Taking care of a used 2.0 TDI ?

[jaackyy]

Hey all,

In a few days I'm going to be the owner of my first car/diesel, it's an '06 MK5 2.0 Golf TDI Comfortline. (auto-dsg)

It's sitting on about ~90,000km's and looks like quite a good deal. (paper work is done, just waiting on the existing finance to be cleared and official title to be handed down by the bank to the seller)

So as I'm new to owning a car, and most family/friends I know don't know much about diesels, I thought I'd get some help from here.

1. What are some common things I should check to indicate something bad may be imminent(ie; DSG is dying etc.)
2. I've read a bit about 'running in' and warming up diesel cars w/ turbos but there seems to be a lot of debate etc over what the correct practice is for driving a diesel. Can someone clear up how to warm up before I start driving it, and how I should be driving it (ie; High Revs etc)
3. Anything else that can help me take care of the car itself would be great ! (Assume I know nothing )

Thanks for the help !
(ps; I have gone through the stickies etc. but there are lots of conflicting views so I wanted to see if I could get a more straight answer)

[Thesnowburner]

If your not a hoon, then just drive it like you would drive any other car. I jump in ours wait for glow light to go out and start and then start driving. Make sure you have good eyesight to read the stupid dip stick oil level when you check it. Otherwise drive and enjoy.

[Amalgam]

Congrats on buying your first diesel,

As you stated there are differing views on how to drive and maintain a diesel, just as there are differing views on driving a petrol car.

My personal routine is:

Start the car first and let it idle while I use the seat belt, set the mirrors and generally get comfortable. Normally a couple of minutes just to get the engine warm up a bit.

Drive off "normally" at suburban speeds for 5-10kms to allow the engine and dsg to reach operating temps before a more spirited / freeway style of driving.

Make sure that the servicing is is up to scratch and the correct oils have been used ( VW 504/507 ). Always service it at a independent VW specialist or dealer.

There is also a lot of discussion on the type / brand of diesel to use. I personally use BP Ultimate or Caltex Vortex. It costs a few cents more but I believe it is worth it. There are plenty of threads for you to read.

Enjoy.

[Ryeman]

Congrats on buying your first diesel,

As you stated there are differing views on how to drive and maintain a diesel, just as there are differing views on driving a petrol car.

My personal routine is:

Start the car first and let it idle while I use the seat belt, set the mirrors and generally get comfortable. Normally a couple of minutes just to get the engine warm up a bit.

Drive off "normally" at suburban speeds for 5-10kms to allow the engine and dsg to reach operating temps before a more spirited / freeway style of driving.

Make sure that the servicing is is up to scratch and the correct oils have been used ( VW 504/507 ). Always service it at a independent VW specialist or dealer.

There is also a lot of discussion on the type / brand of diesel to use. I personally use BP Ultimate or Caltex Vortex. It costs a few cents more but I believe it is worth it. There are plenty of threads for you to read.

Enjoy.

The 'supermarket' fuel is cheaper and also branded as Vortex diesel - do you not believe it?

[Amalgam]

The 'supermarket' fuel is cheaper and also branded as Vortex diesel - do you not believe it?

Granted, it could be all smoke and mirrors.

I believe that both supermarket brands sell fuel as a loss leader and make their profits from the in store sales ( bread, milk, cigarettes etc ) and the cross subsidies from your groceries. While the non supermarket version is more reliant on selling fuel and is priced accordingly.

[Ryeman]

Granted, it could be all smoke and mirrors.

I believe that both supermarket brands sell fuel as a loss leader and make their profits from the in store sales ( bread, milk, cigarettes etc ) and the cross subsidies from your groceries. While the non supermarket version is more reliant on selling fuel and is priced accordingly.

I agree- the 'extra' 4c off is a con if you buy their overpriced stuff.

[gldgti]

I think VW give the best advice about how to drive their cars in the user manual!

Only my opinion, but I think Amalgam's approach is a bit overly sympathetic. Modern synthetic oils have good cold performance, theres no real reason to 'warm up' the car for longer than a few seconds before moving off. Sure, you dont drive it like you stole it until its actually warm, but the gentler you are, the longer it takes to warm up too.

My personal golden rules are:

> Regular oil change servicing with the correct oil
> good fuel only
> no thrashing until warm
> allow 30s of idle if you just get home after thrashing.

