The Diesel Cabriolet Project

[Brom]

Yeah I should have listened. Anway a reasonably painless swap.

What are your suggestions for fuel lines from the metal lines on the left of the engine bay through to the filter on the right side. Do I need carb., EFI, or special diesel line. I really doubt the pressure is that great from the mechanical pump unit as the supply line from the filter to the pump isnt even hose clamped. I'm going to run the lines around the engine bay rather than move the metal lines as eventually i will put a fuel heater along this hose.

I'm also struggling to source the screw end fittings for the metal lines. Seems to be an uncommon size?

Also all parts I don't want are now up for offers. Add in 'for sale'. PM if your after anything.

[Golf Loon]

I`d use the efi lines and cut the ends off and connect your diesel rubber hoses. And use the 5 speed, dont listen to the Americans.

[Brom]

Thanks Loon, the 5 speed's in. We'll see how it goes.
Also just finished the fuel lines. Kept the metal lines to the wrong side of the bay and then put efi rubber lines around the bay and clamped them on tight. I think it will be fine seeing as it didn't seem to be under extreme pressure before. But if it doesnt work out i'll get some one to crimp the fittings on.

I'm halfway through wiring. I've done the GP line and fuse, Stop solenoid off the coil, and oil pressure switch. Now i'm trying to work out where the thermostat wiring leads to in the cabriolet. I don't have a good wiring diagram. And also where the 'ON' lead goes from the ignition switch.

Also a lame question. How do dashboard lights work? I have the GP indication lamp positive wire to connect to a light. But for neg/earth can i just use the chassis or is there a common earth for the dash i'm yet to uncover?

[Brom]

Actually I think i've been going about this the wrong way. I can almost drop in the GP relay in place of the fuel pump relay after looking at some diagrams.

But i still can't work out what i should do with the thermostat's wiring. Or even if i'm looking at the right wires. Pic to follow.

[Brom]

Are either of these the thermostat wiring?

On the diesel it's just two clips on the left side of the engine at the coolant hose connection. So i'm not sure what i should be connecting up really???

[smithy010]

On the diesel, one is temp gauge and one is oil pressure.

I can't really see from the photos, but i'd reckon the one hanging off the end of the radiator port would be the temp gauge, although it could be a thermofan switch. How about someone with a cabrio pipes up eh?

[Brom]

Those were photos of the petrol before i took it out.
I still have the same problem. i'm completely done (i think) apart from whatever i should wire onto the clips in pic1
The yellow one is the oil pressure switch which both engines had so that was easy. The two clips next to the large coolant hose is labeled as the thermostat connections in my diesel haynes, but i can't figure out which wires i should connect to it now. So many options.
Only otherthing is the alternator. I would have liked to have kept the cabriolets alternator but it didnt fit in the engine bay anymore so the diesels alternator is back on. But wiring is different again.
Blue to blue would make sense. And i'm guessing both reds on the harness connect to the big red wire. Could be wrong.
Apart from this i have diesel in the tank and primed it through using the lift pump. Everythings ready to go i thought. But when i turn the key after giving the glow plugs some time to warm up i only get the starter and the engine doesnt start. I have 12v at the stop solinoid and 12v at the GP's so i don't know why it wont go. Should the GP's be warm to touch after being on for 30 seconds? Or does this sound like a fuel problem again?

[gldgti]

the diesel only has the temp sender on the end of the head on the t piece, and the radiator fan switch on the end of the rad.

the glow plugs should get warm on the end after a good glow (30s).

if not, you may have issues there.

apart from that, fuel could still be a problem. if there's air in hte lines it'll be hard to start on the starter - but a bloody good long roll start will fix it. tow start etc.

put your foot flat to the floor during cranking. also remember theres the cold start advance on the back of the injector pump, that needs a cable to be operated. you'll have a LOT of trouble starting it without that if its cold.

good luck

[Brom]

It was the stop solinoid. Wasn't getting voltage at all A quick change of supply wire and i was off. I'm pretty happy. It drives like a small car should. Well feels like it after driving a festiva the few weeks

What i did with the alternator seems fine. But i havent connected anything to the coolant temp thing yet.

