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Modshack experience & questions.

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  • #1

    Modshack experience & questions.

    Hi all,

    Today i received and installed my modshack intake on my MkV (see below).



    Installation was relatively simple but required some minor modding to fit the TDI. The modshack is not technically designed for TDI's and as such, does not include the vacuum connector that is on the stock system. To overcome this, I drilled and installed a vacuum connector (see below). It goes to the solenoid valve block so i cant tell what valve it goes to. Can anyone advise as to what this does? Do you think that it is ok how it is plumbed or should i use an elbow rather than a T piece connector? It was the only connector i had at the time...



    The car seems to breathe much easier and feels a bit snappier. My only gripe would be the occasional stutter at low speed. I suspect it is due to the possibility of sucking in hot engine air as, unlike the stock intake, it is not plumbed into the front bumper (see below).



    I haven't had a look at how Greg has done it yet but i plan on buying an aluminium tube and make my own plumbing (see below). Its actually for flues in fireplaces but it is essentially a thin aluminium tube that i hope to cut and bang so that the pod only draws in cold air from the front grill. Any thoughts on this?



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  • #2
    Very nice. I was the first to install one of these I'm Australia, assisting Rennenhaus and Modshack in working out if it were a viable product for the TDI.

    With dyno testing it proved to not increase power output but the smoothness in power delivery was very obvious.

    MKV TDI intake modification (Modshack prototype) - VWWatercooled Australia
    http://www.vwwatercooled.org.au/forums/f15/mkv-tdi-intake-modification-modshack-prototype-14111.html
    Cover all Type 1K based Golf and Jetta's


    Before



    After



    In the end I took it off due to the induction noise giving me a gripe, and then sold the car before I had a chance to put it back on. I'd do it again.

    My vac line did not have a t piece so can't offer up much help on that.

    Nice to see someone tinkering with a diesel again.

    Comment

    • #3
      Nice work. The small line is the turbo solenoid bleed line, and if you block it you will have all sorts of woe, as I did! It dumps the pressure on the negative side of the solenoid which actuates the VNT vanes in the exhaust turbine.

      Stuttering is a problem a few have reported, although I have not experienced the same. May be you lot in colder climates just get too much cold air for the MAF to cope with, a problem not so apparent in QLD. Making your own plumbing for the inlet is quite easy, and if you can get the scoop off the front of a Forge unit, would make it a lot simpler, not sure if they would sell you just the scoop. I made my own fiberglass front, but that's a major project to get right, messy too! Sealing the front is a great idea, but makes it even louder outside!

      Now you can pull the MAF grid out, and help the airflow a little more!
      Last edited by Greg Roles; 31-12-2011, 09:49 AM.
      2014 Skoda Yeti TDI Outdoor 4x4 | Audi Q3 CFGC repower | Darkside tune and Race Cams | Darkside dump pDPF | Wagner Comp IC | Snow Water Meth | Bilstein B6 H&R springs | Rays Homura 2x7 18 x 8" 255 Potenza Sports | Golf R subframe | Superpro sways and bushings | 034 engine mounts | MK6 GTI brakes |

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      • #4
        Originally posted by Greg Roles View Post
        Stuttering is a problem a few have reported, although I have not experienced the same. May be you lot in colder climates just get too much cold air for the MAF to cope with, a problem not so apparent in QLD. Making your own plumbing for the inlet is quite easy, and if you can get the scoop off the front of a Forge unit, would make it a lot simpler, not sure if they would sell you just the scoop. I made my own fiberglass front, but that's a major project to get right, messy too! Sealing the front is a great idea, but makes it even louder outside!

        Now you can pull the MAF grid out, and help the airflow a little more!
        At the moment, the car overboosts and stutters with a modified tune so i think the intake might be exaggerating an existing issue. Further investigation is required.

        Im trying to get a hold of a new MAF to test that if the stuttering improves, but even if its not, i wouldn't mind gutting it as suggested and a spare MAF would allow me to confidently do it.

