Fuel type is it 95 or 98?

[chrisb123]

But the manual says 98 with no mention of 95
VW has just confirmed my 170k km car is using the old cam chain tensioner, so I guess we can close this thread cause the car (knowing my unlucky streak with this car) that it will explode as the tow truck driver drives it onto his truck

[Lucas_R]

But the manual says 98 with no mention of 95
VW has just confirmed my 170k km car is using the old cam chain tensioner, so I guess we can close this thread cause the car (knowing my unlucky streak with this car) that it will explode as the tow truck driver drives it onto his truck

Yes the cam chain tensioner was updated from around mid-2012 onwards, so any car built before this time has the old tensioner. I had to replace it on my Mk6 GTI which was a 2010 model too.

[Guest001]

But the manual says 98 with no mention of 95
VW has just confirmed my 170k km car is using the old cam chain tensioner, so I guess we can close this thread cause the car (knowing my unlucky streak with this car) that it will explode as the tow truck driver drives it onto his truck

Well put 98 in it then

[chrisb123]

Yes the cam chain tensioner was updated from around mid-2012 onwards, so any car built before this time has the old tensioner. I had to replace it on my Mk6 GTI which was a 2010 model too.

How much did that cost to replace?

[Lucas_R]

How much did that cost to replace?

It was about $1200 (done at local Audi dealership) and included the following:

- new upgraded tensioner
- multiple chain guides
- new timing case cover (old one gets damaged when removing so new one needs to be fitted)
- new dipstick tube (made of plastic and got damaged when removing timing case etc
- sealant / new bolts etc for timing case cover.
- Oil change (i provided the oil - the oil needs to be drained to do this job)

I was advised at the time that the timing chain itself did not need replacing, but always wished I had done it. For an extra $250-300 you may as well do the timing chain at the same time.

My car had about 58,000km on it at the time and was about 5 years old.

[brad]

My fuel flap decal says "Minimum 95 ron" I run 98. I have run 95 ron and the fuel economy is worse, so it works out similar cents/km.

I did run 91 once as the stupid dealer gave me a free tank of fuel as compensation for another stuff up. The difference in torque was unbelievable and fuel economy was affected by 15%.

We also run 98 in our 20yo mazda 323 as it goes 2-3 months between fills and fuel does lose octane as it ages.

[Guest001]

Well I have kept all my fuels receipts for 2 years and have filled with 95 or 98 depending on where i was at the time and my consumption varies between 9.2 and 10.88 over mostly the same sort of trips. Dont know which was which and is usually a mix of the two so a difference of 1.6 L per 100km isnt worth worrying about

[chrisb123]

Now that I finally got my car back, I can read the actual book that I got with the car, not some manual or online reference I found. It mentions all fuel variations 91,95 and 98 with no preference to any as it also mentions multiple engine types. It explicitly says to use what is on the fuel lid. So problem solved.
Now to fix the cam chain tensioner before the engine explodes this weekend and throws some rods and/or the entire crankshaft through the engine block and directly into the brand new mechatronics unit.

[Guest001]

Now that I finally got my car back, I can read the actual book that I got with the car, not some manual or online reference I found. It mentions all fuel variations 91,95 and 98 with no preference to any as it also mentions multiple engine types. It explicitly says to use what is on the fuel lid. So problem solved.
Now to fix the cam chain tensioner before the engine explodes this weekend and throws some rods and/or the entire crankshaft through the engine block and directly into the brand new mechatronics unit.

Dont use 91 or more than the tensioner will blow up

[chrisb123]

Dont use 91 or more than the tensioner will blow up

When you see a mushroom cloud this weekend you'll know the cause

[Guest001]

When you see a mushroom cloud this weekend you'll know the cause

We havent been joking but you do what you want you seem to know all about it despite the warnings in the thread

[brad]

Now that I finally got my car back, I can read the actual book that I got with the car, not some manual or online reference I found. It mentions all fuel variations 91,95 and 98 with no preference to any as it also mentions multiple engine types. It explicitly says to use what is on the fuel lid. So problem solved.
.

I don't think any VW engine has used 91ron for 20+ years. My 1997 2.0 NA Golf was minimum 95ron. Are you sure you weren't looking at MON or AKI octane ratings?

[chrisb123]

We havent been joking but you do what you want you seem to know all about it despite the warnings in the thread

I'm not joking either, says "fuel that is required" not "minimum but we recommend you use higher"

[Suncoaster]

Argument over; use 95 or 98 only; the flap decal say min 95. The underlined section in the manual refers to what range of fuels are available, and then directs you to the fuel flap for what your vehicle should run. Personally I use 98 whilst 95 would meet the minimum requirement. I prefer to take care of the engine and minimise risk. If you use 91 you will suffer reduced power and, in my view risk engine damage.Save on fuel and pay higher mechanical repair blls, as well as voiding warranty. -Cheers-John

[chrisb123]

I use 95, the only time I've ever used 98 is in my bike that needed 98 minimum. It was very annoying when riding out in the country