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MK5 TDI Idling high

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  • #16
    Originally posted by lowtdi View Post
    yeah when the tuner asked i told him i definitely wanted egr coded out. such a good move. and no dpf, I'm one of the lucky ones ! no further mods needed haha!
    Tell me more about getting the EGR coded out please!
    MKV Sportsline Soot Belcher
    MKV Jetta FSI DSG

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    • #17
      Originally posted by Greg Roles View Post
      Yep, pretty likely. My TDI idles high from time to time without doing a regen, but I have messed with the engine so much, it could be anything. It is never an issue, but I your case I would put it down to the EGR, causes a lot of weird problems, gums up flaps, have you ever spray cleaned it out with intake cleaner?
      Haven't tried spraying intake cleaner. I was thinking of pulling it apart and cleaning it out though. Anyone have any tips on this any hidden screws etc.

      Regards

      Simon
      Last edited by nissman; 09-03-2012, 07:12 PM.

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      • #18
        Originally posted by lowtdi View Post
        yeah when the tuner asked i told him i definitely wanted egr coded out. such a good move. and no dpf, I'm one of the lucky ones ! no further mods needed haha!
        So ****ing over my DPF. Bloody light came on again today.
        Golf GT Sport TDI

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        • #19
          from what i understand about getting it coded out it was just a box they tickd while doing the revo tune. not sure about other tuners but its very possible as revo arent a HUGE name.
          how do you spray inlet cleaner guys,
          do you take the boost hose off the inlet flap motor and just squirt a bit in?
          or do you spray it up the top just after the map at that inlet?
          Scirocco R, APR 2+,VWR BBK,HP, QUAIFE, FORGE, VWR 18x9.

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          • #20
            Have taken apart the egr/intake flap assembly today to check it. Found it to be much cleaner than expected. I cleaned it wit a bit of wd40 I had handy and an air hose. The intake flap was checked by hand and moves freely from open to close. After reinstalling I checked whether the Intake flap is closing when ignition is turned on. I found it was only moving about 3mm when cycling between on and off.
            Can anyone tell me whether this is normal?? When the ignition is set to the on position(but not started) should the flap "completely" close, or only move a little bit like it is doing??










            Regards

            Simon
            Last edited by nissman; 10-03-2012, 10:38 AM.

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            • #21
              It should completely close and remain closed on ignition off, you hear it "buzz" for about 30 seconds post stopping, then it opens back up ready for next start. When idling it should be part open, and open right up with a rev. If it's not shutting that's not a major thing, more if it isn't opening.....still it could be throwing an error and thus the EGR is out, THAT will affect your idle / running....you're going to have to scan this, find a lappie or a buddy with Vag Com locally on here!!!

              ---------- Post added at 12:26 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:24 PM ----------

              Originally posted by asa572 View Post
              Tell me more about getting the EGR coded out please!
              It's something you ask the tuner to do, I'd expect anyone that has a decent diesel range of tunes would be able to do it, certainly Parso, Custom Code and Viezu can in my experience, no doubt others can too.
              2014 Skoda Yeti TDI Outdoor 4x4 | Audi Q3 CFGC repower | Darkside tune and Race Cams | Darkside dump pDPF | Wagner Comp IC | Snow Water Meth | Bilstein B6 H&R springs | Rays Homura 2x7 18 x 8" 255 Potenza Sports | Golf R subframe | Superpro sways and bushings | 034 engine mounts | MK6 GTI brakes |

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              • #22
                Originally posted by Greg Roles View Post
                It should completely close and remain closed on ignition off, you hear it "buzz" for about 30 seconds post stopping, then it opens back up ready for next start. When idling it should be part open, and open right up with a rev. If it's not shutting that's not a major thing, more if it isn't opening.....still it could be throwing an error and thus the EGR is out, THAT will affect your idle / running....you're going to have to scan this, find a lappie or a buddy with Vag Com locally on here!!!
                I have just given the car a drive and it now idles as it used to(between 820-840rpm). Still not sure about the intake flap though. I was only turning the ignition on/off and not actually starting the car. Can I pull the large main intake pipe from the bottom of the intake flap and start the car without any damage to the engine and check what position it is at when running?
                BTW there are no error lights up on the dash. Does this mean their wont be any error codes if checked by a VAGcom or can there still be errors even with no dash light errors shown?

                Regards

                Simon

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by nissman View Post
                  I have just given the car a drive and it now idles as it used to(between 820-840rpm). Still not sure about the intake flap though. I was only turning the ignition on/off and not actually starting the car. Can I pull the large main intake pipe from the bottom of the intake flap and start the car without any damage to the engine and check what position it is at when running?
                  BTW there are no error lights up on the dash. Does this mean their wont be any error codes if checked by a VAGcom or can there still be errors even with no dash light errors shown?

                  Regards

                  Simon
                  Not every code will set the ECM light on and stays on. But if the fault doesn't exist anymore, the car will drive normaly and codes stay in memory without any ill effect until cleared
                  Performance Tunes from $850
                  Wrecking RS OCTAVIA 2 Link

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                  • #24
                    From what I have been reading the intake manifold flap motor is there as an anti judder when turning off the engine. It closes upon turn off to kill the oxygen supply and then opens again after 3secs. If it fails in the open position it may just judder a bit upon turn off and has no effect on the running. When turning off the engine there is no noticeable difference in an increase of judder (it is smooth as it was when it was new). I will buy one of these obd2 boxes to read some fault codes though.

                    Does anyone have any suggestions on what to buy? I like the idea of these bluetooth ones here.
                    Bluetooth Scanner OBD2 OBD II Diagnostic Interface Scanner Fits Android Torque | eBay

                    Regards

                    simon

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                    • #25
                      Originally posted by nissman View Post
                      From what I have been reading the intake manifold flap motor is there as an anti judder when turning off the engine. It closes upon turn off to kill the oxygen supply and then opens again after 3secs. If it fails in the open position it may just judder a bit upon turn off and has no effect on the running. When turning off the engine there is no noticeable difference in an increase of judder (it is smooth as it was when it was new). I will buy one of these obd2 boxes to read some fault codes though.

                      Does anyone have any suggestions on what to buy? I like the idea of these bluetooth ones here.
                      Bluetooth Scanner OBD2 OBD II Diagnostic Interface Scanner Fits Android Torque | eBay

                      Regards

                      simon
                      I bought it just out of interest and for playing with. It's quite cool and goes well with my Galaxy Tab. I will check tomorrow morning how good is it for reading and resetting fault codes and let you know. Unless somebody let us know before that.

                      Definitally worth $30.
                      Performance Tunes from $850
                      Wrecking RS OCTAVIA 2 Link

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                      • #26
                        Originally posted by Transporter View Post
                        I bought it just out of interest and for playing with. It's quite cool and goes well with my Galaxy Tab. I will check tomorrow morning how good is it for reading and resetting fault codes and let you know. Unless somebody let us know before that.

                        Definitally worth $30.
                        ...and maybe not. It will not detect intermitent faults like over/under boosts. The faults reading capabilities are far from VCDS. I must say it is not reliable as the diagnostic tool.
                        Performance Tunes from $850
                        Wrecking RS OCTAVIA 2 Link

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