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Not yet - still ironing out niggling problems... I probably won't take it out there until it can be driven properly, which is still a few weeks off now The map in the car now looks quite good, but I also need a secondary one for lower boost as the car will need reigning back quite a lot to be even mildly driveable on the street
1976 Project Carbon Mk1 - Sold! | 2015 Lotus Exige Cup | F80 M3 Family Wheels
Well no, actually! You should never use a dyno as the only method of tuning, as you can't replicate the driveability you need in a street car as it's too much of a regulated environment (plus the car runs a lot hotter, no matter how big the fan is)
Dynos make life easier for getting a very solid base map with all the figures right in front of you, but it's still not quite the same as taking out a laptop for half and hour with an O2 probe in the exhaust.
Still an important part of the process, but not the be-all-and-end-all like most people seem to think
1976 Project Carbon Mk1 - Sold! | 2015 Lotus Exige Cup | F80 M3 Family Wheels
What's the Alternator off? I'm in need of one the same. If you could tell me that'd be fan-bloody-tastic.
Nice work. People keep saying my engine is going to be insane, but it'll just be fast. Yours is INSANE!
Hope to see it run some day.
Thanks for the comments all - it's nice to get positive feedback
The alternator is a stock 90amp one from a Mk3. You can get the non-A/C version, which is spring loaded underneath, or the roller-sprung unit as I have (meaning you need to change to a VR6 water pump pulley and use a 6PK1040 belt).
You could use a VR6 alternator (120amp IIRC?), but perhaps a bit excessive for a Mk1
P.S. Re first spin at the nats: is it even possible to drive 'quickly' on the mainland without getting bitchslapped by the police?! Our rules are getting full on down here, but there's still plenty of room for early morning runs
The alternator is a stock 90amp one from a Mk3. You can get the non-A/C version, which is spring loaded underneath, or the roller-sprung unit as I have (meaning you need to change to a VR6 water pump pulley and use a 6PK1040 belt).
Is that a kit? or do you just run a normal non a/c alternator? like off a cl or something? need to sort that out for my project
Looking good Stu.
76 MkI 3 door - daily drive/project - 1.8 5speed
76 MkI 3 door swallowtail - 16v track car
76 MkI 3 door "long term" project
The non-ac ones are spring loaded underneath - they did come on some GL 2.0s but rare as hen's teeth. More chance on a CL, as you say.
They definitely make the conversion easier. When you use a roller tensioned (previously ac) setup in a Mk1, the pulley bolt is very close to the chassis rail, so you really need to 'modify' it - with a hammer... - to get some clearance.
Both serpentine setups require the Mk3 style alternator mount - you can't just bolt on the new alternator in place of the old v-belt dinosaur.
Very worthwhile conversion, though - you can change a belt literally under a minute; it's WAY quieter and smoother aswell
You can buy a kit from INA in the US - good price, but due to the weight, their charge freight is huge Try asking around on here - someone will have one.
1976 Project Carbon Mk1 - Sold! | 2015 Lotus Exige Cup | F80 M3 Family Wheels
I only just went through this thread, dunno how I missed it before.
Awesome car Valver! Did ya start and stop the stop-watch to see how long its taken you? How many 100's of hours has it taken you? haha
Very worthwhile conversion, though - you can change a belt literally under a minute; it's WAY quieter and smoother aswell
Haha, i don't think you'll be able to hear the alternator belt on my engine..
Thanks for the help dude, i'll start sourcing parts now. I'm glad its a VW one, i mainly just want a small alternator because i don't need a ridiculous amount of amps and i wanted it to be nice and compact to fit under the carbies, so i was going to go looking for a Daihatsu alternator or something and make my own brackets, but this is much easier.
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