Auto-Polar FIS+ Advanced - Complete Guide

[Orrgazmo1986]

Auto-Polar FIS+ Advanced - Complete Guide

All good now went to my mechanic and he used a ball joint pulley to take it off, he said vw are a PITA to do simple things like this.

[Orrgazmo1986]

Auto-Polar FIS+ Advanced - Complete Guide

Not all good after all, reinstalled the wiper arm and then realizing
I put the left on the right and right on the left lol now can't get them off till tomorrow when my mechanic shop is open lol

[tigger73]

Not all good after all, reinstalled the wiper arm and then realizing
I put the left on the right and right on the left lol now can't get them off till tomorrow when my mechanic shop is open lol

....but did you get it working?

[Orrgazmo1986]

Auto-Polar FIS+ Advanced - Complete Guide

Might also go down to the local supercheap to see if I can source the control arm removal tool thingy. If its not too pricey will buy one, so if anyone is reading this in the Newcastle area and needing to borrow it I am more than happy to give you a hand or you can borrow the tool too. Still playing around with the parameter options. What do other people set (screen1, 3 etc)? Also what's the best way to measure boost etc

[tigger73]

Might also go down to the local supercheap to see if I can source the control arm removal tool thingy. If its not too pricey will buy one, so if anyone is reading this in the Newcastle area and needing to borrow it I am more than happy to give you a hand or you can borrow the tool too. Still playing around with the parameter options. What do other people set (screen1, 3 etc)? Also what's the best way to measure boost etc

Good to hear you got it going after all that.

I have 5 screens set up. First screen has speed, RPM, fuel litres and oil temp, which I use most of the time. Then I have one screen with temps, one with torque/power, one with boost parameters and the last with a mix of others.

For details on the boost parameters please refer earlier post: Boost Pressure - Detailed Information

The boost data (and in fact all the engine parameters) is taken from the ECU and not a separate boost tap. So you'll only get the measurements from the existing sensors.

[Ferni]

Reposting here from the AutoPolar forum - hopefully this makes some sense:


TURBO PRESSURE parameter (extend info)

Hi to all AutoPolar users,

Due to receiving questions about this parameter, we will provide an explanation to try to clear all doubts.
If you have any other questions, please post all your concerns, and we will complete this FAQ.


How do I need to configure my PolarFIS to read turbo pressure correctly??

To make a proper turbo reading pressure, normally is not necessary to configure anything in your PolarFIS unit.
There is a configuration inside the unit that automatically selects the best option.
However, there's a few models in which this automatic function doesn't work correctly.
This guide will help you to identify if this is the case for you.

These are available options in the pressure configution menu:

- AUTOMATIC : PolarFIS will select the best option for your vehicle automatically. RECOMMENDED !! (by default)
- INFORT X1 : To obtain the turbo pressure from the infortainment bus.
- INFORT X2 : To obtain the turbo pressure from the infortainment bus. The reading is multiplied by 2 (only vehicles in which the bus only shows half pressure).
- DIAGNOSIS : To obtain the turbo pressure from the diagnostics bus, for vehicles that the other options don't work.


What values does the PolarFIS show in my screen ?? I not have idea ...

The value that PolarFIS displays is the result of substracting the barometric pressure from the boost pressure read from the bus.
This is due to the boost pressure sensor indicating the absolute pressure (BOOST+BAROMETRIC)


But, sometimes I see negative values, why does this happen??

Normally with the engine at idle, there must be some vacuum in the intake manifold, so tehe pressure reading will be negative (around -5 to -15 mbar or -0.07 to -0.2 PSI), this is normal.
However, in some models there's no negative readings and with engine at idle the reading is 0 mbar or PSI, we can't do anything about this because the data is read directly from the Diagnostics bus of the engine ecu.

A small negative reading as indicated is normal, however if you have a reading less than -100 mbar or -1.4 PSI it means that boost is not reading correctly.

In that case, you must enter in the Polar FIS configuration menu, and select SCREEN->VISUALIZATION->ADVANCED->BOOST OPTIONS and choose the option INFORT. x2.

This is due to in some cars, pressure read from infortainment is divided by 2.

If the problem persists or you have no reading of boost pressure, enter in the same menu and choose DIAGNOSTICS option.

Yeah I had found that but didn't explain which one is requested vs actual (with or without !)... pretty sure it's without.

Also saw boost hit 23+ PSI at a glance last night...

[tigger73]

Yeah I had found that but didn't explain which one is requested vs actual (with or without !)... pretty sure it's without.

Also saw boost hit 23+ PSI at a glance last night...

Requested is the "!boost" from memory.

[Gigitt]

Requested is the "!boost" from memory.

I concur.

[Martin]

My unit died this weekend - blue tooth would not work, left hand steering wheel buttons would not work, navigation would commence as per usual but no voice instructions during the journey and if you missed a turn there is no route recalculation - plus the entire RNS shuts down every ~20 minutes

Removing the Auto Polar FIS solved the problem (it was warm when I removed it)

It's a little disappointing, not even 12 months old

(So glad to have hands free phone working again)

[tigger73]

My unit died this weekend - blue tooth would not work, left hand steering wheel buttons would not work, navigation would commence as per usual but no voice instructions during the journey and if you missed a turn there is no route recalculation - plus the entire RNS shuts down every ~20 minutes

Removing the Auto Polar FIS solved the problem (it was warm when I removed it)

It's a little disappointing, not even 12 months old

(So glad to have hands free phone working again)

Is it dead or did it just get locked? Power cycle will generally solve this.

[zei20t]

remove the fuse. had a similar issue last weekend.

[tigger73]

Three ways to reset the FIS+:

1. Pull the connector off the FIS+ module and reconnect
2. Pull the fuse (F24) from under the hood
3. Disconnect the battery

I do the first as I have easy access to the module/connector.

If you ever have the problem where your radio does not switch off when you remove your key then you know that the FIS+ firmware has crashed.

If this ever happens, please make sure you reset the FIS+ and ensure radio powers off before leaving your vehicle as otherwise you may well come back to a flat battery.

Generally the later firmware versions are more stable (i.e. known bugs have been fixed). Though I am aware that some BT units can send commands/characters which upset the FIS+ (certainly used to be the case at least).

[zei20t]

I removed the battery. that way, everything gets a reboot.

[Martin]

Dam - I didn't think about a power off reset - I just removed it from the car

Live and learn I guess

[zei20t]

also might be worth performing a reset. not factory reset, but the user settings reset thing.