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Can you remind us again why you're removing the motor? New box and head, but I take it that's easier to do with the engine out? Or are there other fiendish plans in store?
Just easier to remove as an assembly. I also wanted to go over everything before it goes out on the track again. Found a few loose nuts and clamps and stuff that I wouldn't have spotted otherwise.
All I'm up to this time 'round is head, box and bigger chokes in the carbs, but it's never that simple of course. I spent a couple of hours today match porting the inlet manifold to the new head.
Carbs aren't so much of an issue. The extractors are one piece right back to the gearshift and they're clamped, not flanged so they're impossible to remove.
Of course the extractors foul the inlet manifold too and it takes an hour to unbolt all of that.
The alternator setup overhanges the the front chassis rail which stops me removing the motor downwards.
The lower stress bar has to come out, and there's a remote oil cooler to contend with.
Pulled the head apart today to clean out the galleries and de-coke the valves and chambers.
This head was rebuilt, ported and installed on a 2.0 that only ran for 60km before spinning a main bearing.
There's some scoring of the cam bearing journals . I polished them up and I think they'll be OK. I'll keep an eye on the oil pressure.
Springs seem heavier than stock and there's titanium retainers in there. 8mm stems too.
Inlet porting is pretty extensive, guide bosses have been completely removed in both inlets and exhausts.
One bearing cap had a hairline crack and snapped completely when I test fitted the cam. I've put another in there from a 2.0 head. (Not really ideal, I don't recommend it for you kiddies at home.)
Next time the head comes off I'll get the cam tunnel bored.
Gasket is a Group A motor sport gasket 1.4mm uncompressed compared to 1.6mm of the metal gasket I pulled out.
I replaced the outer CV boot and repacked the CVs today.
There was some other engine stuff to sort out as well.
When starting the car it will sometimes backfire which is not a problem in itself but the cabin fill with the uncombusted petrol. So I went looking for firewall holes.
There's gaps around the clutch cable dodgy repair, seam sealer fixed that.
There was also a gaping hole in the steering boot.
I replaced it and fabricated a new stainless steel heat shied.
The ram tubes were painted black when I got them and I never gave it a second thought. Turns out that the paint isn't petrol proof and has been coming off. I guess the motor's just ingested it.
I've cleaned the paint of a couple of them and they polish up OK so I'll leave them polished.
I've also increased the chokes from 32mm to 34mm to aid with the airflow. Torque was never an issue and I'd prefer a few more revs over low down torque I can't use.
By the way, Pete, did you Mic that tunnel on the cap you replaced to check for ovality? I would assume that it should be pretty close, within a couple of tenths, but i'd be wary of that...
By the way, Pete, did you Mic that tunnel on the cap you replaced to check for ovality? I would assume that it should be pretty close, within a couple of tenths, but i'd be wary of that...
Did the best I could with the tools on hand
I ran the cam in the tunnel with no lifters to check for binding and checked depth of cap from face to internal crown and across the diameter with a set of dial verniers.
Reminds me, I must go and get some plastigauge.
As I said, it's not ideal, should see me through the next season or until I get the other car on the track.
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