It has to go for a mod vehicle insection before rego but not an engineering report it looks like.

Anyway last call for parts off the 4 door as it gets taken away tomorrow.
Things i've put aside but not neccessarily sold:
Fuel lines, tank, grill, front discs, front hubs (brand new bearings), dash, 2 good black bumpers.
If you want any of this or for me to keep anything else aside PM tonight.

[Golf Loon]

Nice work on getting it going. Must have felt good.
I`d have the bumpers off the donor if they are in sydney please.

[Brom]

The cabby went through the pits yesterday. No worries at all with the swap from diesel to petrol, emmissions or having an older engine. The inspectors loved it so i don't think they were very picky (one wants to but it). Unfortunately it had a marjinal fail on one of the rear drums. But only just so a can of brake cleaner was enough to get it to pass a couple hours later. But i will put new drums and pads on soon as they seem to be the problem.

So it's now registered and i drove home to Sydney last night. It went great and sat on 110 the whole way. Though it doesnt feel like it wants to go much harder like it did in the 5 door. Maybe it's the extra weight or the gear ratio's. But around town the 5 speed is great. You wouldn't know the ratios are out.

It seems i may have a small alternator issue. I had no problems on the highway, but visiting a freind late last night the generator light began to flash at idle. And stalled once. But i haven't checked the v-belt yet. Really a small issue considering the smoothness of the conversion.

Removed cabriolet parts are going up for sale shortly. As will a write-up on what i've done when i get round to it.

[Golf Loon]

Nice work mate.
I have a diesel alternator if you get stuck. And a few sets of rear drums.
Come out with the old parts and do swopsies if you like.

[Peter Jones]

One of my cars is the opposite of what you're doing It's a '79 GLD with a Cabrio K-JEt Motor. I'm fairly familiar with the wiring of both systems.

Here in your first photo I've circled the Thermo Time switch. This is part of the K-Jet injection and controls the 5th injector. You don't need it but this connector shoud have 12v on it when the ignition is on - which may be of use to you.

The second item circled is a bit of a mystery to me. It appears to be a standard VDO temp sender for a 50mm gauge. I'm guessing cabrios had a temp gauge in the console or that I'm missing some part of the k-jet system that this fed back into?



Ok , Here's the money shot, the part circled in red is the temp sender to the instrument cluster, these are the wires you need to move to the end of the head. You may need to swap the sender too I think it's the same size.

You've already figured out the oil switch, the other item is the warm up regulator for the k-jet. It's also not required but will also have 12v on it with ignition on.



Hope that helps.

Pete

[Brom]

Your a champ Peter,
I had only connected the wire circled as Temp Sender (consol) to the end of the head. It's giving me a reading on the dash guage but it's very low. I'll swap it over to the other two tomorrow.
There was so little wiring with the thing. I got my 12v for the stop solinoid from the coil supply and just plugged my glow plug line into the fuse box. Swapping the fuel pump relay for the old glow plug relay was enough. It also means I have the in tank pump to prime the system whilst the glow plugs warm which seems to be working well.

[Peter Jones]

Dash temp wiring seems to vary a bit, I have 2 GLDs, they're only a couple of months different build dates. One has a two wire temp sender and the other one has a single wire temp sender, can't explain why.

I'm not sure why the cabrio motor has 2 temp senders, both are unconnected in my car.

In your case, just to be sure, I'd probably remove the senders from the old motor and attach them to the original wires (along with a grounding wire) and then just heat them up with a hair dryer to see which one makes the gauge move. Whichever one works, screw that into the motor somewhere wet.

Be careful powering things off the ignition coil wiring, it may not be 12v. Some of the petrol golfs had resistive wiring to the coil. If your car had the electronic ignition you're OK. If it had the points ignition chances are it had the "use with resistor" type of coil and the resistive wiring. Check the old coil and see what voltage it has stamped on the base. More than two wires on the starter motor is a telltale too.

Happy wiring!

Pete