torturing the car to death, that will make her suffer more than burning ...but it looks sorted out now, seems fine...

peedman, hopefully I stop VW addict with the minimum money loss possible...in a toyota, you will be changing light bulbs only...I feel VWs are like women, they drive u crazy but u can't get enough of them, may be that's why human psychology is still a mystery ...but I really can't find a car that has the same charisma as Golfs...

bboyskidz, no I didn't replace the throttle body, a fourth mechanic saw it and said its fine...I will keep that in mind next time it stalls

[Golf Loon]

You list is not correct for a CL 1.8L

- Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF) -There is no MAF its part of the Singlepoint Unit
- TPS Sensor - Its part of the singlepoint unit.
- Temperature Sensor - if it blows smoke when cold, its likely to be this
- Engine Speed Sensor (most unlikely) - doesnt have one.
- Distributor (cap) - easy to check and cheap
- Ignition switch - only likey to be this if you have trouble starting the car
- Ignition Coil - Very common to break, get one, if its not that keep it in the car as a spare.
- Alternator - Unlikely, unless the battery is not charging
- Fuel Pump (do fuel pressure test) - Will most likely make it run slow, noit stop
- Fuel supply relay - could be this, cheap and easy to fix.

You have illustrated the problems with going to a main dealer not a VW specialist.

Have you checked the rubber baseplate between the single point unit and the inlet manifold? Grab the plastic air intake on the top and rock it side to side and see if a big slit opens up.

This is the most common problem for intermittant cutting out on a CL.

There is only really 3 reasons it wont run, the basplate for the carby, the temp sensor unit and a problem with the singlepoint unit.

They are the simplest engine and if someone one cant fix that in Melbourne, you should move to Sydney.

Please check the baseplate / gasket.