[Idle]

@Ryeman

And it's not always 4c off anyway — in my area the competition is often about the same, on occasion it's been cheaper.

Plus I've noticed lately that "Cheap - Cheap" has been morphing into "Dear Oh Dear!"

[Ryeman]

@Ryeman

And it's not always 4c off anyway — in my area the competition is often about the same, on occasion it's been cheaper.

Plus I've noticed lately that "Cheap - Cheap" has been morphing into "Dear Oh Dear!"

I've noticed that the general central vic region is quite competitive across all brands.

[bluey]

Morey's diesel smoke killer or some other cetane-improving additive will make it run a little quieter (and blow less smoke). Algicide in it is a useful preventive not in any pump diesel.

Caltex Vortex with biodiesel is good if you are in the limited area they have it (NSW - check with caltex).

i read somewhere than a firm right foot helps keep the turbo vanes moving.

Consider a Provent mod.

[Greg Roles]

Best advice is to avoid filling it up with petrol. That's bad.

[jets]

I read somewhere than a firm right foot helps keep the turbo vanes moving.

True, but can also carbon up the EGR, inlet manifold & cyl. head when mixed with crankcase blowby. Avoid too much right foot. Keep it below any black smoke appearing from the exhaust.

[DaSkwurl]

Keep it below any black smoke appearing from the exhaust.

Now maybe I'm not as flexible as you, but without sitting in neutral and static revving the engine till I see black smoke rising, how exactly would I do that?

Back to the OP's query;

As prev stated, good fuel is a must! I generally use BP and Shell. I'll put in Caltex if I must, however it'll only be small amount to tide me over. I made the mistake of putting in United diesel... Once.
You can hear the difference in the engine, it'll be substantially louder, and imo not run or start as well.

When taking off at the lights if I want to get ahead I usually wait till 2nd has engaged before I fully open her up to avoid wheel spin.

I don't know if this issue carrys over from the Passat to the Golf, but there can be issues with faulty park brake switches / controllers.
If you have a traditional hand break then no worries.

No doubt you'll have seen the enthralling discussions about fuel additives... I'm still undecided on this debate HOWEVER VW have now released their own additive. Just a thought.

Find yourself a good mechanic, my family are all vdub owners and only get our cars serviced and repaired through Burwin VW, they are expensive but have always looked after us very well.
That being said, there are many excellent independents that deal purely with VAG maintenance and are often a more cost effective choice and in some circumstances able to source parts a lot faster as they don't have to wait for them to be shipped from Singapore.

DIY - search out a copy of the repair manual for your car, trawl through page after page in the forums trying to find something possibly even closely related to your issue, ask in those same forums, Google, YouTube (sometimes the best resource as it shows you what to do (like how to replace the headlight bulbs in a mk4 golf without taking apart the front bumper)) and don't forget your local wreckers, not pick-a-parts or jollys, you want one that specialises in euro or vag cars. They're a wealth of information and when you break that part you thought you could fix yourself they'll happily tell you where you went wrong as you pay for a replacement part. (From personal experience it hurts when you end up having to pay a mechanic more to fix your car because you thought you could do it. Apparently they don't like cars arriving on tow trucks with a box of removed parts in the boot.)

Servicing, especially the majors and timing belt / water pumps are important. If you don't know when these things are due to be done, ask.
(FYI on the off chance your belt / pump haven't been done, it's due at 105,000kms or seven years. Mines due now and I'm getting a major service done as well and am looking at around $2200)

Lastly, modifications, if you decide to go down that path research, research, research!
If it's all too much to understand, ask in the forums and I'm sure the members of VWW will be more than happy to confuse you more... Eeerm I mean explain it to you.

or just babble on for a few paragraphs thinking they've been helpful as they post their reply... Like I'm about to

[unrealshots]

Our local caltex and shell servos are filled by the same United tanker for diesel...

We drive both our cars by getting in, start and drive... They are modern vehicles and shouldn't require babying

[jets]

Now maybe I'm not as flexible as you, but without sitting in neutral and static revving the engine till I see black smoke rising, how exactly would I do that?

Black smoke is easily seen at night with the headlights from the car behind. I live in the hills so every time I go to the burbs the engine works coming home uphill. Its very easy from experience to determine how much pedal I can use without black smoke appearing.
My recent EGR replacement [that was relatively carbon free] is testament that my driving style works.