can't break CV nut loose?

[Jarred]

tool shouldn't be highly important, as long as it's not busted.

the key part for CV nuts is torque, seriously. borrow a street sign if you have too, it'll be a piece of cake.

[MiKe1_golf]

but rather than the nut turning the torque is bending the steel rather than imparting more torque to the nut. street sign will just make it easier for me to bend the tool.

[Jarred]

ideally, the street sign, or other large pole, will fit snuggly over the tool, which means that the whole torque arm of the tool is being used by the pole, rather than just a small section of it.

hope that makes sense. FTR, my pole is just some 20mmRHS. fits reasonably snuggly over my rachet.

[gldgti]

hey mate - you mentioned you have a kingchrome set - use it. it will be fine. use the breaker bar and the socket with 6" extension if you have to for clearnace. use a block of wood or bricks under the end of the bar (at the pivot point) to support it so you dont mis-align the socket on the hub-nut.

bunnings does sell stanley and kinchrome stuff but you'll be hard pressed to get a breaker bar there thats not in a set.... so you might want to look for a tool shop. sometimes places like BOC will have what you need.

a rattle gun/impact wrench will N-E-V-E-R undo one of these hub-nuts if its on there good and tight. tightest one i've ever had to undo had my full weight on it at 2.2m.... thats about 1800nm.

[Inksta]

I did exactly this on Saturday. Stood on my old, worn, brandless ratchet and it broke. Bought a kingchrome ratchet, applied a full length of exhaust pipe, and it came off with no problems.

Satisfaction plus!

The ratchet was from Mitre 10 and cost me about $55.

[MiKe1_golf]

my king chrome set is only the 1/4 inch drive set though. my 30mm socket is 1/2 inch. haha i've always got an excuse don't I!

i've ducked out to a few shops on my lunch breaks at work and everything is too big or too small or $80. gonna see if i can borrow something from a mate. as i'm a cheap skate

[Jarred]

you've been using a 1/4" set.

well there's your problem. stop being tight and get a 1/2" set, can't work on a golf without one!

[MiKe1_golf]

it's fine for anything up to about 23mm or so. does the job. broke another breaker bar today trying

[gtimk5]

In 35 years I have NEVER had any problem undoing rear beetle, kombi, front golf or transporter hub nuts.
I always use a 3/4 drive bar and a metre of steam pipe. Golfs are by far the easiest in my thoughts. Kombis with the shallow 46 m/m rear hub nuts are 4 times tighter than any golf, by far.
Andrew

[Golf Loon]

Might have to buy me some beers and I`ll come to your house with a big bar and undoo it for you.

[MiKe1_golf]

Might have to buy me some beers and I`ll come to your house with a big bar and ...

i love it when u talk dirty matt.

if i havent had any luck after the weekend i might take you up on that.

[v.w.dave]

What I have had to do in the past

I have been in a big old truck a few years ago and had a flat. The lug nuts were the same way. The trucks kit had a small bar to help brake them loose but they were wayyyy to tight.
What I ended up doing was place the socket on the lug nut and set the braker bar so that it was just bairly off the ground then got back in the truck and slowly drove it forward. In doing so it was braking loose the lug nuts. I did this for ever nut and it worked.
Just a crazy idea that worked for me could help you out some time.

[MiKe1_golf]

finally got it undone. bought a $50 staney tool thing. still couln't get it to budge untill i got the mrs to stand on the brake and it came undone easy.

i think the issue was the drive shaft had come out of the cv joint so when i was trying to undo the nut everything was twisting rather than the nut turning. all good now though. thanks for the tips fellas