If you have the option to bore the 12mm 5x114, why not make then 14mm holes but in the 112 pattern, it almost lines up and you kill two birds with one stone
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5x114.3 onto a 5x112
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Wouldn't they need to be sleeved Otherwise would just be an elongated hole?Originally posted by dylan8 View PostIf you have the option to bore the 12mm 5x114, why not make then 14mm holes but in the 112 pattern, it almost lines up and you kill two birds with one stone
It's not a big deal to me about running wobble bolts was just thinking that stud idea could've been nifty.
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I'm from the generation that ran Falcon GT's and XU1 Toranas. Back then it was common to replace the factory steel wheels with alloy ones from aftermarket suppliers. Not once in the dozens of cars that me and my mates modified did we consider hubcentric rims, they weren't a concern back then. We just bought what we wanted and bolted them on. Some of the wheels I've fitted had a 5mm gap around the hub but sat flush and the wheel bolts kept the wheel centered and on tight.
We never had wheels falling off or shearing studs and we ran some pretty quick cars. My brothers Torana did 150 mph down Conrod Straight in a club event and a mates track car did 170+, all without hubcentric rims. I ran a Bolwell Nagari with a 351 for years and it never had wheel problems with any of the sets of wheels I fitted.
The reason I'm posting this is to remind you that this is the real world we live in. All the doom and gloom people who tell you that you can't do this and can't do that seem to live in a world of strict regulations and stories they've picked up from the internet. Wheel studs don't shear off unless they are already damaged (previous collision or removed with a hammer by an idiot or years driven on bumpy dirt roads etc). Plus you have 5 per wheel, some of our cars were only 4 stud.
Do what you want to do, you'll soon know if it doesn't work by the feeling of the car when it drives. If it's as smooth as silk then there's no problem and you're going to check your work every now and then aren't you.
If anyone is thinking of writing a rebuttal and mentions some of the things we did wrong in the 70's (thalidomide, no seatbelts, Ozzy Osborne) and then relates it to my comments please don't bother posting. I'm talking only about wheels and real life experiences.
Cheers
PaulLast edited by sports racer; 05-04-2014, 11:13 AM.1978 MK1 2.0 16v http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...-46488-70.html
1991 MK2 GTI 2.0 8v, white (RIP) and it's red replacement http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...gti-42078.html
1997 MK3 CL http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...ml#post1292061
2001 & 2002 Bora 4motion. http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...st-123823.html
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its not the hubcentric ring that is the problem Sports racer it would just centre the wheel over the hub due to the offset in the studs and wheels pulling the wheel sideways as you tighten the bolts up, I remember holden people I think it was breaking studs by using the old wheels on newer cars or visa versa(From memory they changed the stud pattern every so slightly just like the above)
but as said, the wobble bolts probably work fine to fix the issue.. but I would make sure you do heaps of research of the cons of such a product as it is still putting lateral torque on the bolt.
are you taking the car on the track?
can you not get those wheels in the correct pattern?
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As sportsracer said, in practical reality, no hub centric rings, tuv approved wobble bolts and spacers; these should not cause safety issues unless they are already damaged or incorrect torque or the bolts used are too short or even incorrect thread size.
But given there are so many people doing things without sufficient common sense, it is obviously easier for the govt to put a blanket ban. These law makers some dont even see car workshops! Like some health minister who has never worked in hospitals!
Hence with all the regulations we live with, it pays to do things within the legal boundaries. Or at least be aware of it and accept the risks
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