32/36 weber

[GRN_VAGN]

Do i need to run bigger fuel lines for this carby?

Current lines are rather small. (was a diesel car, then converted to petrol)

cause on the donor car is had rather large lines, about 8-10mm atleast.

Just wondering,

Dan

[Jarred]

if you've still got diesel lines they should be plenty fine.

I had the same setup with a 1.6 & standard (smaller) petrol lines, and ran without issue.

do yourself a favour, get all new engine bay fuel hoses. wont cost much, and it's much better than worn leaky cracked old fuel lines!

ADD: if you do find you have problems with fuel delivery (after checking everything is A ok with the carb) a small electric fuel pump should do the trick.

[GRN_VAGN]

i got a electric pump, i got new fuel lines in bay, new clamps, its a 1.8L with extractors, electric dizzy, and weber.

Problem seems to be the car wont start, ive got spark, and im sure ive got fuel. i had it running, idled and revved awesome. now i cant get it to start, i hold key and it will crank, then get a little fire and then continue to crank. and if i turn key all way off the engine ticks over a tad as if ive gone to crank it....

Hmmmm

[Jarred]

how long does it run for?

Timing *may* be out, 180 degrees, it runs like that, just really poorly. Double check the timing. & spark is strong.

[Tim]

and if i turn key all way off the engine ticks over a tad as if ive gone to crank it....

Hmmmm

is this as you stop cranking the engine? If the timing is too far advanced sometimes the engine can spin backwards a revolution or two as you stop cranking it! Have a look in the engine bay whilst you get someone else to crank it. See if thats the case.

[GRN_VAGN]

Thing is, it used to run fun, i drove it home on a hour trip. was awesome as. when i got home, it did "diesel" a bit for 5-6seconds before i let clutch out to stall it.

Not too handy at the timing part, do i just turn dizzy? if so what way? towards rear of car ot front?

When i got it running today i had it idleing for around 5 mins... so im guessing its getting fuel and spark. just dunno why its so hard to start.

[Jarred]

Thing is, it used to run fun, i drove it home on a hour trip. was awesome as. when i got home, it did "diesel" a bit for 5-6seconds before i let clutch out to stall it.

Not too handy at the timing part, do i just turn dizzy? if so what way? towards rear of car ot front?

When i got it running today i had it idleing for around 5 mins... so im guessing its getting fuel and spark. just dunno why its so hard to start.

if you had it idling before, and not anymore, something must have changed. i've still got a fiver on the timing being out.

static timing should be about 6 degrees BTDC(?), there's two marks on the flywheels one for TDC and one smaller one for static timing advance.

just get out there, with a 13mm spanner, try and start her up, and just fiddle till it idles and runs. then go and invest in a strobe light & time it all properly.

[GRN_VAGN]

ok ill make it clear

I picked a BLue Mk1 with this engine in it last saturday. i got in, turned key and it started first pop.

I drove it home which was an hour trip, ran awesome.
It diesel'd a bit when i shut it off at home, but i though it was because the car hadnt been run in a while.

I took that 1.8L out of the blue golf, took the 1.6L out of green one,
Dropped 1.8L in green golf and hooked up the electric pump and everything else the blue one used.

Turned key and nothing, just kept cranking over. eventually started and it idled and revved fine, but i didnt drive it. shut it off, bleed brakes after i got the GTi rotors on. rain came so went inside. 2 hours later i went out and nothing, just kept cranking over.

and when i turn key to crank, it cranks fine, put key back to "on" and its good. turn key all way off and the engine kicks over a tad. not a full turn, but a quick blip...

Ill get timing checked, and ill make sure pump and lines are good. Then go from there.

[paulie71]

ok ill make it clear

I picked a BLue Mk1 with this engine in it last saturday. i got in, turned key and it started first pop.

I drove it home which was an hour trip, ran awesome.
It diesel'd a bit when i shut it off at home, but i though it was because the car hadnt been run in a while.

I took that 1.8L out of the blue golf, took the 1.6L out of green one,
Dropped 1.8L in green golf and hooked up the electric pump and everything else the blue one used.

Turned key and nothing, just kept cranking over. eventually started and it idled and revved fine, but i didnt drive it. shut it off, bleed brakes after i got the GTi rotors on. rain came so went inside. 2 hours later i went out and nothing, just kept cranking over.

and when i turn key to crank, it cranks fine, put key back to "on" and its good. turn key all way off and the engine kicks over a tad. not a full turn, but a quick blip...

Ill get timing checked, and ill make sure pump and lines are good. Then go from there.

Sounds too far advanced as a car too far advanced can start easy then not play ball later on. Agree with other posts here, invest in a timing light, a dwell meter and a Haynes Manual or similar to get the specs

[Jarred]

My vote it still on timing. It's easy to hasve the timing way to far advanced, cause the engine seems 'comfortable' at that level of timing, but it is infact incorrect, and can cause 'dieseling' & etc.

[GRN_VAGN]

Yes, going to borrow timing light and check all that

quick question, do i need both vacuum lines off the dizzy connected. before i pulled the 1.8L out of the donor car, only one was connected to carby, other was just sitting there.

Ive connect it to the brake booster line as it was conencted like that on the 1.6L

would this affect anything?

[Jarred]

take off the all vac lines when doing the static timing (and timing at idle) you really only need (infact you can go with out, but it's better to have) one going vac line going from the dizzy to the brake booster/manifold vac line (to the factory position there)

the dizzy has a vac advance and retard, most people run without the retard as it' was mainly an 'economy' thing back in the day I think.

EDIT: From memory,(though it's been a while since I've done timing on a petrol!) to advance the timing turn the dizzy CCW & to retart turn CW.

[Spyda]

take off the all vac lines when doing the static timing (and timing at idle) you really only need (infact you can go with out, but it's better to have) one going vac line going from the dizzy to the brake booster/manifold vac line (to the factory position there)

the dizzy has a vac advance and retard, most people run without the retard as it' was mainly an 'economy' thing back in the day I think.

EDIT: From memory,(though it's been a while since I've done timing on a petrol!) to advance the timing turn the dizzy CCW & to retart turn CW.

Dude i hope you can give me a hand when i do my 1.9 webber.

[Jarred]

yea no worries bro, i'm on hols next week.

[GRN_VAGN]

Well, took timing belt cover off this morning, lined up TDC and realised the rotor was pointing towards cylinder 3. explains why it didnt start.

Now i got it pointing directly at one, pumped throttle couple of times and bam it started. rough, but started. turned the dizzy clockwise about 8-10mm and it starts better, but you cant use anymore then like a 8th of the throttle or is nose dives and coughs.

So, getting it booked in for a tune/service/check over next week. cant wait . even as it runs now, its still quicker then the 1.6 lol