Where to tap power in a T5GP

[The_Hawk]

So... I'm attempting to hardwire in a dashcam into the van and have run into a small problem. Ordinarily the cigarette lighter socket is switched... but not in the vans it seems.

So I'm looking for a switched power line I could tap into but am failing miserably. I'd happily accept some guidance if someone could point me to a wire I could tap...




Plan B was to tap something at the fuse box, but I'm not entirely sure how to get behind it. Which leads me to plan B option 2.

Use a piggyback fuse, which has me wondering and I want to get a second opinion before I go ahead with this.



So my understanding is that the BOTTOM of the fuse goes to the device and the top is the power supply (with the fuse in between).

By using two spade connectors in this picture, I have put a fuse inline where it is supposed to be.

Then by adding in an extra wire to the BOTTOM of the socket I'm essentially adding extra load across the normal 10A fuse?? Correct??




If I was to swap the two connectors around, am I right in saying I would then end up with a normally fused connection for that socket but a complete unfused additional line?

If my assumption is correct, could I then simply add an inline fuse to that new line I'd just tapped in and essentially create a whole new circuit? Is there any issue with doing this? (again it's for a charger for a dash cam, which would be a maximum of 2.1A @ 5v so not a huge load).

I'm assuming this is just a distribution block and I'm essentially doing something similar to adding a new fuse properly (from behind) but a little hacky and on the front?


for what it's worth, I'm looking at using fuse position #10 if that makes any difference at all: 10-Fuse -10 A- Intermittent wiper switch -E22- 15- Rear wiper switch -E34- -Intermittent wiper regulator -E38-

http://www.vwwatercooled.com/forums/f136/t5-essentials-september-2009-fuses-location-64343.html#post736102

[Guest001]

That's a rough as guts way of doing it .

Go to Jaycar and ask them for part no SF 5119 or SF 5120 First is a mini fuse and other is a full size one. Both have a wire soldered onto them with a bullet socket on the end Also buy Part PS 2003 ciggy socket and solder a pair of wires onto it. Centre positive

Find a spare socket on the fuse board that is switched by the ign Put the fuse u bought in there and connect the ciggy socket to it and a screw on the body for an earth.
Plug the camera plug into it as u would in usual ciggy socket. Run the wires up the A pillar and along the front of the roof lining

That's it Have done 6 cameras like that.

[The_Hawk]

I already have those parts, I grabbed a pile of things so I could test a couple of options. I was going to use the SF5110 to piggyback off an existing 10A then add in an extra dedicated inline fuse too.

SF51xx are fuses someone have drilled/melted/cut and tapped a wire into it. This makes them single use fuses and essentially they do exactly the same things I have done but you have to chuck them when they blow. In my build you can just replace the fuse itself. It's only fractionally neater (or less ruff as guts).

As for finding a spare socket. I would love to, but there are literally none. Every blank space has no contacts in it or I would already be using one

Long story short, I have somewhat limited options here and figure adding in a new circuit using a spade is about the only option I have short of removing the entire fuse box and building back in an additional fuse holder. (Something I can't quite see how to do)


edit: I forgot to add, I've already got and wired up the ciggy socket too. It's all neatly soldered and heat shrunk. This is all about getting some switched power to that socket.

[The_Hawk]

On a side note, you should see the butchery that is the radio install in this van done by "the professionals". So much tape... so much hacking. I've cable tied up all non used wires, heat shrunk the connections that were taped (half the tape had fallen off) and generally tidied things up. It's still a bit of a mess, but at least it's now a somewhat neat mess

[Guest001]

I already have those parts, I grabbed a pile of things so I could test a couple of options. I was going to use the SF5110 to piggyback off an existing 10A then add in an extra dedicated inline fuse too.

SF51xx are fuses someone have drilled/melted/cut and tapped a wire into it. This makes them single use fuses and essentially they do exactly the same things I have done but you have to chuck them when they blow. In my build you can just replace the fuse itself. It's only fractionally neater (or less ruff as guts).

