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If so ill pass on that motor and aim for the 2.0litre with 103kw (GT's are out of my price range unfortunately).
If you want more power (and torque!) out of the 103 kw engine there are plenty of options available. A simple tune takes the the 103 kw up around the power and torque figures of the 125 kw engine.
I preferred the dsg when I was test driving both. Lots of gear changes needed if you go manual!
I wouldn't say so, normal city driving only see's you really use the first 4 gears away. You can even take off in 2nd quite easily so can away get with only 2 changes if you really need. I always putter along at 60khm in fourth and with so much torque you don't need to down change to overtake. Some owners prefer to even stay in 3rd gear at 60khm to help with soot production. I've been driving manual all my life and I don;t really think I need to change more often now with my diesel than I did with my petrol cars before. If anything I'd say I change less because of all the torque.
2007 Black Magic VW Golf GT TDi, Latte Leather, Sunroof, Bluefin Superchip, 18" Detroits, APR lower torque arm insert, APR Carbon Fibre Cold Air Intake system, GTi sideskirts & front lip, R32 Rear Bar, GTi Steering wheel, RNS-510,Infinity BassLink Subwoofer,stubby antenna, R8 Oil Cap, Golf R front calipers, slotted front rotors, ceramic brake pads, LITEC LED tail-lights, Dension Gateway Five, Rear Emblem Reverse Camera, H&R Ultralow coil-overs, Badge-less front grille
Ok thanks guys for your input - and apologies for hijacking someone elses thread. I'll be test driving a few 2.0TDI's over the coming few weeks so ill see if i prefer the DSG or the manual with the diesel. I would prefer manual for "enjoyment" as well as reduced costs (servicing) but the DSG might be better match.
FYI - we test drove a Hyundai i30 last weekend and it was horrible. Totally gutless and cheap /nasty quality.
I would also like to test drive a Mazda 3 MZR-CD (2.0 litre turbo diesel) as well but they are few and far between. Not many of these around at all.
all right everyone i finally listened to everyones advice and got a provent. installed it today. its not actually screwed to anything its wedged in really firmly and it won't move so I'm okay with it. one day when i find a cold air intake i like that doesn't cost $400 dollars ( cough apr) ill mount is properly until then it'll do its job quite well. have a drain pipe with a tap on the end which is accessible by unscrewing the underbody tray. it seems to have fixed my idling problem which I'm stoked about. also fitted a leather centre console lid... nice little touch.
nice bit of insurance there for your ride. given the possible ongoing costs and power restrictions of clogged intakes and DPF, I think you made the right move.
yeah i guess,
how long until it will start to collect oil?
---------- Post added 12-12-2011 at 11:56 AM ---------- Previous post was 10-12-2011 at 09:36 PM ----------
last night the car threw a check exhaust emissions workshop light, i went out to dinner for a couple of hours came back and it was gone.
wouldn't a code normally need to be reset by vagcom?
also how long until it will start to collect oil does anyone know?
ALSO
what are people thought on getting mufflerectomy ++ custom down pipe fitted. would it make a noticeable power difference?
i did some reading and I'm not sure now..
apparently they can make the car hesitate when you accelerate from 1st gear..
and they really don't gain any power.
and i don't really care about the looks,
ill tell you what we could split shipping on,
i can get fk street lines for 320 a set, and 180 for shipping, so 500 landed, we could probably get them round 450 each landed if we got them together? or are you going higher end coils? i just want low.
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