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  • #31
    Still kicking myself for getting rid of that book when I sold my golf 20 years ago.
    1978 MK1 2.0 16v http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...-46488-70.html
    1991 MK2 GTI 2.0 8v, white (RIP) and it's red replacement http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...gti-42078.html
    1997 MK3 CL http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...ml#post1292061
    2001 & 2002 Bora 4motion. http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...st-123823.html

    Comment


    • #32
      Great to see you reversing the evolutional trend,just in time for winter too.

      Hope the mk2 went to a good home??

      Originally posted by Preen59
      I would have gotten wood from the picture message you sent me.. But I was sniffing Nitro, so i already had it. Hahaha.

      Comment


      • #33
        The MK2 went to a forum member in Brisbane who will probably look after it a lot better than I did. He's already washed it and I didn't do that in a year of ownership!

        I've started pulling things off the Polo in preparation for upgrading the Golf. Seat belts went straight in after cutting the "trumpet" on the bottom of the Polo seat belt tensioner. What is that 25cm extension for?
        Last edited by sports racer; 28-04-2011, 01:27 AM.
        1978 MK1 2.0 16v http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...-46488-70.html
        1991 MK2 GTI 2.0 8v, white (RIP) and it's red replacement http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...gti-42078.html
        1997 MK3 CL http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...ml#post1292061
        2001 & 2002 Bora 4motion. http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...st-123823.html

        Comment


        • #34
          Took the Golf through rego yesterday and got knocked back. The little things I can fix easy - too loud, non standard air filter, engine oil leaks. The big killer is all the rust they found under the car. The passenger side floor was so bad someone years ago covered it in fiberglass mat and painted it black. Rego guy wasn't impressed. There's also a lot of rust in the front valence, all around the engine mount. Add to that all the paint blisters at the bottom of the windscreen, lower edges of both front guards, A pillar and around the rear right window.

          Looks like I'm off the road for a few weeks while I do some cutting and welding.

          What's the best way to remove the windscreen without breaking it?
          1978 MK1 2.0 16v http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...-46488-70.html
          1991 MK2 GTI 2.0 8v, white (RIP) and it's red replacement http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...gti-42078.html
          1997 MK3 CL http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...ml#post1292061
          2001 & 2002 Bora 4motion. http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...st-123823.html

          Comment


          • #35
            It really pays to have someone in the know doesn't it. Have you thought about taking it to Pete at cvwc for a try.

            Re windscreen I have had no luck getting a screen out without cutting the seal a little. I start in a top corner in side the car and cut a 50mm flap so I can get an initial flex to start a lead ,then work your way across the top and a little down the side push out as you fold the inner lip of the seal outside the car , further you get easier it is . A gasket scraper and hose removal tool help if not a small flatblade.

            Originally posted by Preen59
            I would have gotten wood from the picture message you sent me.. But I was sniffing Nitro, so i already had it. Hahaha.

            Comment


            • #36
              To remove the windscreen, i use around twenty paddle pop sticks! Sounds silly i know but you start in the corner at the top and stick them in one after the other along the top and down the sides, i havn't broken a window yet and if the seals not perished you dont damage it.
              sigpic
              Mk2 GTI 2 door 1.9l 8v turbo 1st mk2 1st engineered water vw nats 09
              Mk1 twin eng twin turb
              scirocco gti 2.1l 16v turb 6spd
              Audi A4 B5 1.8t

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              • #37
                if the windscreen seal is perished then you can cut the old seal out and save the windscreen. if you want to keep the seal it becomes a little more difficult and is a balancing act between levering/pushing it out without putting to much pressure on the screen from my experience.
                78 2-door 1.8 KR 16v - twin dellorto's

                Comment


                • #38
                  The seal is in good condition so I'll save it. Love the paddle pop method, so simple but effective.

