Planning a nice audio upgrade for RNS510 in Octavia

[wfdTamar]

2008 Skoda Octavia wagon with factory 8 speaker kit and an RNS510 I installed.

Got a bit carried away and bought a few things (as you do). Planning a Dynamat sound deadening 10455 kit (should be able to do heaps with that lot (added later - not that much as it happens). Used 2 kits to do the whole car right from tailgate to firewall. Another 4 sheets to do the doors. Also will be doing Dynaliner.

Bought:
JL Audio CL441DSP CleanSweep (not strickly required, but apparently it cleans up the factory audio and then 'tunes' it for the car - summit like that). (decided not to get that. Instead getting the unit below*)

'JL Audio CL441DSP CleanSweep OEM Audio Interface: The CleanSweep uses a 32-bit digital signal processor to remove the factory adjustments, then sends your external amplifiers a perfectly clean signal. The CleanSweep connects to your factory radio's speaker wires, then takes the output of your factory radio and eliminates the peaks and valleys of the preset equalization, leaving a pure, unadulterated signal for your aftermarket amplifiers, speakers, and subs to work with. Since the CleanSweep attaches to the speaker wire outputs of your factory radio, it doesn't interfere with any factory radio functions. Once you've connected it, pop the included CD into your stereo, and the CleanSweep corrects the equalization in as little as 20 seconds. You don't have to adjust anything - the CleanSweep utilizes its built-in 120-band digital equalizer automatically, without the need for external control devices. If you choose, you can still use the factory radio's volume, treble, and bass controls as well.'

Polk Audio PA D4000.4 4 Channel Amplifier
PA D4000.4 - Amps | Polk Audio®


Polk Audio MM6501 front speakers
MM6501 - Car | Polk Audio®


Polk Audio MM5251 rear speakers
MM5251 - Car | Polk Audio®


No sub as I'm not into heap big wampum. I'm going for clarity and quality rather than volume.

What I'd like is a section of wiring with an RNS510 type connector on each end so I can add the amp without having to cut the cars wires. Just wire the amp and JL doo dah into it and use the cars existing speaker wires (if they're beefy enough and don't have special connectors at the speaker end). If I buy one made for adding an MDI to the RNS510 like below, get rid of the MDI stuff:

Wiring Harness VW Media IN MDI FOR RNS510 RCD510 RNS315 | eBay


*decided not to get the JL Dudio Cleansweep. Instead getting a:

Rockford Fosgate 3sixty.3 processor which seems to do what the Cleansweep does plus you can plug it into a computer and equalise the stereo to suit your setup/needs.

3SIXTY Digital Processors - 3SIXTY.3 - Rockford Fosgate®

Also decided kaanage below was right and I should get a sub. So got a:

Polk Audio MM840 8"
MM840 - Car Subwoofers | Polk Audio®


Polk Audio PA 1000.1 amp (overkill for that sub, but it was going cheap(ish))
PA D1000.1 - Amps | Polk Audio®



Various wiring kits, Dynamat and things from here:

Car Audio Accessories - Ryda

Elite Electronics, Welcome to our Online Store


Most of the Polk Audio stuff was refurb off the Polk ebay site. All of it looks new.

Added photo's in a post on the next page.

[kamold]

You don't need a line level converter (which I assume is what the 'Cleansweep' is (unless you need to run a trigger from the LOC to the amp in order to turn it on...most amps these days can trigger from an output from just the speakers)
You can set the RNS to line level balanced output by changing the settings via VCDS.

You can certainly make up a wiring harness to add the amp in without splicing.
You could buy something like this and cut it up to splice in the amp connectors as required.
There is a basic guide here that outlines the steps somewhat...

Enjoy the upgrade I haven't done dynamat because I'm lazy, but am relatively happy with my budget upgrade.

[wfdTamar]

It's not just a line level converter (anyway, I think the amp could do that), but corrects the factory radio output to give a nice clean flat input for the amp. Explained in the first ten minutes of this

JL Audio CleanSweep® OEM Interface Product Tutorial - YouTube

[kamold]

From their blurb:
'Unlike primitive line-output converters that only reduce the level of factory audio signals, the CleanSweep® CL441dsp employs a powerful DSP (Digital Signal Processor) to automatically analyze the frequency response of a full-range factory audio signal and then applies 30 bands of powerful equalization to each channel. This counteracts any factory equalization and provides a clean, flat signal for your aftermarket amplifiers and speaker systems to sound their best.'

