DUBSTAR'S PROJECT - Weiss Hase - 1976 Golf LS

[dubstar]

The relay plate is part number 135937501A. I tried unsuccessfully through the various VW channels, eventually I dropped into Porsch-a-part, which is just around the corner and they gave me 2 for $20! They came on 924s

If you need one, I can drop by and see if they have anymore.

[roccodingo]

Looks good, you can use position L on the relay plate to run the fuel pump relay instead of mounting it external to the block. only issue is once the pump load exceeds 16 Amps then it cooks pin A8 .

[dubstar]

I thought about that but the connector on the back was empty in the spot for the fuel pump lead and I couldn't find the correct pin at jaycar to add the lead....better to have fresh wiring anyway

[Volksee77]

mate definitely keen for one as I have to wire up a set of 044 pumps shortly

[roccodingo]

Terminals

I thought about that but the connector on the back was empty in the spot for the fuel pump lead and I couldn't find the correct pin at jaycar to add the lead....better to have fresh wiring anyway

Have literally hundreds of new pins here, both the small and larger 4 mm ones. Lmk if you need a few spares .

Luke if your running twin pumps you are prob better off using the later series relay plate as the fuel pump relay is rated at 40 Amps not 16 Amps as are the early units.

Antons car I wired the stock 16A relay to run all the Kjet stuff and trigger a late Mk2 ( 40 Amp ) fuel pump relay soley for the pump.

The current load for the early relay plates using Kjet could not adequately be handled once the pump started drawing more than the design load, relay plate / socket A meltdown.

[dubstar]

Been another long break between posts, but there has been significant progress.
I have been ripping everything I can out of the engine bay in preparation for lifting out the engine and gearbox. I will be posting a bigger summary and possibly a timelapse soon, but in the meantime I need some wiring help as I am trying to remove/update some of the 40 years old wiring in the engine bay.

Here is where the engine bay is at. Wires labelled and almost everything out of the bay.



My question relates to the alternator wiring. I will be upgrading to a 90amp alternator with the bolt down posts (the old one was the rubber plug type).
I just want to know about the blue/white wire that originally went to the B+ terminal on the alternator (the other blue wire is the excitor wire).
It plugs into harness spot A4. On the ‘1976 Golf’ wiring diagram in the workshop manual it says that it should terminate in the C plug on the harness….it doesn’t……..anyway question is. What does this wire do? I have a feeling that it is part of the diagnostic circuit and doesn’t do anything else. Can anyone confirm? I am removing the diagnostics, so if it is, I won’t run a new wire for it.



I will be redoing the power wires as they are fatigued and I really don’t like how ‘light’ they are for the main charging circuit.

[GeorgeMK1]

I always thought it was the wire that goes to the cluster/dash that is connected to the batt light.

[dubstar]

No, that is the other plain blue wire that goes to the D+ terminal.

[GeorgeMK1]

I shall be quiet from now on!

[dubstar]

No, all good ideas are welcome. I mean really, what was the idea behind having the same coloured wire running the same course, but doing 2 different things.....

[Browneye]

I'm fairly sure when I redid my engine bay wiring, the wire only goes to the diagnostic box, and is unnecessary for a newer alternator. My 90amp alternator only needs the battery wire and the exciter wire to work

[dubstar]

It has been a looooooong time since my update, however, a lot has happened in that time.

I originally took Andy off the road on 28-Dec-2016 and, as life gets busy, only go him back on the road on 8-Nov-2017, just under a year.

Here is the how the engine bay looks now



The specs are:

2L AGG bottom end
Mk2 ported/polished head
270deg cam
45 DHLA carbs
Purely mechanical dizzy
Raceland headers
ACD gearbox

It runs beautifully and is an absolute hoot to drive. i have 2 problems that still need fixing. Firstly, there is a bit of smoke on start up, so I think I will need to change the valve stem seals (maybe they sat too long?) and secondly, the headers are touching the steering rack. This is really annoying as I have tried 2 different manifolds and this is the one that touched the least. I am going to give up and take it to an exhaust shop to sort it out, but very annoying!!

Also whilst the car was off the road I painted the engine bay. I have reverted to the original colour code, so it doesn't quite match at the moment, but eventually there will be a fresh respray on the outside which will bring it all together. I also raised the suspension by 15mm all around, just for some comfort and compliance. Finally I got some new tyres and a GTI duckbill to add the final touch.

Pics after first clean (I am painting the badges at the moment)





Other engine pics:









PS, if anyone does have a 6-bolt Mk1 GTI exhaust manifold they will sell, this could be another option for my exhaust woes.

[browndizzle]

Woww shes clean as! 👌🏻 Big ups on the work!

[aprr32]

Can you not space the gearbox mount(snot block) and front steady to adjust the engine angle slightly?

[dubstar]

Good thought, but its just not enough movement. The problem is that the engine leans back, so adding 20mm in height, translates to a movement up and back at the steering rack.