                  When we used to scrap cars years ago we would just push the screens out with 2 feet planted firmly against the inside of the screen. One big push and out they would come but 1 in 5 would break - don't like those odds. Now I just have to go out and buy 20 paddle pops.
                  1978 MK1 2.0 16v http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...-46488-70.html
                  1991 MK2 GTI 2.0 8v, white (RIP) and it's red replacement http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...gti-42078.html
                  1997 MK3 CL http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...ml#post1292061
                  2001 & 2002 Bora 4motion. http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...st-123823.html

                  Comment


                  • #39
                    You can buy paddle pop sticks from craft stores. Saves getting sticky fingers.

                    APR Tuned | KW Suspension | INA Engineering | Mocal Oil Control |
                    Website: http://www.tprengineering.com
                    Email: chris@tprengineering.com

                    Comment


                    • #40
                      Yeah but my way is more fun.
                      1978 MK1 2.0 16v http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...-46488-70.html
                      1991 MK2 GTI 2.0 8v, white (RIP) and it's red replacement http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...gti-42078.html
                      1997 MK3 CL http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...ml#post1292061
                      2001 & 2002 Bora 4motion. http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...st-123823.html

                      Comment


                      • #41
                        Originally posted by sports racer View Post
                        The seal is in good condition so I'll save it. Love the paddle pop method, so simple but effective.

                        When we used to scrap cars years ago we would just push the screens out with 2 feet planted firmly against the inside of the screen. One big push and out they would come but 1 in 5 would break - don't like those odds. Now I just have to go out and buy 20 paddle pops.
                        ahah 1 in 5? my record to date is 1 break from 1 attempt. dismal lol had to buy a new screen at the time which was a b*tch
                        78 2-door 1.8 KR 16v - twin dellorto's

                        Comment


                        • #42
                          I always used my feet, with good success. No brakeages yet!


                          i like volkswagens
                          My blog: http://garagefiftythree.blogspot.com.au/

                          Comment


                          • #43
                            Time to start on the rust.

                            Here's what someone did to hide the rust under the passenger side. The sheet of metal was fibreglassed directly over the rust. There were blobs of fibreglass dripping into the rust holes so no attempt to fix the previous rust, just plate over it. I hope the people responsible get to read this.



                            The rest of the floor isn't too bad. That's only surface rust on the rear passenger side.





                            All the fibreglassed ground off and you can see how much rust there is.





                            Drivers side is pretty good. Will only need a clean up.



                            Compared to the passenger side which will need this much replaced. Luckily the structural piece is in good condition so all I need to do is weld in the gaps.





                            This is a small amount of the crap I scraped off the floor. By the time I was finished this pile was nearly twice as big (including all the fibreglass taken off the underside of the floor).



                            Now I need to borrow a mig or tig welder and fill in the gaps. Shouldn't be too difficult and at least the worst of the rust is fixed. This isn't going to be a rebuild, it's work as fast as possible to get the car back on the road. One day when I get a 2nd car and can afford the time I'll strip the body and do a full rebuild.

                            Cheers

                            Paul
                            Last edited by sports racer; 01-05-2011, 09:09 PM.
                            1978 MK1 2.0 16v http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...-46488-70.html
                            1991 MK2 GTI 2.0 8v, white (RIP) and it's red replacement http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...gti-42078.html
                            1997 MK3 CL http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...ml#post1292061
                            2001 & 2002 Bora 4motion. http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...st-123823.html

                            Comment


                            • #44
                              getting on to it quick smart!

                              good work Paul.


                              i like volkswagens
                              My blog: http://garagefiftythree.blogspot.com.au/

                              Comment


                              • #45
                                Geebus. That's some serious cancer. Good luck with it mate. Good to see you're getting stuck into it.

                                Are you going to tear all the sound deadening up? I would if I was you.

                                APR Tuned | KW Suspension | INA Engineering | Mocal Oil Control |
                                Website: http://www.tprengineering.com
                                Email: chris@tprengineering.com

                                Comment

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