So its a LOC converter with a DSP. At the end of the day its designed to turn a speaker level unbalanced output into a line level output (with some fancy processing thrown in) which is likely superfluous when the head unit is capable of outputting line level out.

You'll have to do some testing and let us know your findings. Test with the RNS running speaker level outs through the Cleansweep, then with RNS outputting line level out through the Cleansweep, lastly without the cleansweep and RNS set to line level out.

[dArK5HaD0w]

What I'd like is a section of wiring with an RNS510 type connector on each end so I can add the amp without having to cut the cars wires. Just wire the amp and JL doo dah into it and use the cars existing speaker wires (if they're beefy enough and don't have special connectors at the speaker end).

hope this helps.....RNS 510 Pin Assignments

[kaanage]

No sub as I'm not into heap big wampum. I'm going for clarity and quality rather than volume.

Done properly, a sub will add clarity and quality as well as extension and increased power handling. By properly, I mean the bass being filtered away from the 'normal' speakers and redirected to a sub that is set at the same output level as the main channels over the crossover range.

Subs get a bad reputation because people set them up to run at excessive levels and without rolling off the main channels so there is a massive hump due the overlap.

The Cleansweep looks like a pretty good idea if the factory head unit is heavily EQ'd but does anyone know if that's the case with the RNS-510? If the head unit's output is pretty flat, then it'd be a waste of money. It's too bad they haven't incorporate LPF and HPF filtering around 100Hz for a sub signal output (in fact, they've done the opposite with the summing CL-SSI module)

[wfdTamar]

I asked JL Audio if the factory equalisation would be on the line level output and they don't know - said to test it with an RTA (Real Time Analyser - like a graphic equaliser display). Free software for that available.

Considering changing the Cleansweep for the Fosgate 3sixty3.3 - it seems to do what the Cleansweep does plus you can adjust the equalisation after - put your own 'factory equalisation' in by connecting it to a computer. $569 compared to $338.

[wfdTamar]

Cancelled the Cleansweep and getting the Fosgate - so now I can add a sub if I want. Considering one of these for the left rear boot 'pocket'. Probably won't have room under the seats as the amp and Fosgate will most likely go there.

TS-WX210A Space-saving Amplified Sub (150W - 2010 Model) - Pioneer Car Speakers, Sub


Means I don't have to have something permanently in there if I want the space and since I don't want huge bass that would seem to be enough.

[wfdTamar]

Ok, now I'm getting a Polk Audio PA D1000.1 amp and MM840 sub (Polk refurbs, so not ridiculously expensive).

[kaanage]

That's WAAAAAY more power (amp) and power handing (sub) than you need but if it's cheap then it won't hurt either

The Fosgate DSP module looks awesome

[wfdTamar]

Yes, I know it's overkill, but the next cheapest (only like $80 cheaper) were in the lower range of stuff. The whole setup is ridiculously expensive for my needs (evean at refurb prices), but I get into tinkering mode and have found in the past when faced with 'that'll do' and top of the range, the latter is more satisfying.

Here's Polk Audio's refurb ebay page - not always the cheapest around, but worth a look.

http://stores.ebay.com.au/Polk-Audio-Direct

[wfdTamar]

Rockford Fosgate 3sixty.3 can go under the passenger seat, the two amps won't fit so have to go in the boot, left side for the amps and right for the sub. Bought 12mm MDF to make a sub box into the cubby hole. I figure this is easier than the fiberglass method.

Going to Dynamat Extreme and 1/4" DynaLiner the whole car - as near as $1000!

In the wagon sound deadening thread:

http://www.vwwatercooled.com/forums/f149/octavia-wagon-sound-deadening-57421-9.html#post1035329

[readerr0r]

Just FYI, I used a generic VW T harness for my amp install.

CT10VW01 Volkswagen Parrot SOT Lead Bluetooth T Harness CAR ISO Wiring Adaptor | eBay

The brown connector has all the speaker outputs, one side is the radios output, the other goes to the speakers. You can even buy extender cables up to 5 meters. I was able to wire up my amp with zero damage to factory wiring.

[wfdTamar]

Even better I got this one ($28 shipped)

BLAUPUNKT- EUROPEAN THA/PnP ADAPTOR CABLE 7 607 622 016 001

Blaupunkt European THA PNP Adaptor Cable 7 607 622 016 001 | eBay

[wfdTamar]

Photo's of the original speakers and upgrade in progress:












Original speakers front and back. The bigger ones are fixed in solid plastic surrounds that move it out from the door 60mm front, 40mm rear. The tweeters are mounted by three points you can cut through with a sharp blade.