        Next on the chopping block would be the solenoid valve block! In my first pic, you can see it to the left of where the battery meets the firewall. For some reason, VW decided to put all the valves in an interchangeable block. It would have been great if i could have jsut swapped the n75! The issue is that VW Aus wants $400+ for a replacement for the block.
        Last edited by getjet; 31-12-2011, 10:14 AM.

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        • #5
          Yeah my Modshack had a bit of a stutter when it was cold. You should de grid your MAF now you have a straight though airflow.

          That should do the trick.

          ---------- Post added at 12:43 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:41 PM ----------

          Also Forge won't sell you a metal mount. I've asked.

          Comment

          • #6
            Originally posted by benough View Post
            Yeah my Modshack had a bit of a stutter when it was cold. You should de grid your MAF now you have a straight though airflow.

            That should do the trick.

            ---------- Post added at 12:43 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:41 PM ----------

            Also Forge won't sell you a metal mount. I've asked.
            So by removing the grid in your MAF, your stutter stopped?

            Ive just tested the MAF based on the guide at Testing and diagnosing a bad MAF sensor on VW TDI

            First up was to rev it to 5.1k in neutral. It did it no problem but according to the website above, it could still be faulty.

            Second was to disconnect the connector. Took it for a drive and there was no stuttering. Power does not seem to be down but i don't really want to go WOT with the connector off. What are the consequences? I then put the connector back and drove the same route home. It stuttered. The interesting thing was that no engine lights came on at any point...

            Either way, i think replacing and de-gridding the MAF will be a good place to start.

            Comment

            • #7
              So you drove it without the MAF connected?

              Well I ended up on a BMC intake from a GTI and it didn't stutter but my de gridding was just a suggestion. It's worth a shot

              Comment

              • #8
                Originally posted by benough View Post
                So you drove it without the MAF connected?

                Well I ended up on a BMC intake from a GTI and it didn't stutter but my de gridding was just a suggestion. It's worth a shot
                Correct. For a couple of minutes it was disconnected but didn't push the car at all. No CEL and power appeared to be the same. Apparently, thats a sign of a faulty MAF...

                Comment

                • #9
                  Potetnially. I disconnected mine one day to see what happened and straight away it wasn't happy.

                  De grid it and if they fixes it great, if not then get a new MAF from ebay. Put the part number on the side of it into ebay and save money

                  Comment

                  • #10
                    After disconnecting the MAF a couple of times to test, there is indeed less power when disconnected. As such, at this stage I'm satisfied that my issues are not related to a faulty MAF. I plan on still trying to get a spare so that i can de-grid it and test.

                    Could a partially blocked EGR cause stuttering?
                    Last edited by getjet; 31-12-2011, 06:07 PM.

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                    • #11
                      Indeed, it could be - You should clean your egr and at the same time degrease a nd clean your inter cooler of oil and install an oil/air separator in the breather line so you reduce the gunk going through the system.

                      Comment

                      • #12
                        did you perhaps over oil the air filter? It could have covered the sensor in your MAF? Try getting some MAF cleaner and giving it a clean.
                        2007 Black Magic VW Golf GT TDi, Latte Leather, Sunroof, Bluefin Superchip, 18" Detroits, APR lower torque arm insert, APR Carbon Fibre Cold Air Intake system, GTi sideskirts & front lip, R32 Rear Bar, GTi Steering wheel, RNS-510,Infinity BassLink Subwoofer,stubby antenna, R8 Oil Cap, Golf R front calipers, slotted front rotors, ceramic brake pads, LITEC LED tail-lights, Dension Gateway Five, Rear Emblem Reverse Camera, H&R Ultralow coil-overs, Badge-less front grille

                        Comment

                        • #13
                          Originally posted by poyta View Post
                          did you perhaps over oil the air filter? It could have covered the sensor in your MAF? Try getting some MAF cleaner and giving it a clean.
                          Did not oil the filter that came with the intake. Doesn't appear to be the oiled type.

                          Replaced with stock intake for the time being until new parts arrive.

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