Cleaning out leaves from lower mudguard well...Golf Mark V and Mark VI, maybe others

[9inchRob]

The design of the lower windscreen area, where there is a lot going on, including the wiper mechanism is a "weak design" with regard to controlling the entry of leaves to the upper mudguard (fender for the Americans), and also to the firewall area.

There is a raised slotted "bar" in the black plastic panel running the full width of the car, but it seals up against the closed bonnet far better on the passengers side than on the drivers side. The clearance gets much wider progressively across the car, ending up probably 15-18 mm near the drivers side bonnet hinge, allowing plenty of leaves to enter , and then drop down either inside the car to the firewall, or to enter one of the many holes and other nooks and crannies. If to the mudguard it all collects at the bottom where you'll see it from the door hinge area when open, but it will be hidden by the plastic inner guard when viewed from the wheel arch.

I cleaned mudguard area, again, today after only a couple of months.

You do need to get down and undo the two Phillips head screws at the bottom of the guard, and ease out the plastic inner guard and get in there with your fingers.....

I've taken a picture, and you'll see how many leaves were there just after a couple of months.

These, of course, over time, if left in place decompose to acids, and will eventually rust the car, no matter how good VW are at applying rust proof coatings.



This is my first attempt at posting a pic so I hope it works.

I took the pic after I'd done the screws up again.

If you don't have them, you'll need to buy a set of Phillips hexagonal bars (metric I guess) and work out which one to use.

I have had my service guy blow out the leaves from the firewall at a few of my services. ( I change at least oil and filter at either 5,000 or 7,500 km). None of this 15,000 km for me.

[dylan8]

I found this when i had to remove the liner to install a new side indicator. my car being 10 years old it had all broken down, and you could almost see each of the 10 years through the cars life in different layers. bit scary.

[carcareproducts]

I could also suggest some strong acidic cleaner, and possibly taking your wheel off and doing the entire arch even with a brush.

That will remove everything thats there and bring it back to new!

[dylan8]

I could also suggest some strong acidic cleaner, and possibly taking your wheel off and doing the entire arch even with a brush.

That will remove everything thats there and bring it back to new!

Sweet. Thanks. Would that protect it from any more build up? is there something else we can apply?

[carcareproducts]

Sweet. Thanks. Would that protect it from any more build up? is there something else we can apply?

Dylan, under there not really to be honest..

More so because of all the chemicals/oils/etc we drive on daily that will fly on through etc. I usually blast underneath with the high pressure hose to clean off what can come off and yearly remove the guard as above.

[9inchRob]

As a metallurgist I would not be putting acids near the bodywork....Don't understand this... There is always residual acid left on the paint or other coating.

And I question high pressure anything to do with water and the bodywork as it forces water into joints where it was not meant to go.

Gentle tap water is quite enough to remove decayed vegetable matter from inside the guards, and nothing more is needed than the various coatings applied at manufacture. If you had the car from new and could be assured that it was still clean and dry there, more sealer coats could be added as protection.

It's a 10 minute job to undo both the screws both sides of the car, and get all the leaves out before they start to decomposes.

Every month if the car is outside a lot, or ever parked for 1/2 a day or more anywhere near trees I reckon.

Other mud should not be allowed to build up anywhere either, but just gently with water and a sponge is all it takes.

All "in my humble opinion", btw.

Rob

[carcareproducts]

As a metallurgist I would not be putting acids near the bodywork....Don't understand this... There is always residual acid left on the paint or other coating.

And I question high pressure anything to do with water and the bodywork as it forces water into joints where it was not meant to go.

Gentle tap water is quite enough to remove decayed vegetable matter from inside the guards, and nothing more is needed than the various coatings applied at manufacture. If you had the car from new and could be assured that it was still clean and dry there, more sealer coats could be added as protection.

It's a 10 minute job to undo both the screws both sides of the car, and get all the leaves out before they start to decomposes.

Every month if the car is outside a lot, or ever parked for 1/2 a day or more anywhere near trees I reckon.

Other mud should not be allowed to build up anywhere either, but just gently with water and a sponge is all it takes.

All "in my humble opinion", btw.

Rob

Thanks for the post Rob.

I would recommend only a non acid based cleaner (wheel cleaner for that matter) which is safe. But as mentioned i personally use a high pressure hose and just blast it all underneath. I wouldn't say use an acid based regularly however once a year on a "birthday" wash possibly an idea but diluted down if you haven't already purchased a pre-diluted mix.

I remember when i did the MK4, i could of made 2 small speed humps out of what fall through.