As for finding a spare socket. I would love to, but there are literally none. Every blank space has no contacts in it or I would already be using one

Long story short, I have somewhat limited options here and figure adding in a new circuit using a spade is about the only option I have short of removing the entire fuse box and building back in an additional fuse holder. (Something I can't quite see how to do)

most cameras have a fuse in the plug anyway so as its usually 2 amps it will blow long before the 5110. I haven't had one blow so far.
A better idea would be to use the 5110 or whichever and plug your line fuse in the photo into the bullet socket. then you will have the original the line fuse and the one in the camera plug.
The way you have it is somewhat unsafe with spades jammed into the fuse sockets. should they move they could short.
Not my idea of a safe circuit im afraid.
Looking at the pics there seems to be plenty of spare sockets below where you have connected the wires. Any spare ones in VW seem to have a clip on one side even if there is no circuit there I have found several in my cars, both switched and permanent power.

After all you only need power on one leg of a 5110 for it to work

[The_Hawk]

I totally understand what you are saying and I have checked *every* socket and none have even one leg for me to use. I'll go back over them all again to double check I haven't missed one, but I've been over them all once already.

I'd already checked the fuse in the charger, and you're right it's 2A (Fast blow 250V 2A glass fuse).

Assuming I can't get a new dedicated line somewhere (ie no spare [working] sockets) I'm a little concerned that the extra load on any given circuit would be too much for the stock fuse and might cause me to loose something at an inopportune time.


The unsafeness of two spade connectors. Theoretically all a fuse is a couple of space connectors anyway, although I concede that
I'm adding a little extra weight and leverage for them to pull loose, it's minimal, but it's something. That said, I could retain the socket easily so as to remove as much as possible.





Lastly, I could flip the 5110 upside down effectively creating an unfused line. It's neater, less likely to fall out and I could then simply put the inline fuse off the new power line (which only adds to the 2A fuse in the power adaptor). The only shortcoming with this concept is that *IF* that fuse ever blows I have to have a spare 5110 on hand rather than a standard one.

[Guest001]

The spades can twist and touch at the bottom if twisted and a fuse is solid and both legs can never touch In the Polo and the Passat the top of the spare fuses have power in all the unused ones but you need a fine probe to get right down to the metal.
Turn the ignition on and test each one If and when u find one turn the ign off and see if power goes off.

Otherwise I would spend an extra $6.95 and buy a spare 5110 LOL

Always remembering a fuse is there to protect the car from the accessory not the other way around as a lot seem to think.

So if you put the 5110 upside down (as in wire on the hot side) and whatever is on the other side, if the fuse blows it would have anyway as the camera wont affect it.

[The_Hawk]

Well yeah. it's not exactly going to break the bank now is it.

Technically what I want is this:
Double Blade Fuse Socket Wire Tap - Jaycar Electronics

It piggy backs in a dedicated (and separate) fuse circuit in one neat little package. (which is essentially what I'm going to be making up).

As for checking the sockets, I literally hooked the multimeter up to the socket on the 5110 and plugged it into each socket with the ignition on. None of them offered any resistance (ie no legs to grab them) nor did they light up the multimeter. (it was grounded elsewhere and I was reading off the top (unfused) side so only needed that single leg. No dice.
But they don't have them in stock currently at my local. This is

[Peter Jones]

Have you had a look under your seat?

If your van is fitted with the interface plugs I can supply the connectors.

https://www.volkswagen-vans.co.uk/me..._interface.pdf

[The_Hawk]

So.... lets start this over.

1. Upsidedown 5110 which keeps the original 10A circuit + gives me a new wire on the hot side of that socket.
2. Inline fuse on that hotside wire which then leads to a new ciggy socket. This then gives me a dedicated fuse for whatever gets plugged into that socket.

I'm now left with two independent lines, both of which are fused separately and everything should work just fine and dandy.

Am I missing any issues?

[Peter Jones]

Does your T5 have the interface plugs?

The Amaroks all have them and it's a much easier way to hook stuff up.

You can get ignition and battery from the plugs and they already have fuses.

I've got the plug housings to just straight into the connectors without having to tap the fuses.

[Umai Naa!!]

Have you had a look under your seat?

If your van is fitted with the interface plugs I can supply the connectors.

https://www.volkswagen-vans.co.uk/me..._interface.pdf

Worth looking into.

There's enough pin-outs there to cover most accessories. Bonus is that whatever you wire in, won't upset any control modules.

[Umai Naa!!]

The interface 'module' (a bunch of female connectors), is under the passenger's seat.